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Topic: This was a little scary!

in Forum: C3 Driveline Components


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Re: This was a little scary! (7/17)
 7/1/14 1:10am
HighDesertDave
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Carson City, NV - USA

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Numbers matching 1972 350 4 speed, silver pewter body with blue interior


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Ya that POS Honda followed me in....couldn't shake him. I know...."what the...?"

Yup, will pull the arms and have them done up. I might press them out myself just to inspect the innards. Yes, I feel very lucky it happened at like 10 MPH in the parade and 2 miles from my house. As far as the brakes, yes this was the brake issue. The rotor was starting to wedge itself in the caliper as the bearing got looser. The disc brakes saved my bacon. It kept the wheel inside the fender rather than flying down the road. Hoping the rotor is not warped. It looks fine...no visible damage. All the brakes on this car are new including rebuilt calipers. This rotor looks to be a turned OEM unit. Now I did see how the internal e-brake works and and found the star adjuster. Tell me this: it appears you need to pull the spindle out of the t-arm to install the e-brake shoes etc. The e-brake stuff is all new. If yes you do need to pull the spindle to get at the internal drum then someone did that and didn't replace the inner wheel bearings. The grease in there is like old tar.  But why would you not replace the bearings if you had it all apart? I will never know.....


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My Christmas present to ME! Bought Sat 11-30-2013. 72, 350 4 spd, Silver with blue interior...Can't you just hear Pablo Cruz playing in the background?

Re: This was a little scary! (8/17)
 7/1/14 12:03pm
NorskyLifetime Member
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It has been awhile since I worked on the parking brkes but I don't remember having to pull all of that apart.  If memory serves I just had to remove the caliper and rotor to get at all the parking brake stuff.  Just did all that on "The Silver Buckboard" (my '01 F-150) and the setup is virtually the same.

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Re: This was a little scary! (9/17)
 7/1/14 12:58pm
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Duncanville, TX - USA

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The park brake stuff is easier to mess with if you remove the spindle/hub, but it isn't required. Just a little harder to wrangle all the parts around the hub. Since your plan is to have the bearings replaced anyway, if it were me, I would press the hub/spindle out, and then take care of whatever the p brake needs before putting the hub/bearings back in the support. Be aware that pressing the spindle out of the support will take some ingenuity to do without damaging/bending the backing plate. I take the p brake stuff off, then the 4 nuts that hold the support to the t-arm, remove the support from the t-arm, and then go to the press. You can buy special tools to remove the spindle from the support, BUT...if the bearing(s) has welded to the spindle, or are just really tight, you'll wind up bending or breaking either the tool, or the support....or both.
This is why most folks send them off to be done, or buy reman assemblies. Approve




|UPDATED|7/1/2014 9:58:29 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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Joel Adams
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Re: This was a little scary! (10/17)
 7/1/14 4:06pm
HighDesertDave
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Carson City, NV - USA

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I guess its time to go shopping for reman and compare. Bummer.....I didn't expect the vette to be dead in the garage. I had planned on tearing into my motorcycle to get it back on the road this summer.

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Re: This was a little scary! (11/17)
 7/2/14 1:34pm
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Duncanville, TX - USA

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Dave....you could prolly do them, it just takes patience, and time. Setting the bearings back up is the hard part....they have to be perfect, or dang close to perfect, or you'll be doing them again far sooner than ya want to. The biggest issue with setting up the new bearing clearances is that BOTH bearings are a press fit on the spindle, which makes changing shims to get the correct clearance a multi on-off deal....no fun in that at all. There is a tool that allows you to set the clearance and change shims without  even using the spindle. The tool basically replaces the spindle for the purpose of getting the clearances right. Once you have them right, and know what shims are needed, you can install the spindle with the shims, and yer done. I don't have the "special" tool...but I made one meself that works the same way. Been doing them like that for years, and so far(knock on wood), I haven't had a failure yet.






|UPDATED|7/2/2014 10:34:57 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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Joel Adams
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Re: This was a little scary! (12/17)
 7/2/14 2:50pm
HighDesertDave
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Carson City, NV - USA

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Yes I understand the process. Similar to setting up side shims on a ring and pinion. The big dif is the press fit like you say. At least on a R&P you can pull the carrier out by hand, change shims and try again.
Bairs quoted me $175 per side for rebuilt bearing assebly that they say bolts back into the T-arm. Is that a good price? I'm also questioning the bolt in part...it looks like from the exploded diagram you have to press the inner bearings onto the spindle after its sitting in the t-arm...maybe I'm not seeing the assembly correctly....

