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Topic: Flush or No Flush?

in Forum: C3 Cooling and Heating Systems


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Flush or No Flush? (1/14)
 12/5/07 6:51pm
1976VetteGuy
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Chicago, IL - USA

Vette(s):
1976 L48 T-top, Automatic, ps,pb,a/c, Everything stock. Good car in great shape.


Joined: 11/30/2007
Posts: 37

I just bought a 1976 and the heat isn't working.  So far, I've replaced the thermostat and haven't gotten much further.  Does anyone think that flushing out and cleaning the system might help?  I'm worried that there may be junk or rust clogging the heater core or some of the hoses...
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Flush or No Flush? (2/14)
 12/5/07 8:14pm
crossfire1982
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Cramerton, NC - USA

Vette(s):
black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion


Joined: 8/22/2006
Posts: 1094

Check along the heater hoses to see if the previous owner may have installed manual cutoffs on the hoses (a common practice).  Check all the way along each hose to the heater core connection under the car.
Flush or No Flush? (3/14)
 12/5/07 8:18pm
1976VetteGuy
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Chicago, IL - USA

Vette(s):
1976 L48 T-top, Automatic, ps,pb,a/c, Everything stock. Good car in great shape.


Joined: 11/30/2007
Posts: 37

ok...cool.  Let's pretend that I didn't know where or what the heater hoses looked like...do they come out of the water pump?  There are two right?
Flush or No Flush? (4/14)
 12/6/07 12:32am
suncountryLifetime Member
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Moses Lake, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 L48 4-spd, Mahogany Metalic exterior, Buckskin interior 350ci/350hp, 3rd owner, fiberglass spring, 255/50-16's Torq-Thrust II


Joined: 4/16/2005
Posts: 2134

One comes out the side of the water pump. The fitting in the water pump should stick out about 1-1/2" directing the hose towards the A-arm on the right side of the vette and pass under the A/C compressor. That hose is 3/4" id. The other hose comes out of the right side of intake manifold between the thermostat and head. Its a 5/8" id hose and if the clip is still on the fender then they are secured there. In line on one of the hoses near the clip is the factory shut off valve. It should have a small vac line attached to it.
Flush or No Flush? (5/14)
 12/6/07 8:42am
Okie DudeLifetime Member
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Eastern Oklahoma County, OK - USA

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1980 Black L48 T-Tops


Joined: 1/3/2006
Posts: 1560

Lots of folks do install gate valves somewhere in these lines (you have to do both lines to do any good).  It will be a screw in "T" handle type valve that opens and closes to allow for water flow. 

Most put them where you can get to them but some do put them up under the A/C box.  DO NOT grab them if the car is hot!  Wait for it to cool down to turn them.
Flush or No Flush? (6/14)
 12/6/07 9:17am
6880Mike
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Horse Cave, KY - USA

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1968 convertible; 1980 L-82


Joined: 10/22/2007
Posts: 488

If you car has a shut off valve in the heat/defrost lines, the valve is probably stuck closed.  Check it.
 
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Flush or No Flush? (7/14)
 12/6/07 11:37am
warbird
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Roseland, NJ - USA

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1974, 454 with 4 on the floor, matching numbers.


Joined: 12/4/2003
Posts: 966

Check to make sure the hose is connected to the heater core. Some people who may have had a leak in the core just bypass it.
Also, check your heater control valve and switches and make sure they're working too.
I flush mine every year (I can't help that I'm anal)  
Flush or No Flush? (8/14)
 12/7/07 5:44pm
my7t1Lifetime Member
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Dorr, MI - USA

Vette(s):
71 Colonnade Hardtop Coupe Torch Red with black interior originally L48 built to push around 360hp


Joined: 8/21/2002
Posts: 2581

If You've check for manual shutoff valves and your control valve is working properly, fell the hoses going in and out of the heater core. If the outlet (to water pump) is noticeably cooler that the inlet (from engine block) then the core could be plugged. If they are both hot you may have a blendoor problem. Terry



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Flush or No Flush? (9/14)
 12/8/07 6:11pm
1976VetteGuy
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Chicago, IL - USA

Vette(s):
1976 L48 T-top, Automatic, ps,pb,a/c, Everything stock. Good car in great shape.


