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Topic: Charging the battery

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Charging the battery (1/25)
 5/7/10 10:44am
Adam WartellLifetime Member
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Eagleville, PA - USA

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Used to own a 1979 Corvette now owned by JB79


Joined: 11/1/2001
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When I went to start my Vette a few weeks ago, after sitting for the winter, it wouldn't start. So I charged the battery.  Then I took it to the shop for inspection and left it there a couple weeks (not running). Went to pick it up, it wouldn't start.  Jumped it. Brought it home, put in on the charger.  I put it on a 10A charge till it got charged all the way, then knocked the charger down to 2A.  While in 2A mode, it would stop charging and the "Charge Complete" light would come on.  But every few minutes, the light would turn off, and it would charge again for a minute, then light came back on again and it stopped charging.  It continues to do this.  Is this normal for charging? Or is the battery draining while sitting there which causes the charger to kick on again?

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Charging the battery (2/25)
 5/7/10 11:33am
vettedreams79Lifetime Member
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Grand Blanc, MI - USA

Vette(s):
1979, 350sb, as my kids affectionately call it "shit brown" Corvette purchased in 1996. 84,000+ miles. Not a show car, but I love her just the same.


Joined: 8/7/2002
Posts: 544

Adam:
I'm not that knowledgeable when it comes to mechanics...but, I can offer a couple suggestions from experience.  The "wizards" of the forum will tell you more practical things to do.
 
If you have a Fluke meter I suggest that you check the voltage of the battery at full charge.  It should be about 14.1 volts or thereabouts.  Have someone start the car and still test the battery, you might see a drop at start up, but it should go back to the 14 volt range after it is running.  After running for a while, shut the car off and check voltage again.  If it is still 14 or above your battery is probably good.  If it has dropped below 14 then most likely the battery has a dead cell and needs to be replaced.
 
While the motor is running are you noticing a "glow" to the battery light on the dash?  If so, it could be the voltage regulator on your alternator is going bad.  This is a $6-10 part that can be changed out by you...yes, you...in 1-2 hours.  Ken Styer helped me with this and should be able to walk you through it again.  BTW - you will need FLAT toothpicks for this.
 
If it is not the battery or the regulator then you probably have a bad ground somewhere and the "wizards" will help you to track it down.
 
It's not much, but it's all I can offer you.  Hope you find the problem soon and get it resolved.
Charging the battery (3/25)
 5/7/10 12:05pm
eboLifetime Member
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Holland Patent, NY - USA

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#1 *1980 White, Red interior 14,000 mile #2 *1980 Red, Oyster interior 93,000 miles Resto project car, rebuilt to 383 stroker


Joined: 6/3/2008
Posts: 4420

Boss you must have left a loose bolt on the carb!
 
Well I know your not guna like this but......since it dies when it is just sitting there......I think it may be a short, bad ground, stuck switch. You might not have needed a new battery. Was it acting up last year at all battery wise? We cranked the living crap out of that thing in Mystic.
Do you see any lights on in the interior, under hood, hear any solenoid or relay clicking. Did you fray or crimp any wires while working under the hood?
I'm sure you'll get some questions, but it may be where you worked on something last......and what did you do with that there extra wire that was lying on your carpet a while back?
And no you can not burn it! Remember he's watchin and this is just another test Wink
Evil Smileebo

 



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Charging the battery (4/25)
 5/7/10 12:40pm
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

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#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


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I got news for ya....I ain't NEVER seen a Corvette that wouldn't drain the battery if it sits for very long without a charger of some kind on it...even the new ones.
Depending on what kind of charger you actually have, it may be operating normally. If it's one the "floats" the charge, it will come on/off as needed to keep the battery a a full charge. Also, in my experience(and that of others), 2 amps on a steady charge will overcharge the battery. Most chargers that are designed for "storage" charging are less than 1 amp, usually .75 amp or so.
Have the battery tested and see how it comes thru, then go from there. If you don't have one, get a battery disconnect switch for the car. You'll be glad you did.


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Charging the battery (5/25)
 5/7/10 1:16pm
VetteSpecialties
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Mounds View, MN - USA

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70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe


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All above is true, but the battery going dead in a couple of weeks is too fast.  Either the battery is bad, or there is too much of a leak.  If the battery checks out, or if it holds a charge while disconnected, then connect an accurate digital ammeter and start pulling fuses, etc, until the drain disappears or at least goes way down.  Then work down that circuit until you find the drain.

