O.K. - here is a list of what I have done so far - had the radiator re-cored; flushed the block and refilled with water / glycol; Replaced the hoses, thermostst, and thermostst housing.

I'd say looks like somebody is goin to be pulling the intake off.
If it's leaking to the outside, chances are it's also leaking to the inside.
Best thing to do would be go ahead and replace the intake gaskets. Be sure to NOT use the rubber end seals that fit across the front and rear of the block. They can keep the intake from setting down properly, which can lead to weird leaks like this. Use black sillycone on the block ends.
Of course, the intake could also be corroded around the water jackets, causing the leak.
The new water pump may have simply accelerated the leak...it would have shown up eventually anyway.

If you do replace the gaskets, use a small amount of Permatex "Aviation Sealer" around the water jackets(only!) of the gaskets. Let it sit for a few minutes before you put the gaskets on the heads. This will ensure no leakage from around the gaskets there.

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Joel Adams
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

I agree with everything Joel said. When I installed my Performer I used the rubber gasket in front and back and it didn't set right. So I put a nice round bead of silicone front and back and it did the trick. Also I think its important to tighten the bolts in the right sequence and torque. Joel prolly knows what the torque setting is.

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Click on images for Before and After pics!

Intake bolts are 35lbs/ft, if my memory is still semi-intact. Start in the center and work your way out criss-cross. Be careful tightening the end bolts around the water jackets...do them slowly.

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Joel Adams
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Joel:

Jim, would wouldn't necessarily notice any difference in they way it runs...it's a small leak, from what I gather, and it is around the coolant passage(s), not around the actual intake passages.
The only thing you would notice, IF it is leaking to the inside, is possible milky oil when you pull the dipstick, or the filler cap. It would have to be leaking internally quite a bit to mix in with the oil and do that, so if your oil looks normal, you're prolly okay.
Have you checked the bolts to see if they are loose around that area? You may be able to snug them up a little and stop, or ar least slow down the seepage. I'd suggest checking them anyway, just in case.

Changing the intake gaskets is not all that hard, or technical. It's simply a matter of remove/replace. Of course, if/when you decide to tackle the job, we're right here if you run into any issues, and need help.

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

You will need to pull the distributor to pull the intake.  So mark the distributor housing to the intake, and the position of the dist rotor before you pull it out.  Then dont turn the engine, and put the dist back in place matching your marks.  That will be close enought to start the engine and do the fine tuning with a timing light.  With care, you may be dead on.

all good advise. should you decide to go original.  i have my original `69  350/300hp a/c  water pump. seemed to be working fine when i pulled it off the car.  Bob

Thanks to all for the advice/support!

Still not a big deal.  You can do this in an afternoon.