Christian said:
OK. The new Dewitt rad is in place and the water pump works fine (a Stewart Hi-Flow, in aluminum too).
The engine holds the temperature pretty well whether on the highway or in the traffic.
Except that the thermometer on the dash shows 225F. It used to be 210F with the old rad before it got clogged. The thermostat was changed too (supposedly195F).
At least, I don't fear the traffic anymore (before I changed the rad, it would go to 250F in a few minutes in traffic).
I checked the temperature with a laser thermometer, just after shutting down the engine.
Thermostat, water pump, intake manifold at cylinders 1 and 2: 225F
Intake manifold to cylinder 7: 230F
Intake manifold to cylinder 8: 270F !!!!!!!!!!
Intake manifold to other cylinders: 250-255F
All these seem quite high to me. Especially on cylinder 8.
Any comment?
I'm a little confused as to why you are measuring temps like this. On the intake manifold, the rearmost cylinders do not have a coolant crossover as the front does. Temps on the manifold there will be higher than the front. Without coolant flow, the static temps after shutting the engine down will obviously go higher for short time, since there is no coolant flow.
Using a 195* thermostat will have the coolant at a higher temp before it opens, so actual coolant temps will likely be in the 205* range before the coolant even starts circulating thru the radiator to be cooled.
What does your temp gauge show while driving down the road in no traffic? If the engine was
actually running 250* before it would have been puking coolant, unless you have a higher rated rad cap than normal.
Something strange happening here....
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