Gettin' ready for my first show in a few weeks. I am looking for a few tips on cleaning the exterior - clay bars, wax, etc. I was told to avoid wet washing the car too much - since I only drive it on nice days it does not really get dirty. Also, what is the best spray on wipe of wax to use for the car? Any other tips would be welcome - i did read about using the Pledge in the engine compartment - sounds crazy!

Many here swear by the clay bar method. I need to try that myself, although it might be tough with my decals.

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I personally love meguiar's number 7 polish. Afterwards I use the yellow wax. You can use a clay bar before using the polish, but if the car is rarely used, I doubt you would need it. Kathy

Heres the prob...  You need a clean car, and I mean a clean car to clay/wax/polish etc...  WATER is your enemy only if not dried.  The clay bar needs a lube to work(it comes with it) THEN you have to rewash the car.  I have had EXTREME success  including best paint (8 years old!) etc using this method

[QUOTE=Rob Riz]Gettin' ready for my first show in a few weeks...... - i did read about using the Pledge in the engine compartment - sounds crazy! [/QUOTE]

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MICK - C3VR Lifetime Member #113

First step would be a good (and very wet) wash with a car wash soap and microfiber washmitt.  I  prefer to clay the car as I wash -- you don't need to worry about having adequate lubrication and you don't need to rewash the car afterwards.  It's also not necessary to clay an entire vehicle if there's no need to.  Then dry the vehicle thoroughly (I like to use the Absorber, but some prefer the Waterblade or a mirofiber towel) before choosing your polish.  If the car has significant swirls, scratches, or defects, you might consider using a random orbital or rotary buffer with a quality swirl remover (be wary of how aggressive you get with older, single-stage paints).  As far as specific product recommendations, I use all the Zaino stuff on my 'Vette for a great final shine 

I used to fight with this all the time and probably have bought every wax made over the years -  until a pro told me two tips - first every time you wax you should remove the old wax first.  I never ever in 40 years of owning a car ever did that and it was AMAZING.  Second, invest in a professional oscillating buffer (not the cheap kind they sell at the big box stores).  I really like the results and get asked what I did a lot.

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Ken - C3VR Lifetime Member #79

Dawn dish detergent works great for removing any pre-existing waxes or polishes.  Wouldn't use it all the time, but for that purpose it won't harm anything.  Also if you do use a random orbital buffer to get rid of blemishes you'll be removing all that stuff anyway.

Somebody told me over the winter that one of the best things you can do for chrome is use baby oil on it to remove dirt and finger prints - sure would be cheaper then the "Mothers" stuff - ever tried that?

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Ken - C3VR Lifetime Member #79

[QUOTE=RUCRUZIN]Somebody told me over the winter that one of the best things you can do for chrome is use baby oil on it to remove dirt and finger prints - sure would be cheaper then the "Mothers" stuff - ever tried that?[/QUOTE]

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MICK - C3VR Lifetime Member #113

I use a product called Speedy Metal Polish on aluminum and chrome parts.  You probably won't find it in any chain store; it's produced locally and they do sell at Carlisle events.  Other people swear by Simichrome.

Any more ideas about removing the old wax?  First time I heard that one.

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If you've always used good 'ol carnauba wax there may not be much "old" wax to remove in the first place -- its main drawback is that it's not very durable.  Newer synthetic polishes can last for several months and it's a good idea to remove one before switching to another brand. 

I've been following the advice given here.  I gave the car a good washing (I used the Mr. Clean system that uses a water ionizer so you don't ahve to dry - it really works!).  Then I used a clay bar.  Nothing really came off as far as dirt from the paint, but I used Maquires with a spot detailer as a lubricant for the bar, and the car really shined!

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I wanted a Corvette my whole life, but I never dreamed of all the wonderful people I would meet because of it!

If the carnuba isn't very durable(I thought it was the best for that!!!)what do you recomend?I've just always used a good paste wax,it all seems to have carnube in it. I have used Liquid Glass and liked the shine it gives and the ease of removel.Liquid Glass says you can keep using it and it keeps building up.I guess it doesn't take off the last coat. Never heard of that and I'm not sure I'm going for it.

Basically there are two types of "waxes" (I use the term loosely, as I'll explain) -- natural carnauba and synthetic polishes, and there are significant differences between them. 

It's my humble opinion that most all of the new wax and polish systems are great. Probably boils down to which one(s) an individual really prefers. One of the quick detailers I keep going back to and highly recommend is Meguiars #34, Final Inspection. For whatever reason, cars really look great after a wash, polish, wax and quick finish off with the 34..

Are any of you familiar with a product called "Diamond Luster?"

I have been using it for years with great results.

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I have never heard of that but I can tell you I just did the Meguiars 3 step process (except I clay bared as the first step).  I also buffed at the end of the second step and just took 2nd place in the first car show I have ever done.

Several people stopped and asked how I got the wet looking finish on a silver car.

Hope that helps.

OK if you are looking for a quick & easy deep shine and you start with a clean car then try Eagle One Spray On Nanowax. Spray on wipe to a shine. It can be used on trim and windows also. Runs about $5.99. It worked pretty good on my 14 year old Black paint.

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Aaron

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