My car still has R-12 and original compressor. It only gets very cool, not cold like the new AC systems. I had it checked, only a little low, so he topped it off with Freeze12. My AC guy says the system is full and R-12 pressure is good and this is as good as it gets. He says R134A won't be as good as what I have! Do I need an upgraded compressor? Do they make a better compressor? Can I ever get it to blow cold?

R134A will not be as cold as R-12.

______________

134 will cool...eventually. R12 cools quicker.
IF the interior of the car is tight, and there are NO outside air leakages into the cabin, AND there is a heat barrier installed, AND all of the ductwork for the A/C system is there, connected, and sealed properly, then 134 will work great. The problem is getting all of the above in a Corvette!
Bottom line is the system needs to be in good working condition first. No type of refrigerant is gonna cool well if there are leaks in the airflow, or hot outside air getting into the cabin.
I've converted MANY A/C systems to 134 over the years...some systems/cars work way better than others.
The system in my 'Burban, with rear A/C will freeze ya out...eventually. It just takes a while to get it to that point. The last Cad that I converted would freeze ya out in just a few minutes.
You will eventually wind up converting to 134, but...as long as it is still working, stick with the R12. If you wind up having to open the system up for repairs, then that's when the conversion should take place.

______________

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

I had my 82 converted to 134A last summer.  The A/C didnt work when I got the car and it needed several components replaced anyway so it was the right time to convert.  The A/C gets cold, but not to the point that you can hang meat in the car.  In the 90-95 degree heat with matching humidity in the South, it is adequate.  I have all of the things Joel mentioned except my heat barrier could be better.

During a pre-trip checkup on "The Beast" it was found that the A/C condenser needed to be replaced.  The options laid out were "Pay me now or pay me later" for the conversion.  With R12 at $90/lb and R134 at $20/lb (at the stealership) we decided to make the switch.

______________

Jim Olson 

"The Toys"...!!!  Save the Wave!

Where I've been in a Corvette...!!!

Does it start out nice and cold but gradually get less cold as the motor fully warms up? Could be the cutoff valve in the heater hose not working. Air blows cold while cold coolant is still flowing through the heater core.

I've replaced my heater valve with a manual for complete shut-off so that is not the problem. The air coming out of the ducts is not cold or really very cool, just pretty cool. It is enough with the system running on max air and full fan on a hot day. It really hasn't been that hot here this summer. I've sealed all leaks and put a reflective barrier inside on T-tops and it will just keep you barely comfortable on a hot sunny day. I bought the car in Houston to drive back to Arkansas. Before I got out of town the T-top heat barrier was already duct taped up. I will check my duct work for integrity and I guess that is about all I can do for now.

Thanks for all the input!

terntes.

When you had the AC serviced did they just top off the freon or did they evauate the system and pull  a good vacuum? It sounds like there might be some moisture in the system. If the pressure is good and not gettin cold there is moisture or a blockage. That's assuming all the thing Joel menioned are good.

Scott

   To the best of my knowledge he checked the pressure, it was good so they added a can of Freeze12 and charged me $55. That stuff is not supposed to be compatible with R12, but what do I know? It might be moisture or I've heard it might be dirt on the cooling core? It will be very hot here for the next  two months and I drive my car every day, so I'm going to get it fixed, no matter what.

My suggestion being an a/c tech, PLEASE stay away from so called drop in ref. Stick with either r12 or 134a. All the others are a corktail soup of different ref. Plus I would be really ticked off if I ran it into my recycling equip. They're all a contaminant. my7T12007-07-14 05:55:50

______________

Click on images for Before and After pics!

I am in the same boat, on my way back from Cleveland my AC developed a leak in the tube going to the condenser so a  fix and recharge has to be done. I have R12 and will stay with that even though the cost is high. The last time I repaired it was 5 years ago. The thing I am worried about is what else should I do to make sure something else doesn't break/start to leak after I have fixed it. I completely rebuilt the system 11 years ago so is it time to do it again? Should I change out all the o-rings now or is better to leave it alone?

 

Redwingvette2007-08-03 11:00:46

______________

Brian - NCM Lifetime Member

73 coupe L48, Flat-top pistons, Performer RPM Heads, Crane Cam and roller rockers, Holley 650 vac sec. Performer intake,
3.55 gear BTO 200-4R trans,
Leather seats, Seatbelt Plus 3point seatbelts, Pioneer CD player
Magnaflow Exhuast System

My old ford van had r12. the a/c guys at work put some stuff in that was "suppose " to be compatable. It worked for a week and wouldn't cool again. my buddy and I changed the dryer, the orifice tube and he ran some stuff thru it that cleaned out the lines, condenser and evatorator. We drew a vacumn and charged it with 134a. I sold the van three years ago  when I bought my 77 vette and a 93 ford explorer. My neighbor bought it and uses it to go to Nascar races, camping. the A/C is still working very well.

Ricebiker,

 I fix a/c systems for a living,,,r-12 is a much better refrigerant,however a 30 lb can costs me 1000.oo dollars (if I can find it)  r134 is not as good but a 30 lb can costs me 110.00,,its a matter of bucks,,if your old r12 system is still intact,,stay with it,,if you need to upgrade then go with r134,,rd

The cost and availability is why everything I have now has 134a. not to mention I can do all the work myself. I can't buy, sell or trade R12 (no license)