I would think NAPA would prolly have one. The same basic blower motor was used up into the mid/late '80s....

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Well, just replaced the blower motor with an O'Rielly's $20 blower motor.  Did not fix the problem.  So what is drawing so many amps?  It wasn't doing this 2 months ago.  

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There HAS to be a draw there somewhere to create that much heat. IF the new blower motor did not lessen the amp draw, then there has to be a bad/corroded connection in that wiring, most likely place would be the in-line fuse/fuse holder.
The high speed relay gets it's main 12v source from that wire coming from the horn relay. The horn relay on these early cars is basically a junction box, a place to tap into a solid 12v source for other components of the car...the blower being one of those components. Make sure the connection AT the horn relay is clean, and tight. Then follow the wire all the way back to the high speed relay, looking for anything that don't look right...like swelled insulation, or melting. Take a GOOD look at the crimp connections on the in-line fuse holder...if there is any corrosion(green, or white chalky crap) there, that is a source of resistance in the circuit, and that will create heat. As a test, you may want to run a new wire from the horn relay back to the high speed relay, and see if that eliminates the amp draw. If it does not, then the only place left to go would be the alternator, or voltage regulator....


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Hey Grapevine, TX, Went 2 corvette central.com & found a complete motor 4 your 72. Go online & check it out.

I got one at O'Rielly's for 20 bucks.  Fits perfect.


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Here's another electrical question for us iliterettes.  If the blower is drawing 40 amps, why doesn't it blow the 30 amp fuse?  

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IF the blower motor IS drawing 40 amps, it WILL pop the fuse...unless you got a bad fuse, or mis-marked fuse. Are you just assuming it's pulling 40 amps because that's what the gauge is showing, or have you actually checked the draw? Don't take what the gauge says as what the blower is actually pulling...that's kinda misleading. If the blower were drawing that much amperage, the gauge would actually be going the other direction...towards the dis-charge side. It's starting to look like there may be either an alternator or voltage regulator issue.....

I wish we were a little closer...I'd run out there and help figure this thing out.....we just don't get out your way very often.

|UPDATED|10/15/2012 1:33:47 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

FIXED!  Mostly.

I took the horn relay off the car.  All of the connectors had some paint over spray or something similar on them.  So took some emery paper to all the connectors and the relay terminal.  Took the inline fuse connector apart and cleaned those contacts and put a new fuse in it.

Put it all back together and cranked up the car.  When I went to High, the blower quit blowing.  AAHHHHHHH!!

So, checked all connections and still no high.  .

Then I jiggled the wires to the blower relay, it went click and the blower came on high.  Woohoo!

Checked the ammeter and NO DEFLECTION!  Double Woohoo!!

When I jiggle the connector to the blower relay, it will click on and off.  So now I'll pull it off and check all of the connectors.

I could take the 20 dollar blower motor back to O'Rielly's, but I think I'll just leave it in the car.

I guess it was just bad connections.

Thanks for all the good advice.  Wonder what will be broken next week .


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Glad you found something, Gary!! Wow...what an ordeal, eh? I would suggest you try to find a new relay....those things will get hot inside, and start melting the Bakelite insulator on the bottom. That may be the real problem...the connections on the inside may be failing. You can pull the metal cover off and have a look-see, if you want...just to see if it is in the process of melting or not. If it looks good inside, then cleaning the terminals of the connector might be all ya need. You could also smell the bottom of the relay...if it smells like nasty melted plastic, I'd start looking for a replacement.

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

"if it smells nasty, I'd start looking for a replacement."  

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1973 BB 4-Speed Coupe Project Car

I like how Chevy mounted it right above the exhaust manifold.  No heat there......not!


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