Larry
Charging the battery (6/25)
 6/16/10 3:21pm
philip
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Marana, AZ - USA

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1982 Silver Blue


Joined: 4/8/2010
Posts: 104

If you do not have a digital meter a test light can be placed between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post. If the lamp lights you have something drawing current and it will kill the battery. If the lamp does not light then more than likely it is time for a new battery.
Make sure you have the dome light and any courtesy lights off so you do not get a false reading from the door being opened.
Charging the battery (7/25)
 6/16/10 9:16pm
stingrayjim jrLifetime Member
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SHELBYVILLE, TN - USA

Vette(s):
1976 L48 auto

1978 L82 4speed

1994 LT1 6speed


Joined: 7/5/2002
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Also, you might check the water level in the battery, if it is possible.... if it has removable caps... if it does not, then, disregard... :)  Reason saying this is that if you can check the level of the water(electrolyte) you can do a few things, one being to see if each cell has water, if it is low, then its been overcharged or if one cell is low, then it could be a good indicator of a bad cell... also, being able to access the water, you can use a hydrometer(any parts store should have them) to test the gravity of the 'water'... a fully charged battery usually reads around 1.1275-1.1300 sg(specific gravity) and it should read the same for all 6 cells,  if there is one cell that reads .0050 or more less than its probably a bad cell...  do take a little caution when using a hydrometer, dont let it drip on anything around, but dont be afraid of it either, its 65% water, 35% sulphuric acid, sooo it won't instantly dissolve I-beams or anything,  but.. painted surfaces beware ;)  and any cotton clothing...leather... nylon(makes it gooey)... etc..etc.. just keep some paper towels handy, and a box of Arm&Hammer ;)  

Also, the voltage on a fully charged battery on a voltmeter is 12.6 to 12.8 volts(after allowing the surface charge to disapate, so if you just took your battery off charge it may read higher, like 13-14 volts, but this is not the nominal voltage... your alternator should however be charging around the 14 volt mark... ).. and when putting a load on it, like starting a vehicle, the voltage should not really drop much below 10.5 volts... obviosly the higher the cold cranking rating the less that voltage drop will be(USUALLY)...  

Just a quick question,  how old is the battery? and what make/model is it?(reason asking is if its a JCI battery, there is a hot stamp code that can tell me(and you) the age of the battery/date of manufacture)... located on the top in one of the 4 corners, a 4 digit alpha-numeric code, i.e. C9RO...the first two letter/number represents the month and year C=April, 9=2009 (as long as you know its within 10 years, cause, they repeat the same alpha/numeric each decade, so, the 9 could be 1999... but you get the idea.. ) wow, i've rambled enough for a while..

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Charging the battery (8/25)
 6/16/10 9:54pm
lukesvetteLifetime Member
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HOWELL, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.


Joined: 5/18/2004
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Adam fixed the discharging issue - he sold his Vette!!Wacko
Charging the battery (9/25)
 6/16/10 10:09pm
stingrayjim jrLifetime Member
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SHELBYVILLE, TN - USA

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1976 L48 auto

1978 L82 4speed

1994 LT1 6speed


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ohhhh yeah... he did sell it didn't he....  geesh,  been a long day at the warehouse, must have sweated out those particular brain cells that lent themselves to memmmm .. ummm.. forgot what i was going to say....

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StingrayJim
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Charging the battery (10/25)
 6/17/10 12:31pm
aceintheholeLifetime Member
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Manteca, CA - USA

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1978,two tone,Metalic Rootbeer & gold 1975 L48 4 speed


Joined: 11/20/2005
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[QUOTE=stingrayjim]ohhhh yeah... he did sell it didn't he....  geesh,  been a long day at the warehouse, must have sweated out those particular brain cells that lent themselves to memmmm .. ummm.. forgot what i was going to say.... [/QUOTE]
 
Your in good company Jim  Confused  Handshake Rolling On The Floor Laughing.


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Charging the battery (11/25)
 6/18/10 2:42pm
LarryT
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Worthington, OH - USA

Vette(s):
1972 Black C3 automatic with red interior. Options include AC, PS, PB, Am/Fm Wonderbar stereo.


Joined: 8/4/2009
Posts: 74

On a related topic, what does everyone think of the Optima batteries?  I have a dead battery and need to replace it.  I was thinking about the Optima, but don't know what size to get.  Can anyone offer some help?
 
Larry
Charging the battery (12/25)
 6/18/10 9:47pm
JPD1stVetteGold Member
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Scotch Plains, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1981 Corvette Coupe, Stock, Black on Black, 4 Spd


Joined: 1/11/2006
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Larry, Last week I replaced my Red Top Optima battery with another one. Got it at NAPA.
A friend of mine used the old Optima battery for two years and then gave it to me. The battery was 8 years old when I replaced it. I always kept it on float when not in use. The old Optima had 900 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA). That much is not needed so I purchased the new Red Top Optma with 720 CCA and it fits in the box. RecommendedThumbs Up


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Charging the battery (13/25)
 6/18/10 11:07pm
LarryT
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Worthington, OH - USA

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1972 Black C3 automatic with red interior. Options include AC, PS, PB, Am/Fm Wonderbar stereo.