On set up, are you looking for a specific amount of drag with a inch pound torque wrench or is there a feeler gauge clearance your working with?

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My Christmas present to ME! Bought Sat 11-30-2013. 72, 350 4 spd, Silver with blue interior...Can't you just hear Pablo Cruz playing in the background?

Re: This was a little scary! (13/17)
 7/2/14 10:20pm
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Duncanville, TX - USA

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#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


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That price sounds really reasonable to me. Thumbs Up

The spindle support IS a separate piece...it has four bolts that are splined into the t-arm, that go thru the support, then the backing plate, with four nuts that hold it all together.





Bearing clearance is set to .001"- .005"...closer to the .001" is better, but .005" is acceptable, and will survive just fine. I think I wound up with .003" on mine when I did them years ago. Shim selection makes the difference.....some kits only have this or that size. I had(at one time) a big box full of those shims of every size ever made. I think factory specs are .001"-.007"

hth Thumbs Up


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Joel Adams
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Re: This was a little scary! (14/17)
 7/3/14 1:33am
HighDesertDave
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Carson City, NV - USA

Vette(s):
Numbers matching 1972 350 4 speed, silver pewter body with blue interior


Joined: 12/4/2013
Posts: 239

Many thanks Joel!I think I will order the rebuilt units. Doing it myself will just take too many of our precious summer weeks, considering I may need to source a spindle if mine is roached. 

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My Christmas present to ME! Bought Sat 11-30-2013. 72, 350 4 spd, Silver with blue interior...Can't you just hear Pablo Cruz playing in the background?

Re: This was a little scary! (15/17)
 7/3/14 12:57pm
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Duncanville, TX - USA

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#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


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The rebuilt supports SHOULD come with new/good spindles already installed. It'd be kinda useless otherwise.... Wacko  LOL

Are they sold core exchange, or outright purchase? If they require your cores, then you might loose a little if the spindle is bad. Same thing if they will be rebuilding your originals.
Swapping the supports shouldn't take too long.....you ought to be able to do them one weekend if yer lazy like I am. If yer not, then prolly one Saturday will be plenty of time. Hardest part is gettin the dadburn parking brake stuff out of the way so you can remove the four nuts that hold the support to the t-arm. You'll need to remove the flange for the halfshaft, or course, but I think you said you already had that off. Thumbs Up

Here's a tip for re-assembly.....one of the pins for the p-brake shoes is "trapped", so it's hard to get it assembled without that turd fallin out. Put the pin thru the backing plate, and sillycone that bCensoredh in there long before putting it all back together....give it eough time for the sillycone to harden somewhat. That will hold the pin in, but still be flexible enough to move it to get the shoes back on. Thumbs Up

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Joel Adams
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Re: This was a little scary! (16/17)
 7/3/14 2:54pm
HighDesertDave
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Carson City, NV - USA

Vette(s):
Numbers matching 1972 350 4 speed, silver pewter body with blue interior


Joined: 12/4/2013
Posts: 239

Ya I was thinking if I ordered bearings/races/seals, pressed it all off, found my spindle was bad then I'm out that time looking for a spindle. So, I just now ordered the bearing assembly allowing me to do the repair with the arm installed. Good tip on the p-brake pin! Now the good news....I had this glimmer of a memory from the PO saying something about having one side of the rear axle worked on. I called him and yes, the lift side bearings have been replace. He had a funny wheel wobble....gee sounds familiar. I also found the receipt for all this. So I'm off to the races, right side only. Yippee! I should have the parts next Friday, I will install Sat and hopefully take the car on a short trip Sunday over the Sierra mountains....glutton for punishment? 

______________
My Christmas present to ME! Bought Sat 11-30-2013. 72, 350 4 spd, Silver with blue interior...Can't you just hear Pablo Cruz playing in the background?

Re: This was a little scary! (17/17)
 7/3/14 2:57pm
HighDesertDave
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Carson City, NV - USA

Vette(s):
Numbers matching 1972 350 4 speed, silver pewter body with blue interior


Joined: 12/4/2013
Posts: 239

Oh hey, Torque specs on the 4 retainer nuts and large inside flange nut? My lame book shows none of this. Obviously not qualified to be working on these parts.
Thanks,
Dave

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My Christmas present to ME! Bought Sat 11-30-2013. 72, 350 4 spd, Silver with blue interior...Can't you just hear Pablo Cruz playing in the background?

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