hey gang, help me out....

74stingray4542007-04-09 08:55:36

It could be a couple of things...

air in the cooling system that needs to be bled out;
a bad radiator cap;
defective thermostat;
timing too far advanced;
loose belts;
water pump.

When I say water pump, I know you replaced it with a high performance unit. Sometimes a water pump that flows too much coolant too fast will not allow the liquid to stay in the radiator long enough to transfer heat and goes right back to the block and heads. It's a long shot, but that could be it.

Did you completely flush the system when the work was done? There could be a restriction in the block.

Make sure all the seals around the radiator were installed properly. They are critical for efficient cooling in a Vette. Otherwise airflow is going around the radiator instead of through it.

Also...pour a bottle of Water Wetter in the system.Gunslinger2007-04-07 16:03:38

 another long shot, but make sure you have the right rotation water pump, water may be circulating backwards,rd

Did you put in  new thermostat? With everything else you did, unless the water is flowing in the wrong direction, this is where I'd start...

well, I did backflush the system in the fall and a lot of stuff came out... I flushed it till it ran clear and then some...

if its not one thing, its another.... but really, is a big block running at 210 excessive?

Just a thought...by any chance have you installed a serpentine belt system? They use a reverse flow water pump and if you replaced that with a standard flow, even a high flow standard rotation unit, that could definitely cause problems.

As RickD said, make sure you have the correct direction flow water pump.

Hope you find it's a simple problem with a simple fix.

At what temp. do the electric fans come on? Maybe it needs to be lowered. Do you still have the stock fan & shroud in place?

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Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82

   

I am suing the std belt driven arrangement.... the water flows fine....

jim, as i understand from what i read and heard the rad seals aren't as critical as they are with standard setup. i am in the process of installing mine so i can't tell if its because of your bb. they do make lower temp sensors you might want to try. you may want to try a lower temp stat. i know for mine they say you can use the standard 195, but also list a 180 or a 165 as a replacement.

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LIFETIME MEMBER #97
THE DYNAMIC DUO

The thermostat only controls the min. temp. of the engine not the max. temp.

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Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82

   

[QUOTE=DaveM]The thermostat only controls the min. temp. of the engine not the max. temp.[/QUOTE]

yes thats right. a lower temp stat will let the water start flowing sooner so the temp might not get that high. also with a lower temp sensor for the fans will make it so they don't have to cool it down from a higher temp.


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LIFETIME MEMBER #97
THE DYNAMIC DUO

A lower thermostat sometimes may not give water enough time to cool in the radiator also....

Today ( monday) its supposed to be nice and cool, I think Ill take her for a ride and see what happens! and while I am out, pick up a different t-stat74stingray4542007-04-09 04:48:00

I have the same setup as you, my BB stays at 200 degrees. Since everything was fine until you did your upgrades, I suggest you also look at your timing.

my timing is set right at 12 degrees, all the hoses look fine as well..... lower hose is good to go   thanks for the input

Glad you found the problem. From experience, C3 grounding issues are a pain.

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Time to do the happy dance

That's great news. Nothing worse than installing a lot of new parts and having a bigger problem than you started with. Glad it worked out.
Scott

glad to hear it worked out. i remember you saying you checked it for ground and it was good. now i know for sure i will attach a ground wire to the radiator to make sure. wierd how it can check out ok one minute and not the next.

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LIFETIME MEMBER #97
THE DYNAMIC DUO

Yes, If you're running the sending unit built into the rad, do run a ground wire from the BODY of the sending unit to a point on the car. Once I did that the fans kicked on and off like a champ.....

I also called Dewitts and explained to them what happened and they were goin gto look at the assembly and see if in fact they are using too much teflon on the threads of the sending unit. ( SPAL recommends NO sealing compound on the sending unit)

that's the first thing spal told me is why they don't recommend teflon tape, because people tend to use too much. the tech told me to use the least amount of anything to seal it. i put a very fine coat of the black pvc sealant.  good idea you had about calling dewitts as they might not realize how much they are using. everyone's intitled to goof. got my rad in and mounted and will have to do the wiring.

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LIFETIME MEMBER #97
THE DYNAMIC DUO

eddie,  do yourself a favor and go to summitracing.com and buy one of thier wire loom kits, it make the install look very nice and professional.... kinda hides all the wires....

as all the wires on the fan themselves have a plastic covering over them, i figured i would use the plastic tubing that you can get at the auto store to cover all the loose wires. thanks for the suggestion. would hate to leave it looking like a mess under the hood. wish they made something to hide all the wires behind my computer

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LIFETIME MEMBER #97
THE DYNAMIC DUO

Yeah, but the auto store might not have the nifty "T" fitting and end caps like that kid had.... give it a nice "finished look" and the price is nothing to sneeze at....