Joined: 8/4/2009
Posts: 74

Do you happen to know the part number?  The Red Top Optima is the one I've been looking at, but I want to make sure the one I buys fits.
Charging the battery (14/25)
 6/18/10 11:31pm
stingrayjim jrLifetime Member
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SHELBYVILLE, TN - USA

Vette(s):
1976 L48 auto

1978 L82 4speed

1994 LT1 6speed


Joined: 7/5/2002
Posts: 3942

optima batteries for vettes are going to be either the group 75 side post, or the group 78 side post.  they do make a dual post(top and side post) which will be 75/25 group, or the 34/78 group size...  The 34/78 is approx 10 3/4 inches long whereas the 25/75 will be about 9 inches in legnth.  Personally i'd opted for the 34/78 but it is the higher cca battery.  Persoanally personally, i'd save my money and get a standard 34/78 battery, as we here at where i work don't really see any better performance out of the optima series batteries unless(and i do stress UNLESS) you are using a battery in an extreme condition, such as heavy vibration or such and they are less prone to 'gassing' which in our case of having C3's and the battery is behind the seat, that could be advantagous :) .  Think the main reason we do see optima's last a little longer is that becuase they do cost a bit more, they're owners tend to take a little more care of them.. :) 

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StingrayJim
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Charging the battery (15/25)
 6/19/10 7:00am
LarryT
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Worthington, OH - USA

Vette(s):
1972 Black C3 automatic with red interior. Options include AC, PS, PB, Am/Fm Wonderbar stereo.


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Thanks for the info.  The battery that was in there was cheap and died before it's time.  I do use a Battery Tender, but I connect it via the cigarette lighter now.  I tried to connect it directly to the battery, but the existing battery is not a dual post and putting the clips under the terminal screws may have been what killed it early.  The cigarette lighter route should allow better connection for the battery's real purpose -- starting the car. Smile
Charging the battery (16/25)
 6/19/10 7:39am
lukesvetteLifetime Member
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HOWELL, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.


Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812

Got a diehard gold that is 4 years old and not a single complaint!
Charging the battery (17/25)
 6/19/10 9:31pm
JPD1stVetteGold Member
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Scotch Plains, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1981 Corvette Coupe, Stock, Black on Black, 4 Spd


Joined: 1/11/2006
Posts: 230

The P/N on the receipt is N9975/25 RED as Jim says 75/25 group.
I looked up the 1981 GM specs~ Battery SAE Designation No. and/or capacity = 115  minute Reserve Capacity. This Red top has 90 so it's a little less than the specs.
Did you go online and look up Optima Battery? Recommend it to find their recommended battery. 
 
Jeff
JPD1stVette2010-06-19 18:34:29

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Charging the battery (18/25)
 6/20/10 12:13pm
philip
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Marana, AZ - USA

Vette(s):
1982 Silver Blue


Joined: 4/8/2010
Posts: 104

Group 75/25 is the direct fit, if you have a high powered stereo or/and other high power usage accessories the yellow top D75/25 is a better choice.
The biggest advantages to the Optima battery is the construction. Besides being very rugged it does not have gases that vent from the battery. This feature alone is worth the extra money. Without gases being emitted there is no risk of explosion and there is no corrosion to the battery mount area or in the cables. The cranking amps are not rated at 32 degrees like other batteries but at zero degrees. The only maintenance necessary on these batteries is to clean the dust off of them.

In the 20 + years I have used them in my own vehicles and installed them in customers cars I only had one that was defective and it was replaced at no charge. Sams Club and Costco both have a very good price on them. I buy mine at my local NAPA, but I get a really good discount from them.

The red top is right for general automotive use and should give you 6-8 years of service easily. The maintainer I would recommend is the Battery Tender Plus. It comes with 2 sets of leads. One set can be permanently attached to your battery so it is just plugs in easily when it is needed. It also has the normal clip leads for use on other applications.
My last 2 red tops went 7 and 8 years. The blue top on my car trailer that runs the winch that was thoroughly abused by running it dead before charging on many occasions and lasted 9 years and 7 months.
The 82 currently has an Optima knock off called the Orbital previously sold by NAPA. Has the same characteristics but never seem to last as long as a red top. I used 2 and had to have both warranted so until it dies again it will be used.

