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Topic: Convert to R-134a

in Forum: C3 Cooling and Heating Systems


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Convert to R-134a (1/6)
 6/24/07 10:26pm
garr72
Former Member

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Vette(s):
72 t-top red on black small block, auto,a/c,ps,pb,radio. Built Aug24/71 no.834


Joined: 11/16/2003
Posts: 16

To change A/C system from R12 to R134a what has to be done
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Convert to R-134a (2/6)
 6/24/07 10:33pm
ranger3Lifetime Member
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North Charleston, SC - USA

Vette(s):
1975 L48 AT AC T-top


Joined: 3/20/2004
Posts: 4176

When I converted mine I needed to replace the high pressure hose so I changed all of the orings while I had it disassembled. I replaced the receiver dryer also. The conversion kit contained the new fittings. I flushed the system out and then pulled a vacuum on it for about 45 minutes. After determining that the system was tight I added the 134a. Everything works fine and it cools very well. Ken Styer(Kstyer) is very good with this A/C stuff. You should email him if you have any ather questions.

Scott
ranger32007-06-26 14:12:11
Convert to R-134a (3/6)
 6/25/07 10:29pm
kstyerLifetime Member
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CUYAHOGA FALLS, OH - USA

Vette(s):
1975 C3 Red, T-Tops, Black Interior. All I need is time and money! Getting there!


Joined: 12/2/2003
Posts: 6424

At a minimum, if the system is now working or just low on R-12, have the system emptied by someone with the right equipment.   If it empty don't worry about it.
 
Remove the center valve gut, just like a valve stem on the tires, and install the conversion fittings for the R-134a connections.   Then evacuate (pull a vacuum) on the system, add a touch of oil if it was empty to start with, and fill it with R-134a.
 
The R-134a molecule is smaller then the R12 molecule, so it can leak out of any thing designed to seal R-12, such as gaskets, seals, o-rings, and hoses.  But it has been found the oil and coating that form inside the A/C system seal the components quite well.
 
If you open the system, use seals etc that are compatible with the R134a and you will have no problem.
 
Flushing the system is fine if you don't get carried away, and is in fact a good thing.   But if you use too good of a solvent when flushing, you will remove the old coating and you could have leakage problems.
Convert to R-134a (4/6)
 6/26/07 2:53am
garr72
Former Member

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Vette(s):
72 t-top red on black small block, auto,a/c,ps,pb,radio. Built Aug24/71 no.834


Joined: 11/16/2003
Posts: 16

Thanks I also checked at a garage and they just change fittings and orings  and the oil. Apparently the mineral oil and the ester oil are not compatible and the mineral oil settles to the bottem of the condensor, evaporator and the compressor.

Convert to R-134a (5/6)
 6/26/07 9:40am
knotacare
Former Member

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Newark, DE - USA

Vette(s):
1968 Conv, 454HO,500HP-600TQ, TKO-600,3:70 HD rear,hotrod air, custom paint & suspension,1973 Ruby Red,T-top, 383 Stroker, TK)-500,frame off restro, 1967 Dodge Coronet, 340 stroker to 406, Dana 60


Joined: 7/26/2004
Posts: 463

R-134 runs a hiher pressure than R-12 & you should change the compressor  to one that is designed for the higher pressure.
Alan


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Convert to R-134a (6/6)
 6/26/07 8:47pm
ossw1
Former Member

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Rocklin, CA - USA

Vette(s):
1970 T-Top350/350hp numbers matching 4 speed. It's a mess and 1970 Convertible 4 speed.


Joined: 4/2/2005
Posts: 484

Just stay with the R-12 it runs cooler then the 134.
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