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Topic: More driver's side door issues

in Forum: C3 Body


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More driver's side door issues (1/7)
 10/7/12 2:36am
daveo76
Former Member

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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.


Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 857

I posted awhile ago about having to "shoulder bump" the door to get it to open from the inside.  I think my problems stem from the latching mechanism - now it won't close tight.  I have the entire latch ass'y out of the car now and am wondering what to do.  My guess is the problem lies with the plastic cam thingy that slides over the wide part of the latch pin and keeps the door tight.  The latch was holding the door closed, just not tight, so that tells me that the metal part of the latch was properly secured to the narrow part of the pin.  

So does my hypothesis sound correct?  If so, is that plastic part of the latch replaceable or "fixable"?  Should I just soak the whole ass'y in cleaner, grease, re-install and see what happens?  Looks like some of the vendors have an entire new ass'y for $100 or so, maybe that will be my best bet.  

Sigh.... It never ends.....Cry


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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Re: More driver's side door issues (2/7)
 10/7/12 8:11am
eddie20875Lifetime Member
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Lanoka Harbor, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1975 metallic blue coupe with t-tops,L48, t/t steering, black leather interior. 1990 L98, white/red leather interior, auto,a/c


Joined: 12/21/2006
Posts: 828

if your striker has the plastic sleeve on the striker that is worn that would certainly cause the problem. auto stores usually have replacement strikers.

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Re: More driver's side door issues (3/7)
 10/7/12 8:29am
lukesvetteLifetime Member
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HOWELL, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.


Joined: 5/18/2004
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First try cleaning and re-lubing the latch mechanism. All those years of dust, dirt mixed in with the layers of grease just might have everything bound up.

I did mine after the car was repainted. Soaked the mechanisms with brake cleaner (FAR AWAY FROM THE CAR) and then washed in a tub of hot soapy water and then blew everything dry. A coat of fresh white lithium grease made everything work smoothly. Thumbs Up

Good Luck
Re: More driver's side door issues (4/7)
 10/7/12 1:19pm
Jaws79Lifetime Member
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Sykesville, MD - USA

Vette(s):
1979 Corvette Coupe Corvette Light Blue Midnight Blue interior Mirrored Glass T-tops


Joined: 4/27/2008
Posts: 4238

Check the striker bolt, too. Mine was slightly bent (not enough to notice) and caused the door to not open and close properly. Just a thought!
 
Barry
 
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Re: More driver's side door issues (5/7)
 10/8/12 2:04am
daveo76
Former Member

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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.


Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 857

Update: I have a fully functioning driver's side door again!  I took the latch out and cleaned the heck out of it, lubed it with white lithium and put it back in and it works.  No need to shell out that $100 at least.  Barry and others that mentioned the striker bolt: thanks.  There were/are some problems with that, too.  I compared it with the one on the pass side and lo and behold, it's completely missing the metal bushing that the pass side one has.  It also had some sharp edges that I filed off.  The missing bushing doesn't appear to be prohibiting proper operation of the door, but I am going to order one tonight.  That and some replacement anti-rattle bushing thingys for all the control rods in there.  That door has always sounded like it's going to shake apart when I close it, any thoughts of ways to quiet down all the rattles?  I know they're not all due to the control rods since it still rattled when I closed it with all of them removed.  

Thanks again for the advice on this one.  I'm always glad to make an original part work right again rather than buying a new one (that might even be made in China).  




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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Re: More driver's side door issues (6/7)
 10/8/12 1:04pm
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20129

Power windows, perhaps? If the bracket for the window motor breaks(and they all do), the motor will rattle something fierce when closing.




http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette?frame=4.1540


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Re: More driver's side door issues (7/7)
 10/9/12 12:41am
daveo76
Former Member

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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.


Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 857

I'll have to dig into that and see....eventually.  For now I was just glad to get it all put back together.  Still have some good dry driving weather here in the Pacific NW, got to take advantage of it before it's gone.  

Thanks, Joel, and everyone else!


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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