Product specs for the 75/25 red top..http://www.optimabatteries.com/_media/documents/specs/75_25_082304.pdf
Charging the battery (19/25)
 6/20/10 12:40pm
rraider1
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Woodland, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1977 T-Top,350,Auto Black Ruby Pearl,Steeroids R&P conversion


Joined: 10/14/2003
Posts: 1165

Another option for keeping the battery charged is you can hook the charger up to the big red wire at the Alt and ground at the adjusting bracket, my charger has a 2 amp setting. you do not need to hook up at the battery.
Charging the battery (20/25)
 6/20/10 11:45pm
wetvet
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Lake Oswego, OR - USA

Vette(s):
1972 Steel Cities Gray T Top. Original Owner, Original Paint and Interior. The running gear has been rebuilt. only 250,000 miles on the clock..


Joined: 10/17/2003
Posts: 553

I keep that "Battery Tender" on mine, when not in use.

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Charging the battery (21/25)
 6/21/10 12:09am
ParrotHeadLifetime Member
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Gresham, OR - USA

Vette(s):
1977 Maroon T-Top


Joined: 2/10/2007
Posts: 185

Red top in the Pony 3 years with no complaints. Ditto on the "other" fiberglass toy (marine diesel).  Over 9 years and much abuse - still going strong.   When the 'vette needs one (likely soon) it'll be the same.


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Charging the battery (22/25)
 6/21/10 7:50am
vettejackLifetime Member
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Titusville, FL - USA

Vette(s):
1977 Coupe (White), 2006 Convertible (Victory Red). NCM Life Member #2221.


Joined: 12/19/2007
Posts: 154

I still have the 'cannot start the car at the most inopportune time' gremlins! 
 
I left home perfectly ok this past Saturday morning (19 June). Ran the A/C the entire time...having the car just come out of a new interior replacement. Drove up I-95 to Daytona (about an hours' driving time from my house). I stopped at the bank in Daytona for some quick cash from the ATM. I had to park the car because the machine was to high for me to reach LOL from a Corvette.
 
Once back at the car (the '82 Vette), it would not start...dead...no clicks, no warning...just a battery light that remained on at each attempt to start was made, then would go off when the key was returned to the off position. The car's meter showed no more than 10 to 11 amps...knowing this was not enough to start the car.
 
The battery is less than a year old (bought it new for the same reason I'm writing here) and the alternator in about a year and a half old (for the same reason here again). The belt is tight and correct...another words, the 'v' in the belt is correct for the alternator. The bolts holding in the battery cable to the side post are tight. I keep the battery on a tender as well when garaged. The park/neutral switch on the gear shift knob works fine too.
 
So, after a jump start, (started right up) I drove home.
 
This 'gremlin' picks its own time to act up...there is no indication of problems at any time while driving. I keep a set of cables in the car just in case.
 
Is this something I have to live with? Probably so. A perfectly working, starting, performing car most days, I find it odd I get this every now and then. Does any body else here experience the same sorta problem??
nasajack2010-06-21 05:36:56

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Charging the battery (23/25)
 6/21/10 11:03am
philip
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Marana, AZ - USA

Vette(s):
1982 Silver Blue


Joined: 4/8/2010
Posts: 104

Since you have clean and tight connections at the battery start watching the voltmeter more when driving and if it is under 12 volts when running it may not start after it is shut off. It normally should be 13.5 - 14.2 while the engine is running.
10.5 volts is consider a dead battery by the manufacturers. If it starts when you leave your house it could be the the regulator in the alternator is intermittent. Sometimes allowing a charge and other times not. Since you keep it on a tender the battery charge would have lasted about the length of your drive  before running down to the no start condition.
After checking the red wire connection and the plug in to make sure they are tight and clean I would have the alternator checked for output, or if it has a warranty just replace it.

Charging the battery (24/25)
 6/21/10 11:14am
rraider1
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Woodland, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1977 T-Top,350,Auto Black Ruby Pearl,Steeroids R&P conversion


Joined: 10/14/2003
Posts: 1165

When you have them test the Alt while in the car turn on the AC to see if any difference, you should also check the wires at the starter, not sure for the 82 but I believe the big red wire from the Alt goes to the starter and meets the positive wire from the battery

Charging the battery (25/25)
 6/21/10 2:04pm
LarryT
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Worthington, OH - USA

Vette(s):
1972 Black C3 automatic with red interior. Options include AC, PS, PB, Am/Fm Wonderbar stereo.


Joined: 8/4/2009
Posts: 74

Since you have a '72, how do you have your Battery Tender hooked up?  I worry about the wires from the cigarette lighter, but didn't see and alternative.
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