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Topic: Good news and bad news

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Good news and bad news (1/36)
 12/13/12 12:54am
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

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Good news: I think my battery is OK.
Bad news: something else is wrong.  

I haven't driven or started it for about 3 weeks.  Batt has been disconnected with the quick release, but it was NOT on the trickle charger.  Last night out of curiosity I hit the key for a second or two before I hooked up the charger - plenty of cranking power.  In the past a few days of sitting with the batt connected and it will kill it.  So that tells me there's some parasitic drain going on - hmmm.  Any thoughts about where to start or what the most likely culprit is?  Factory alarm maybe?  


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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Re: Good news and bad news (2/36)
 12/13/12 1:25am
F4GaryGold Member
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I don't know Bo about electricity, but you could try testing for current at the fuse box with the ignition off.

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Re: Good news and bad news (3/36)
 12/13/12 7:23am
crossfire1982
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Im not an electrical guy either but some of the guys here are will probably chime in shortly.  Instead of giving my own advise, Im posting a link to a pretty good electrical troubleshooting post from another forum.  If I offend the forum gods by posting from another forum I apologize in advance.  Scroll down a bit to the post by ...ROGER...  Hope this will help you some.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-tech-performance/1783718-battery-dies-in-my-82-cant-locate-cause.html
Re: Good news and bad news (4/36)
 12/13/12 10:16am
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Parasitic draw on these old turds will definitely drain a battery after a few days....most of us have just come to accept it, and use the quick dis-connects on the batteries.
A couple of the most common drain problems are the clock, and the alternator. The alarm systems can also cause excessive drain, but there are usually other symptoms associated with that, such as an alarm that don't work, or blows the horn all the time. Un-plugging the relay will tell if it is an alarm issue.
Aftermarket stereos and other additions can also be a source of excessive drain.
These cars are old....with old wiring and stuff. Battery drain is part of the joy of owning them....LOL NOT!


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Re: Good news and bad news (5/36)
 12/14/12 1:29am
daveo76
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Thanks, guys!  Good info.  Joel, you might be on to something with the clock.  When I was putting everything together this summer I fiddled around with my two mechanical clocks and got one of them working.  It even worked for a few weeks or so after I got it in.  But now it don't.  Possibly it's still causing a draw?  Chip, your link to the "other forum" was helpful, too.  (don't feel bad, I lurk there sometimes, but you do have to wade through a lot of infighting).  They mentioned the mechanical clocks on there, too.  I'll get out the test light and start playing around with stuff.  

In any case, a quartz clock conversion is high on the to-do list now for this winter/spring (even if it's not the source of my current problems)


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Re: Good news and bad news (6/36)
 12/14/12 4:08am
crossfire1982
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Dave, you are right about the "other forum", lots of good information there but also lots of egos and attitudes.  I lurk but rarely post there and consider C3VR my home, Im comfortable here.  Good luck with finding your current draw.
Re: Good news and bad news (7/36)
 12/14/12 8:35am
chances rLifetime Member
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In my past experience, I have found that it can often be caused by a faulty starter.  A dead spot.  I am not saying that the starter will even show any signs of an issue even.  But it will draw your battery down.  The best way to know is to have it tested.  Which is a PITA.  You can disconnect the positive lead from the solenoid, and let it sit.  If it does not drain then you have ruled out the soleniod. And a short in the switch on the steering column.  Then disconnect the main battery cable and do the same. Sit for a couple of days and see if it drains. If it doesn't then the starter IS likely the issue.
 
Then check anything that may be direct wired to the battery. (ie. Stereo equipment, etc.)
 
It could be a dead cell in the battery as well.  Have had them show a full charge, but when you start cranking on it, that dead cell will show its ugly head.  I always look at a battery issue as the culprit if it is more than 3 years old.  Does not matter what the rating is.  After three years it is russian roulette.  If it is taking a charge everyday, by driving, or trickle charging, you won't notice it.  But a dead cell will drain the battery while it sits.  Whether it is connected to the system or not.  Have it checked.  They usually do not charge for it, and if you have quick connects, they can check it in the car with no issue at the local parts house.  Most of them anyway.
 
Hope this helps.
Mike


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Re: Good news and bad news (8/36)
 12/14/12 4:34pm
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Mine can sit for two months with everything connected and still start.  You don't have to live with it.
 
