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I just did the temp check on mine. When it sits and idles my gauge goes up to 210 once warm. The fan doesnt come on until the gauge gets to 205 - 210. It goes off around 195. Mine are dual spal from dewitts. My sending unit is suppose to turn the fans on at 190 - 195 and off at 180 - 185. After the fans cycled on and off a few times I took my temp sensor gun and found that when the gauge reads 210 the sending switches and thermostat housing is at 195. When the fans complete the cycle the switches and housing are down to 185. Now thats on mine so I know the gauge isnt 100% accurate. I realize you said before the change yours temps never ran that high so I would suggest you check it and see what you really have. Again mine is a dual set and your are using a single fan, But i also know others running a single fan and they are happy with their setup.
Best of luck
Rodney



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This may be your issue. Unless that pump has a variable speed, it may not be capable of keeping the coolant flow volume up at road/cruize speed. Does the engine cool down once you slow down from hiway speeds, or does it stay hot, or continue to get hotter?

Electric pumps are prolly ok on cars with front ends/grills that allow air onto the radiator. Shark cars ain't all that great in that area...not a lot of airflow thru the rad., so they naturally tend to wanna run hotter than most other vehicles. Anything that hampers coolant or air flow will cause them to run hotter.

I would first want to verify that the temp on the gauge is correct by doing the same thing Rodney did...check it with an infrared temp gun, and compare actual temp to gauge temp, and go from there.


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Thanks guys for the info, I will check it out this week when I get some free time after work. Going to get a temp gun and see what that shows. Thanks again, ACE

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I went and bought a mini IR thermometer with laser pointer. The fan kicks on around 200 deg + - , I think it needs to come on sooner like 180 +-. I also added a bottle of water wetter should it not help lower temp or is that just bunk ? Would it be better to replace sensor with one that turns on sooner like 185 ish ? I have a 16" Jeggs universal S blade 1950 cfm fan do I need to run a dual fan set up or will this be ok when I get it to turn on sooner. I'm at my witts end if there is such a thing  Can I also add a toggle switch to turn on fan sooner or is that not a good idea ? Well I'm done rambling for now hope this wont make me any grayer       Any and all help is appreciated, thanks gang for UR help !

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sensors to come on at different temps are available. i think a good place to check is dewitts. as for adding a switch to turn it on or off you can add a ground to your sensor that is controlled by a toggle switch. all your sensor does is create a ground. many people do that in case the switch were to manfunction. good luck rodney

|UPDATED|7/5/2012 5:05:52 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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What kind of shroud, and is it sealed against the radiator? If the fan isn't shrouded completely, you could have air passing around it, instead of being drawn thru the fan. The electric fan really shouldn't be an issue at cruizing speeds...there should be enough airflow over the rad to keep the engine cool at road speeds...unless there is something restricting the airflow(trash on front of condenser/radiator, air dam(spoiler) missing/damaged, or seals around the rad missing/damaged.

Turning the fan on sooner will not keep it from getting hot....it will just take it a little longer to get there.


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Here is a pic of my set up.

https://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/1601_1700/1663/FD61B_P9290189.JPG


(large image changed to link)


|UPDATED|7/9/2012 6:23:48 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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Wow....I see at least part of the problem... You have no lower shroud...all of the air that should be going thru the radiator is going right under/behind it. You really need to find the rest of the shroud, or find something to close up that huge open area below the radiator...you should NOT be able to see the ground from the top...
Do you have the lower part of the shroud?

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

To my knowledge (which is small compared to many on here) there are two types of fans.....a pusher which would be mounted in front of the radiator, and a puller which is mounted behind the radiator to pull air through...but yes, the hole that is big enough to drive a semi through is a big issue.  It is also a HUGE issue on the older gas engine motorhome.  Need to seal it up to make sure ALL the air that is possible goes THROUGH the radiator.

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Warning: The surgeon general has declared that it is NOT unhealthy to smoke your competition AND I just discovered that my corvette is a hybred.  It burns gas and rubber! 

The fan is a puller, I will work on fixing bottom part of shroud. I think I cut it off, OH OH ! I will fabricate something if need B. 

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The lower scoop is in place. I guess I need to figure out what to do with bottom of shroud, mine was always cracked so I cut it off.

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That lip on the bottom is there to help direct the air UP and into the radiator area. I do not know hohw much a lower valanve costs, but I don't think that they are very much.  Ifyou can, you might look into an entier new lower valance.  just my humble. and probably useless opinion.

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Warning: The surgeon general has declared that it is NOT unhealthy to smoke your competition AND I just discovered that my corvette is a hybred.  It burns gas and rubber! 

V King,

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U guys R awsome   I just replaced my fan shroud, installed a 185 sending unit. It worked temp went just a tad over 195 while ideling in garage ! Now it's time to Cruz and enjoy rest of summer.  

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Horaaaaay!!!!  

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Yep, U guys R the best ! Whenever I have a question there is never a shortage of help given. Thanks again and enjoy the summer CRUZN75  

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Ok here we go again  cruzn today and it went to 210 again. I even have the fan shroud and seals installed. I think I'm going to put the aluminum water pump back on N try that. It has been in the upper 90's here the last few days but that should not natter much I hope. My ride today was about an hr total there N back so I am at a loss for sure. Thought I had it fixed, could the electric water pump be the main issue ?  Thanks again guys, I'm becoming a regular here LOL

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Hey Adrian,

I'm running a stock 82' nothing fancy.  I have the timing pulled back to stock 6* and am running regular gas. The temperature this time of year is in excess of 95* every day. My normal temp is just a needle's width above 200*.  With outside temps above 105* if I'm sitting at a stop light the engine temp will start climbing but, that is really hot outside and the Air Conditioner is blasting.  When I drive off, it comes back down and rides at my normal 205* ish. When I was using high test with the timing advanced to 12* she ran just a needle's width under 200* which is at the thermostat value of 195*.  Don't know if this will help any.  It is just what I'm observing here in the desert.

All the best.

Keith


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Nobody ever waves when I'm driving the Explorer.
K Woody

Keith,

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I took the 180 thermostat out and right now it is stabilizing at just at 200. maybe that will work for now. I sure hope so because it's time to CRUZ75 Thanks, ACE

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