Joined: 11/30/2007
Posts: 37

OK...so I've figured out that the hoses running into the heater core
aren't hot when the engine is at temp.  So there's a flow issue
somewhere.  I also noticed that the hose running from the engine
block, I believe, goes into the A/C box and is attached by a vacuum
actuator valve that appears to have the vacuum line cut.  Is it
typical to have this valve in the line, and if so, where can I trace
to where the hose should go to supply the vacuum?  Will this cause the
flow problem to the system?  Last question...what causes the actuation
to happen to the valve in the water loop?
Flush or No Flush? (10/14)
 12/11/07 1:52pm
1976VetteGuy
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Chicago, IL - USA

Vette(s):
1976 L48 T-top, Automatic, ps,pb,a/c, Everything stock. Good car in great shape.


Joined: 11/30/2007
Posts: 37

To all that helped me out I thank you...
 
So from reading past posts, I am going to install the manual valves on the hoses as I think the vacuum control valve might be stuck in the closed position or something as I am not getting any flow to the heater core.
 
One last question to everyone about this...do I need to drain the coolant level down to close off these valves in the summer?  Also, when they are shut off, how can I make sure the heater core is not going to rust while it is not being used?  In other words, do I drain it somehow when I close off the manual valves?  Or does the water just stay in there all summer?
 
Thanks again!!!
Flush or No Flush? (11/14)
 12/11/07 5:42pm
my7t1Lifetime Member
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Dorr, MI - USA

Vette(s):
71 Colonnade Hardtop Coupe Torch Red with black interior originally L48 built to push around 360hp


Joined: 8/21/2002
Posts: 2581

You really have no need to drain coolant to close valves. I would make sure you have fresh coolant in the system, and the rust inhibitors will protect the core. After all summer weather in Chicago only lasts 1-2 months, right?Rolling%20On%20The%20Floor%20Laughing

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Flush or No Flush? (12/14)
 12/11/07 9:10pm
1976VetteGuy
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Chicago, IL - USA

Vette(s):
1976 L48 T-top, Automatic, ps,pb,a/c, Everything stock. Good car in great shape.


Joined: 11/30/2007
Posts: 37

Exactly!!  Actually, it seems like the warm weather gets longer in the fall, but the cold stuffstays around longer in the spring...really weird.
 
Tanks for all your help.
 
I'm gonna try to replace the vacuumcontrol valve with the manual ne either tonight or tomorrow to see if that was the flow inhibitor.  If that's not the cuprit, then I guess I'm stumped.  I haven't been able to trace the hoses to the heater core pipes as they are under the car and I don't have a way of getting under there.  Can I take off the lower dash to see hem?
Flush or No Flush? (13/14)
 12/12/07 11:08am
1976VetteGuy
Former Member

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Chicago, IL - USA

Vette(s):
1976 L48 T-top, Automatic, ps,pb,a/c, Everything stock. Good car in great shape.


Joined: 11/30/2007
Posts: 37

So I replaced the old vacuum valve with a manual one and now I have heat!  Thanks to everyone that helped...
 
In the spring, I will attack the other valve so I can shut it down for summer running.
 
I wasn't prepared for the amount of fluid that came out of the heater core when I took out the old valve.  Was I supposed to drain the radiator before I took it out?  Just curious as I will have to cut the other line when I do the next valve...
 
Thanks again!!!
 
 
Flush or No Flush? (14/14)
 1/26/08 12:33am
2 cruznLifetime Member
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Poquoson, VA - USA

Vette(s):
73 Conv, Blue-Green/White Top - 454, M21 - Dark Saddle Leather, Power Windows, A/C, Tilt/Tele, AM/FM St. (orig. and sounds like it too).#2 -- 2007 Coupe,3 LT package, Z51 option, Victory Red, Ebony Int. Clear Top.


Joined: 11/20/2004
Posts: 1023

[QUOTE=1976VetteGuy]So I replaced the old vacuum valve with a manual one and now I have heat!  Thanks to everyone that helped...
 
In the spring, I will attack the other valve so I can shut it down for summer running.
 
I wasn't prepared for the amount of fluid that came out of the heater core when I took out the old valve.  Was I supposed to drain the radiator before I took it out?  Just curious as I will have to cut the other line when I do the next valve...
 
Thanks again!!!
 
 
[/QUOTE]
Draining down to a level below where you cut will help. If you have a drain in the radiator .. great... you can do it there. Try to keep the open hose as high as possible to keep it from draining...  If you need to drain it some... I usually break the line at the water pump since it makes the least mess. And easier to clean up. Unfortunately it will be somewhat messy... so do all your under-car stuff before you break the line... I would not break a "radiator" hose unless you plan on replacing it. It's a lot cheaper and easier to replace heater hose. Also leave the radiator cap on unless you want to speed up the draining.Wink


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