Get an inexpensive amp meter if you dont have one.   Many digital meters will read amps, some won't.
 
Disconnect the battery and connect the amp  meter in line between the battery and the cable you disconnected.  If you are over 0.3 amp, you have a problem.  The lower the better.   0.5 amp will kill the battery overnight.  Ideally it should be less than 0.1 amp.
 
A volt meter will NOT work for this.  I will avoid the explantion at this time.
 
Now watch the amp meter and start disconnecting fuses, one at a time.  If at any point the meter reading drops, you have found the circuit with the problem, and you can start disconnecting items on that circuit until you find the draw.  Be sure to have the interior lights turned off or they will show a draw that is not there when you shut the doors and walk away.
 
If all fuses are out and you still have the electrical draw,  disconnect the alternator, and then the starter.  By this time you will have found the problem.   It may take you a few minutes, or a few hours, but you will know for sure, and you can correct the cause.
 
Happy hunting.
Re: Good news and bad news (9/36)
 12/14/12 11:55pm
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NO disrespect to anyone, but....I'm not getting this one...
Disconnecting the cable from the starter will effectively kill ALL power to the car, so...there would be no drain at all...kinda like disconnecting the cable from the battery. Unless I'm missing something from the Zenmaster's, or the previous posts. Unless you keep the pink feed wires connected to the disconnected main starter cable, that is....
Did I miss something, or is my pea brain really that damaged from the '70s....Wacko LOL LOL

Using an amp meter and pulling fuses will certainly find the cause of excessive drain....but I'm just too dang lazy...and not flexible enough to hang upside down under the dash pullin fuses....LOLLOLLOL

Good to see ya on the forums again, Ken! Hug


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Re: Good news and bad news (10/36)
 4/12/13 1:53am
daveo76
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So I finally started doing some diagnosis on this problem.  It looks like it's the courtesy light circuit.  With an ammeter inline on one of the batt cables I pull about .33 amps with the doors and hood closed and all (that I know of) courtesy lights off.  If I pull that fuse, I show no current draw at all with the same conditions.  Any thoughts how that particular circuit would draw current with all the lights off?  Is there something else on that circuit?

Oh, and the clock has not been plugged in for any of these tests.  I was going to put my center cluster back together tonight but decided I better do this diagnosis first while I have access to the back of that panel.  

Thanks guys!


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Re: Good news and bad news (11/36)
 4/12/13 12:44pm
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Make sure the light in the storage compartment is OFF....those things can stay on sometimes.
Other things in that circuit? Heck yeah....ciggy lighter, and the light for the clock are both on that same fuse/circuit. Ermm


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Re: Good news and bad news (12/36)
 4/12/13 1:36pm
rraider1
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courtesy light timer could be the culpret
Re: Good news and bad news (13/36)
 4/12/13 4:52pm
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

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Thanks Joel and Bob. I'll check the thins you mention - specially cig lighter and compartment light. Bob, I don't think mine has a timer - lights go off as soon as doors are closed. Two other questions: could it be the "door ajar" light? Or the "key in" buzzer? Both have had some issues lately.

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Re: Good news and bad news (14/36)
 4/12/13 10:41pm
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Yep...the ZX2 "Convenience" option, which included the dome light delay, dint go into the cars until '77. Thumbs Up

The "Key in" buzzer could certainly cause a problem, but you should be able to hear it...and it is kinda in the same circuit as the courtesy lights, since it uses the same door pin-switch to provide the ground for the buzzer. However, the buzzer gets it's power from the brake light circuit....which is on a different fuse.
The "Door Ajar" light should also be tied into the door pin switch circuit somehow, but it aint showin on the wiring diagram, for some reason....Wacko


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Re: Good news and bad news (15/36)
 4/14/13 12:55pm
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

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1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.


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Thanks, Joel.  I've narrowed this down now in that I know it's not the clock or the lighter as both are unplugged and I still draw .33 amps.  I'm guessing I've got some damaged orange wire somewhere in the courtesy light circuit that's allowing that amount of current to go to ground.  Or if the key-in buzzer or door ajar lights are somehow drawing the current maybe that could be it. More diagnosis - yippee.  

As an aside, I think the "clock light" part of that wiring diagram is a misprint.  I think it should be clock/lighter.  If the light for the clock was on that circuit it would be on all the time.  The clock light is on the same circuit as all the other gauge lights - gray wires.  The clock itself and the lighter are both on always-hot orange wires, which makes sense.  


