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Topic: Brakes Question

in Forum: C3 Body

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Brakes Question (1/5)
11/22/13 2:08pm

rmendoza
Former Member
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Colorado Springs, CO - USA

Vette(s):
'68 (2), '75 (4), '86, '90, '99, '00, '02. '98 (2), '06 (3), '10, '12 GS, '82 Collector Edition, '03, '90 C4 ZR-1, '14, '15

Joined: 10/11/2013
Posts: 109

I bought my '68 roadster about 3 months ago. My question existed then.

I'm coming from a 2012 Grand Sport with the 6 piston caliper brakes. When stopping my non-power brakes '68 I have to apply a lot of pressure. The pedal is close to the floor but not on it and hasn't gotten any worst. As I apply increased pressure the brake light in the speedometer comes on. As I come to a stop, it goes out or if I lighten the pressure on the pedal it also will go out.

I've had to shops inspect the brakes and both said the rears are new rotors, pads and calipers. The front brakes are not new but all within tollerance.

I use the trans to downshift and slow the car then apply the brakes which works ok. I'm concerned about:

1. The brake lite coming on and what that means.

2. Requirement for a panic stop situation

3. Does the cost for changing to a power brake booster inprove the brakes enough to justify the cost?

4. Is this all normal and just the level of braking efficiency that the non-power brake '68 corvette had.

5. Open to any suggestions and estimated cost of parts to make this stop like any car sold today. My minivan stops great.

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God Bless, rick

'75 Steel Blue Stingray Coupe

'75 Hot Red L82 Stingray Convertible

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Re: Brakes Question (2/5)
11/22/13 2:15pm

Adams' Apple

Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20128

The brakes need to be properly bled....it sounds like the system has some air in it. Do a search here for brake bleeding, and you'll find several helpful threads/posts on the subject of bleeding these dadburn things....it's a chore, but it can be done. Thumbs Up

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
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(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

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Re: Brakes Question (3/5)
11/22/13 5:25pm

Gunslinger
Former Member
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Frederick, MD - USA

Vette(s):
1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior

Joined: 9/8/2003
Posts: 3398

Yes...make sure the lines are properly bled. If you have no documentation otherwise, I would suggest replacing every rubber hose...it's not uncommon for them to deteriorate internally and cause problems.

Before bleeding, I would have the lines completely flushed and filled with fresh fluid. If anyone has mixed DOT5 silicone fluid with DOT3 or 4 mineral brake fluid, trouble could start as the two types are non-compatible.

An aside...if the brake light is illuminating, it's not for no reason. You might not have any visible leaks, but a caliper could be sucking air in rather than leaking fluid out. It happened to me.

Brakes are simply too important to not take proper care of them.

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Re: Brakes Question (4/5)
11/23/13 9:33pm

apasbigal
Former Member
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goldens bridge, NY - USA

Vette(s):
1972 T-Top 350 auto, matching numbers,Blue, ac

Joined: 11/3/2003
Posts: 498

Joel and Gunslinger are right on . My 72 acted the same , and lite coming on . After several false starts, I think I'm finally there. I had a collapsed hose, not visible to the eye, a caliper sucking air and a leak, All said and done , It still needs to be bled and bled again . It can be trying but keep bleeding. Even with 90% new parts , I still had to bleed the system several times. Big Al

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Re: Brakes Question (5/5)
11/25/13 12:44am

F4Gary

Gold Member
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Grapevine, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air.

Joined: 8/26/2006
Posts: 1409

Replace the rubber hoses with braided stainless steel lines and flush/bleed the heck out of them.

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