I'm going to refer to my shop manual for this but, just a general question. After I remove the hood and fan shroud. Is it really that much of a PTA to take out. I know it's in there at quite an angle. I'm not really sure if it's my rad or not. I went to drive it this morning and I found a puddle of coolent on the floor. It seems to be dripping from further back than the rad itself so I might be a lower hose or maybe the leak is from the rad and traveling along something before falling to the floor. It was 5:00 am so I didn't have a chance to really look at it.I'm asking about the removel because that is usually how my luck runs. Thanks.

Hi Mike. Maybe the water pump? If you can't locate the exact point of the leak with the engine running, have it pressurized at the local shop. If it is the radiator and you want to handle it yourself, it's not that big of a deal to remove. Disconnect the shroud and slide it back over the fan. Disconnect the hoses and all the goodies atop the radiator ( if it's an automatic remove the oil cooler lines) and it will slide up and out ( its easier w/two people). There are 2 different radiators available for our cars. I upgraded to the 4 row and had to order new rubber mounts, but ,no big deal. aceinthehole2007-09-10 08:51:44

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Jimmy B.
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Ok, Thannks. I've got an 82CE with what I beleive is the orginal rad.I'll look when I get home and see if it might be the water pump(God forbid) It hasn't been making any noise. I'll do the check and see if the bearing is going bad. Like I said eairler, right now I'm just stabbing in the dark because I haven't had a chance to even pop the hood yet. A bad lower rad hose would be nice If it is the rad. I'm not sure how I'm going to deal with it yet. Could take it to the rad. shop and have it fixed if possiable, if not then I guess I'll go shopping. I really don't want to deal with a water pump. I've changed my share in my life but not on a vette. Old Camaros Gto's Novas stuff like that.zgator2007-09-10 11:31:26

Not sure about the later C3's, but the radiators on earlier c3's aren't bad to get out.

The water pump on a SB isn't all that tough either.  Pretty accessible.

If you decide to remove the radiator, it's a good idea to cut a piece of cardboard to put over the inboard fins and tubes.  Just tape it in place. In the event you hit the fan or shroud, while lifting the radiator out, it will prevent further damage. I would certainly look at the hoses and water pump weep hole before removing the radiator. Good luck.

 

Scott ranger32007-09-10 19:32:29

[QUOTE=ranger3]If you decide to remove the radiator, it's a good idea to cut a piece of cardboard to put over the inboard fins and tubes.  Just tape it in place. In the event you hit the fan or shroud, while lifting the radiator out, it will prevent further damage. I would certainly look at the hoses and water pump weeo hole before removing the radiator. Good luck.

 

Scott [/QUOTE] Great idea ranger3.I do have one ?.The water pump weeo. What is that. Is that some kind of check for leakage?

Imma thinking he meant "weep hole".
On the bottom side of the pump, just behind where the pully is, there is a hole there. It is there to allow coolant to leak out if the inner seal takes a dump. At least, that's what we use it for! In reality, it is there to allow air to get in between the two seals, so there is no suction created as the shaft turns, there-by causing early seal failure.

I would recommend removing the fan before removing the radiator. Just makes it a bit easier to work around, and move the shroud out of the way.



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Joel Adams
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I'm with Joel, 'cause that's how I did it

 ...did this a few months back and put in the SPAL's and the DeWitts radiator...best things I've done since the engine swap..

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Thanks Joel...I corrected the typo.

Scott

I didn't think it was a typo. I thought it was a slang term? Thanks for clearing it up.

I'll bet ya dollars to donuts that it ain't the rad, but a hose, loose connection, or water pump. 

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If you decide to remove the radiator:: I didn't remove the hood when I replaced the radiator on my 74.  Remove the fan first, then the shroud.  My shroud had been "cut".  I Unbolted the hood bracket thats hold the hood open and cut a wooden stick to hold it more perpendicular.  Beats having to remove the hood.  I bought a Dewitts.  I think it was $525 including shipping.  My old original 74 radiator couldn't be repaired.  Good Luck.