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Re: Good news and bad news (16/36)
 4/16/13 1:56am
daveo76
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Sorry for the many posts on this topic, but I think I'm getting closer.  Underneath the steering column there is a connector for the harness that leads to the back of the car - tail lights, cargo area light, fuel gauge tank unit, etc.  Unplugging this connector makes the current drain go away. It also turns off the cargo area light and the storage compartment light but leaves the front courtesy lights on.  Since I previously identified that removing the courtesy light fuse also eliminates the current drain I think I pretty much now know that the drain is either in the wiring between that connector and the lights or there is a problem with one of the lights themselves.  Sound reasonable?  Now to locate that fault exactly and fix it... 

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Re: Good news and bad news (17/36)
 4/16/13 7:30am
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Dave-
Thanks for doing the leg work on this - I too have a vicious drain & must disconnect overnite.  We tried checking some of the more obvious items, but never went through the entire fuse box...(unlike Joel, I AM flexible enough to get under the dash Wink LOL  but have not taken the time to do a full diagnostic).  I'm curious to see where your search leads you.  Keep us posted!


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Re: Good news and bad news (18/36)
 4/16/13 12:25pm
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Bobbi's78 said:...(unlike Joel, I AM flexible enough to get under the dash Wink LOL

And I have the pics to prove it.....Evil Smile  LOL
It's good that you have narrowed it down to the rear harness. My money is on the storage compartment light....try removing that bulb and see how that works on the drain. If it doesn't change, then you may very well have a small chaffed wire somewhere in that harness, quite possibly where it runs under the trim plate next to the seat.


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Re: Good news and bad news (19/36)
 4/16/13 9:47pm
Bobbi's78Lifetime Member
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Touche' Joel Clap

Dave-  I forgot to mention that originally the car couldn't even sit for a couple of hours without draining the battery.  We tracked it down to a dealer installed LoJack which was tied into the glove box light & was hot all the time (the actual unit was up under the dash taped to the ductwork below the speaker).  Needless to say we ripped THAT out. 


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Re: Good news and bad news (20/36)
 4/16/13 10:33pm
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Bobbi's78 said:  Touche' Joel Clap


ShockedShocked Wha'd you call me??! Angry

LOL Jest for that.....


Tongue
I hate diggin for parasitic drains...such a pain...disconnecting components one at a time, especially if you have to have the door closed, considering where the dang fuse box is on these cars....Angry




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Re: Good news and bad news (21/36)
 4/17/13 2:17am
daveo76
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Whoa - quite a pic!  I've been in that exact pose more than a few times in the last week!  

I have a pic of my own now:



What's this relay looking thing?  I think it or the wiring downstream from it is where my problem lies.  It's mounted to the back side of the bulk head behind the seats - accessed by removing the tray from the pass side storage compartment.  It's got a three prong connector, pink, white and black (two on the same prong).  The pink has 12 volts between it and ground (both the white and the blacks appear to go to ground).  It makes a loud click when hooking up the battery - always has.  Can't seem to find it represented in the wiring diagram.  But if I disconnect it my current drain is gone.  0.00 on the ammeter!  


|UPDATED|4/16/2013 11:17:42 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Re: Good news and bad news (22/36)
 4/17/13 7:24am
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That, my friend, is the relay for the Alarm. So...if it is staying energized,  sounds like you have an alarm that is always armed, for whatever reason. Goody! MORE troubleshooting! Angry
Or...if you're not interested in the alarm working, just leave the relay out.Wink


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Re: Good news and bad news (23/36)
 4/17/13 11:08am
daveo76
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Excellent!  Problem solved at least for now - think I'll leave it out.  Haven't had a working alarm since I bought the car 11 years ago.  PO said it would drain the battery if it was used - guess he was right!  I messed with the fender switch sometime in the last year in a half-hearted attempt to get the system working, but it looks like all I did was make it so it was always energized.  Eventually I will get the system working, but will save that project for another time!

Thanks Joel and others for the advice and encouragement!


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Re: Good news and bad news (24/36)
 4/17/13 11:52am
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Dave, do you have the Service Manual for you car? It has the alarm system troubleshooting info in it. I have the info too, if ya need it. Wink

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Re: Good news and bad news (25/36)
 4/17/13 9:41pm
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So glad you found it Dave! Now I might know why the alarm switch is missing on mine inside the front fender; probably was draining the battery! I still have the relay and flasher in the jack compartment but no switch behind the key lock on the fender.

