Where can i purchase a new compressor for my 74 vette?  I replaced everything for my air conditioning but the compressor is locked up so I need to replace it.

Corvette Central has new ones, perhaps one of our sponsors. Big Al

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The original A6 compressors are pretty cheap.  I buy a lot of parts from partsgeek.com, and they have it listed (with the clutch) for $251.  Ecklers is close at $259.  You can save a few bucks if your clutch is still good, but to be honest, it's worth the $70 or so to buy the new clutch and not have the hassle of swapping it.

Have you converted to R134a?  R12 is almost impossible to find now.  But the compressor will run on 134a or R12, it doesn't care.  But to run 134a you'll have to replace hoses, orings, and any other soft rubber. 




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"Let them that don't want none have memories of not gettin' any."
- Brother Dave Gardner

I see it for sale on ebay but it is not cheap. Is there a change over kit some one sells for the hose's and O-rings?

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This one is expensive, but includes a new compressor. 

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-air-conditioning-conversion-kit-r12-to-r134a-1977late-1982.html


But if your compressor is working and working well, I would not change it.  Just do the o-rings, drier, etc. and go for it.  Zip has this kit:

http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductDetails/ProductDetails.aspx?pid={9DE4A3C8-24E6-48EB-9957-10C62C6615D0}&gid={0F53E5DD-AA47-4F11-BE11-843B5C019195}&pname=68-90+R-134A+Conversion+Kit&Referer=&Alias=&ptct=SGR-SR&CTitle=&   You'd have to add the drier and o-rings to do it right.  (on the bottom of the page)

With any of them, you'd have to do a total evacuation before and after the install, which means having a vacuum pump and good set of gauges.  Not that expensive, although a cheaper way is to ply a friend with beer to do the evac and charge for you. 


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"Let them that don't want none have memories of not gettin' any."
- Brother Dave Gardner

Thanks Darryl, I'll check it out. Yes I do have a buddy that can do the evac & charge.

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How cold is the air if we switch to 134 with just a dryer and o-rings change?



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Just replaced the radiator and decided to do the condenser since I was there.  Nitrogen tested the lines and go figure the compressor leaks so that needs replacing.

 

I have been told that the rebuilt compressors are hit or miss and that these rebuild companies have poor QC.   Also originally these compressors were leak monsters lasting only a season at a time to begin with before requiring a recharge, probably why they were only warrantied for 1 season (meaning 4 months) when you bought the car brand new.

 

There is a new all aluminum compressor (silver in color) that runs about $600 that I have heard good things about them but they definitely do not look original and unfortunately this is the look I am going for.  Anyone have any luck with the alluminum or an OEM new replacement like on Zip?  

 

Also this is my first Vette, is the AC even worth pursuing, does it actually blow cold when working or even when it was new?  Most AC units work well when it's recycling cooler passenger compartment air, a convertible kind of defeats that! I also wonder if it will be even noticeable with the top down in 95 degree heat.

Thoughts?

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Vinnie

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/96164629@N06/sets/72157633578760337/

 

Check Out https://www.acpartshouse.com/inventory They seem to have good prices and have a latermodel replacement compressor to replace the A6 compressor Gary

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�

So are the original OEM A6 compressors DIY rebuildable? If so where can you buy a kit? I think I've seen Joel post before that the best thing to do with the remans is to tear them apart and use them to rebuild the original. Just wondering if there's a kit to do the same thing?

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Well...kinda sorta what I said...
I mentioned that on MY '74, that's what I was gunna do, because I wanted to keep the original compressor, with the correct dates/numbers on it. I did the same thing with my original water pump...bought a reman pump, tool all the guts/seals out, and put it all in my original pump housing.
 I wouldn't really suggest that everyone do that, but...if you're capable of doing it, then by all means go for it. The compressors are not a simple tear down/build. I don't know of any retail available rebuild kits, but they have to be available, since there are remans out there.

I'm just reeeeeeal leery of reman A/C compressors...I've been bitten too dang many times on my own vehicles, plus customer cars. For the extra $$$$ a NEW one costs, it's well worth it, imho. 


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Joel Adams
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I'm in the market for a new compressor myself. Probably wait until Spring as the budget is shot for this year.

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Dave, since I'm switching out to a Sanden compressor for my LS1 swap, I do have a good compressor I took off the old engine. It's only a few years old. Let me know if your interested in it.

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GEN III 5.7L "LS6" Engine swap
TKO500 5 spd.

I'm with Joel on the new vs rebuilt.  Rebuilts often fail.