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Steve, Lifetime Member #129

74 coupe 4 speed 350, 54K actual miles,
all original; paint, interior, engine,
split  bumper. #'s match. 2nd owner, no stress cracks.

I ordered a Dewitt at Carlisle and came home today to find it on my porch. Kinda felt like a kid at Christmas time. Just had to open it up so I could fondle it a little bit while it's still brand new. This will be a winter project. Have a small leak in an older replacement, so I figured, what the heck, go for the best. It's funny how when you go to these shows it's so easy to get into a spending mood.     Show special and free shipping.

Thanks everybody. I sure will trouble shoot EVERYTHING before I even look at the radiator. I like the idea with the wood stick a whole lot better than removing the hood!!! Sundevil, I think you are right on this. My leak is quite a ways back from the radiator. I'm going out right now and crank it up. Maybe I'll have an update real quick...............99% waterpump.I'm either out of coolent or it's interminite. I'm gonna let it cool down and check the fulid.It is dripping right from the balancer but like I said it's not a steady drip. I let it run while I was under the car for about 3 or 4 min and it dripped twice. zgator2007-09-11 15:09:25

If you can't find the leak, go to Autozone and borrow a hand pump to pressurize the cooling system. Make sure there is water in the system before placing the pump on the radiator. It doesn't take much pressure, just a few pumps. You will probably hear the leak before you see it. This process has never failed me.

Scott

Thats what I'm going to do. I keep forgetting that Autozone does that

[QUOTE=aceinthehole]Hi Mike. Maybe the water pump? If you can't locate the exact point of the leak with the engine running, have it pressurized at the local shop. If it is the radiator and you want to handle it yourself, it's not that big of a deal to remove. Disconnect the shroud and slide it back over the fan. Disconnect the hoses and all the goodies atop the radiator ( if it's an automatic remove the oil cooler lines) and it will slide up and out ( its easier w/two people). There are 2 different radiators available for our cars. I upgraded to the 4 row and had to order new rubber mounts, but ,no big deal. [/QUOTE] You are right on the money. It's my water pump.When I go to the Auto parts store am I going to have to say the Corvette word and pay the big bucks or can I just get a water pump for an 82 Impala/ect?

Best to stick with the exact application. There are a lot of different pumps for chevy.

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Jimmy B.
Just can't wait to get on the road again.

 
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Yeah, I somewhat figured that. Maybe someone will have done this and give us some insite. But for right now I'm going to make sure I get the right part. I hate having to take parts back right when I'm trying to install the item I jusy got.

I replaced my water pump last year and used a Stewart High-Flow pump which is said to pump 40% more water, I also installed a High-Flow T-state. This combination has help lower my temp's here in Arizona but still going to go aluminum. If you need to change the pump you may want to consider the above.
Good Luck!

A rebuilt water pump that fits an 82 Chevrolet (long style) is the application for your car.  The part numbers for the water pump will cross reference.  That is one of the many parts that is not Corvette specific and you would be better off saying Caprice or Malibu to the parts clerk.

Ok, Now I looked at my shop manual for water pump replacement. It's all pretty stright forward until I came to the part where I have to remove the pulley. Is this going to require a special tool?This is defintally a job I'm going to do.Let me know about the removal of the pulley and replacement.Thats one thing about the shop manual that I don't like. They explain it like I'm a certified repair person(not a lot of detail) It's written for someone whos in the business. It's still a good manual tho'

No Worry, the pully will slip right off with the fan and clutch. 4 bolts to remove the fan and everything comes with it.aceinthehole2007-09-13 19:05:58

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Jimmy B.
Just can't wait to get on the road again.

 
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Thanks. The autozone said the water pump is $30.00. I guess that I should replace my thermostat. He looked it up and said it should have a 190. Is that right? I thought it was maybe 180-185.

Don't really want to go lower than a 190 on a stock CFI, the ECM won't like it - has trouble getting in and out of closed loop.