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Re: Good news and bad news (26/36)
 4/17/13 10:07pm
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Dave - Glad you found something - I'm curious now.....going out to pull the tray out of my compartments to take a look.
 
Joel...it was only a matter of time before that made it on the forum...Embarrassed   or was it out here before & I missed it? LOL


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Re: Good news and bad news (27/36)
 4/17/13 10:49pm
daveo76
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Thanks all!  I'm glad I found it, too!  Now I can start putting stuff back together and hopefully get it out on the road for a show here two Saturdays from now.  

Joel: I don't have the service manual.  I just have the AIM and a Haynes manual.  The Haynes does have wiring diagrams, but I don't think it has troubleshooting for the alarm.  Any chance you could email it?  I'll PM you with my address.

Greg: that fender switch is problematic.  I'm 90% sure that's the problem with mine.  It's one of those kind of switches that its default position is closed if I remember right.  The little button on it has to be under constant pressure to keep it open.  It's the same switch that is used in both headlights, I think to trigger the warning light if they're not popping up.  Good luck to you in getting the alarm working.  Always been on my long range plan....

Bobbi: Thanks for the encouragement and good luck to you, too!  Electrical drain is a pain!  But not an insurmountable problem if you know how to use a multimeter.  


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Re: Good news and bad news (28/36)
 4/17/13 11:02pm
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20126

Case75 said: So glad you found it Dave! Now I might know why the alarm switch is missing on mine inside the front fender; probably was draining the battery! I still have the relay and flasher in the jack compartment but no switch behind the key lock on the fender.

Just to be clear, the key cylinder you insert the key into on the fender IS the alarm arming switch. The other, second switch is the "Anti tamper" switch. Its purpose is to set the alarm off if anyone removes, or otherwise tampers with the key switch. The key cylinder switch will have two wires coming right out of it, and the anti-tamper switch(which is in fact the same switch for the headlight warning) fits into a bracket underneath the key switch, and is pressed up tight against the key switch.

Barb, that fun pic has been posted here before....you musta missed it...LOL

Dave, I'll get what info I have together and send it your way.



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Joel Adams
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Re: Good news and bad news (29/36)
 4/18/13 6:55pm
dyoes
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Zachary, LA - USA

Vette(s):
1974 L-48 Auto. Just your basic Vette. GM crate motor w/vortec heads and intake. Crane cam. Scorpion rockers, Edelbrock carb. Lots of parts still in boxes... :(


Joined: 1/27/2013
Posts: 201

The harness that goes to the rear has one larger gauge orange wire which feeds both the box light and the main interior light (they work independently ground wires).  There is a splice in the stock harness in that bundle, if I remember right, under the door sill plate about mid-way of the seat, and the larger gauge wire turns into two smaller gauge orange wires that go to the interior and box lights.  My interior light experienced a minor short, and that orange wire actually melted all the way up wire to the splice but didn't blow the fuse.  I was working on the car with the door open, and realized I had a problem when the interior filled with smoke.  :(

Ironically, the two footwell lights (on the same fuse) continued to work.  It was a good demonstration that a short can draw current but leave the rest of the circuit functional.  Was enough current to melt the wire, but not blow the fuse.  Those orange wires are hot even with the doors closed, but current won't normally flow unless the doors are open which makes the ground path (or the small switch is made closed when you open the storage compartment).

Long story short: if that wire has a nick in it and it finds a ground, you'll slowly drain the battery.

The rear harness unplugs close to the fuse box.  You can pull it, remove the orange wire with a small screwdriver and plug the rest back in.  That'll disable the rear two lights.  See if you still have a current draw. 

Sorry this is so wordy.  But I'm an Engineer: why use five words when five hundred will do?  :)


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Re: Good news and bad news (30/36)
 4/20/13 3:48pm
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.


Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 857

Thanks for the info and advice - definitely had planned to isolate the two lights in the back but now I am fairly confident it's the alarm circuit which uses the same fuse. Joel sent me the wiring diagram for the system and it seems simple enough that I think even I will be able to troubleshoot and hopefully get it working like new. (I am an engineer, too, but not an electrical engineer). I ordered a new anti-tamper switch from Bair's yesterday - will start there! Would love to someday get all the retro 70's features of this car working someday, like the rinky-dink alarm system and all the buzzers and warning lights - getting there one step at a time.