Great info, guys, thanks! Automotive a/c systems are a bit of a mystery to me. One of the few things I haven't learned about yet on this car - chose to ignore it mostly for the last 12 years. Not even 100% sure compressor is the problem. Last time I tried it (6 or 7 years ago) seemed to work fine and even blew cold - for about 10 minutes. Then it appeared to seize, screeched and fried the belt. Just cut the belt and unplugged the compressor and been that way since. Does this sound like compressor or something else? Corvette central sells a kit that eliminates the "troublesome VIR sticking POA and TXV" for 74-76. No idea what all those are, but could they be the issue? CC also sells an aftermarket replacement for the A6 that may be a good option - only $359 instead of $600 mentioned above. It is silver so won't look stock but it could be painted black. Sarge, if you have an A6 I'd be interested but guessing you have the newer radial style if it came off your 81? Not sure what is involved in the conversion, but sure it would be at least some brackets if not other stuff. Thanks, though. Bet there are others with newer cars (77 and up) that may be interested.

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Ken, I so miss you! I hope this sighting is guna be a habit!

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Compressor locked up...no way around it, it needs to be replaced....and the system flushed. Most likely, there are parts of the compressor all thru the system....

Sarge's compressor will be the R4 type....


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Joel Adams
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Joel,

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There can be more than one thing that can cause an A/C compressor to lock up. The clutch bearing can certainly lock up, and burn the belt. If the pulley where the belt rides won't turn, but the compressor clutch itself will, that means the pulley bearing has failed. That can be fixed fairly easily by simply removing the clutch, and the pulley, then replacing the bearing in the pulley. Not a big deal for that.

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Joel Adams
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With the clutch disengaged like it is now and has been for the last many years, my pulley turns smooth as silk.  In fact, I sometimes still run a belt on it, just to keep the engine compartment looking finished and as a redundancy for the water pump/fan.  But, and here's where I am confused, I can also still turn the shaft (outside ring on the clutch/pulley) and it turns pretty smoothly.  There is a fair amount of resistance, but I'm assuming that is normal as it is a compressor.  No funny noises when I turn it, but I can hear the innards of the compressor doing their job.  This is why I think my comp might still be OK.  Maybe I will just replace the clutch and see if I can get it working again?  The clutch on my Dodge Dakota failed and it had very similar symptoms.  I replaced only the clutch and pulley bearing and it's been working great ever since.  

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Also just discovered that there is an AC Delco new replacement available for the A6:

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You can drain the oil in the A6 by removing the fitting on the bottom sump. But you can't put new oil in like that. To put new oil in, you need to have the compressor off, and stood on it's nose(clutch end). Pour a little oil into the suction side, and turn the compressor clutch to suck it in. You would normally put 1/2 half of the required oil into the compressor, and the other 1/2 into the dryer/accumulator. You can't do that if you have the VIR system(well...not very easily,anyway). So the next best method is to put the remaining oil charge in thru the charge system...same as putting freon in.

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Joel Adams
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I just went out and spun it again and listened real close.  I don't think I'm hearing any noises that would indicate a completely fried compressor.  I do hear some gurgling/ from the box that the hoses go into.  Not hissing like anything is escaping, just some slight gurgling which I'm assuming is due to the fact that I am actually compressing the fluid by turning the comp. shaft.  But, in any case, I believe you're probably right that if the compressor froze up once it would do it again.  Is there any merit to the idea of just replacing the clutch and pulley bearing before replacing the entire compressor?  My thought here is that I could continue to use R12 if I keep my old compressor, but if I replace the comp, I think a switch to R134a would be the only way to go.  And don't you need to replace the drier and other parts if you replace the compressor?  

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Dave, I would suggest that you connect your compressor, and with the belt on, run the A/C, and see if it still cools. From what I'm reading, something locked up on it, and you just disconnected the wiring. The bearing on the pulley spins free, and you can turn the clutch by hand. The "gurgling" sound you hear is the liquids flowing thru the compressor, so it apparently still has a charge. If you have a set of gauges, or can borrow them, see what kind of pressures you have on both sides of the system(high side & low side).

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Joel Adams
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I am about to do some major work on my 1969 427. The original harrison unit developed a leak so I put an aftermarket compressor on the car.  I want to restore the original compressor. Any suggestions on who can overhaul these units. I am in the tidewater area of Virginia.  Thanks, Bob

Thanks for the advice, Joel.  I am in the process of doing a radiator replacement so I plan to put the A/C belt back on and then hook up the connector and see what happens.    Can't hurt to try.  Well, I could be out another belt, but it's a cheapie.  If/when I ever do get A/C working I'll put on a reproduction belt (going that way now with my alternator belt).  I'll post again after I get it running.  

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It's not the pully you need to turn, it the center hub of the compressor in the middle of the pully.  That will tell you if the compresser is seized.

The center hub turns on mine.  The compressor is not currently seized although as Joel mentions it may have seized at one time.  I'm just going to hook everything back up and see what happens.  

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