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Re: Good news and bad news (31/36)
 4/20/13 3:56pm
dyoes
Former Member

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Zachary, LA - USA

Vette(s):
1974 L-48 Auto. Just your basic Vette. GM crate motor w/vortec heads and intake. Crane cam. Scorpion rockers, Edelbrock carb. Lots of parts still in boxes... :(


Joined: 1/27/2013
Posts: 201

daveo76 said:  Would love to someday get all the retro 70's features of this car working someday, like the rinky-dink alarm system and all the buzzers and warning lights - getting there one step at a time.


When I got around to replacing my door pin switch, I was delighted to hear the key buzzer working!  Crude and obnoxious, but definitely 70's. 

Then I replaced the lock cylinder in the steering column, and the key buzzer works no more...  :(  And I'm not taking that column apart again unless I have to!


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"Let them that don't want none have memories of not gettin' any."
- Brother Dave Gardner

Re: Good news and bad news (32/36)
 4/20/13 4:52pm
Case75
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, - Canada

Vette(s):
1975 Corvette 383 stroker w/Patriot 190 heads, Eagle stroker kit, Comp 279TH7 cam, DUI distributor, Edelbrock 7116 intake, Edelbrock 1806 carb, Hedman Hedders, TH400 w/TCI Breakaway 2400 stall, Transgo 1-2 shift kit.


Joined: 6/19/2012
Posts: 230

My key buzzer works...you can have it if you want. It is a very annoying sound! I'd like a copy of that alarm wiring if at all possible. It's on my to do list someday. I may only need the ant-tamper switch. I replaced the headlight warning switches last year; now I don't have the annoying warning light glowing at me in the dark at night telling me my headlights are not up when they are. My door ajar switches work good. Greg.

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Build Date: May 7, 1975. 383 w/267 RWHP/310 RWTQ
Re: Good news and bad news (33/36)
 4/20/13 10:44pm
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20126

Greg...."You've got Mail!!!"  Wink

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    

My Link


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Re: Good news and bad news (34/36)
 4/21/13 8:51am
Case75
Former Member

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, - Canada

Vette(s):
1975 Corvette 383 stroker w/Patriot 190 heads, Eagle stroker kit, Comp 279TH7 cam, DUI distributor, Edelbrock 7116 intake, Edelbrock 1806 carb, Hedman Hedders, TH400 w/TCI Breakaway 2400 stall, Transgo 1-2 shift kit.


Joined: 6/19/2012
Posts: 230

Adams' Apple said: Greg...."You've got Mail!!!"  Wink



Thanks so much Joel! Your a wealth of knowledge! Greg.

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Build Date: May 7, 1975. 383 w/267 RWHP/310 RWTQ
Re: Good news and bad news (35/36)
 4/22/13 12:06am
daveo76
Former Member

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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.


Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 857

My key buzzer worked before I replaced the ignition lock cylinder and it worked most of the time after, but sometimes it would stay on even after taking the key out.  A little jiggle would turn it off.  Now I get no buzz at all until I turn the key and the seat belt buzzer turns on.  So either the switch inside the column has failed (my guess) or the buzzer is fried.  I might take the steering wheel off to troubleshoot, but then again, maybe not.  Wink

______________

 

1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Re: Good news and bad news (36/36)
 4/22/13 12:11am
dskopp
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Oak Creek, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops, Going to remain as Stock as possible. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vetts Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!!


Joined: 5/21/2008
Posts: 1958

daveo76 said: Good news: I think my battery is OK.
Bad news: something else is wrong.  

I haven't driven or started it for about 3 weeks.  Batt has been disconnected with the quick release, but it was NOT on the trickle charger.  Last night out of curiosity I hit the key for a second or two before I hooked up the charger - plenty of cranking power.  In the past a few days of sitting with the batt connected and it will kill it.  So that tells me there's some parasitic drain going on - hmmm.  Any thoughts about where to start or what the most likely culprit is?  Factory alarm maybe?  



Possibility of Alarm draining the system.  I have paper about electrical drains and shorts.  Send me a pm with your email and I will send it to you!!  Sure it is not a bad cell in the battery??

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