It began several months ago- '74Shark2010-11-02 11:15:43

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load test the hot wire to the starter.If it shows good, see if you get voltage to the start relay wire and work your way back till you do.don't just replace parts, be a tech and work it thru you will have it and be able to say I found the problem myself.(with the help from your friends at C 3)

I have no clue how to do that. Can you walk me through it, or else 110 (1 hr) to find it which is ok.

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Hey wildman how goes it..doesn't sound like you are having a good day..so you hit the key and nothing happens or do you at least get a radio or lights or maybe even a mild click sound..well start at the battery and work your way to the starter..make sure the connection at the battery is really good..if it has the side terminal connection make sure that it is clean and don't try to over tighten it..you can strip them out very easy..get new bolts if need be..have the battery checked and maybe the alternator as well..ok now we go to the starter..if you have a test light clip the ground side to the block and put the point on the little wire on the starter that actuates the solenoid..attempt to start the car as usual and see if it lights up..if it doesn't then you have a control problem..ie..clutch or other switch or keyed problem..if it does you got a crap starter or a bad battery ground or power wire..do this and let me know how it goes..110 an hour is a lot so let's fix this thing!
Rich

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My first parade at Carlisle 2010

Ok I am going out on a limb here but only because I had it happen to me.

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Corvettes and women are the same...You want to make love to them but they keep breaking down.

Use a test light, or preferably a volt meter on the PURPLE wire at the starter solenoid. It will be the smaller terminal closest to the engine block. Turn the key to "Start" and see if the test light lights up, or you get at least 11 volts on a voltmeter. If not, then you have either a break in the wire from the ignition switch, or a fault with the neutral safety switch(clutch switch).
The starter interlock can be over-ridden by unplugging the seat switches under the seats, but you have dis-abled your's anyway.
 The clutch switch can be tested with a test light/volt meter, also. You should have 12v at one of the two terminals with the key on. With the clutch depressed, you should have 12v on both terminals. If you don't have 12v one at least one of the terminals of the clutch switch, you may have an ignition switch issue.
Make sure your floor mats(if you have them) are not bunched up under the clutch pedal, keeping it from going all the way down.
Adams' Apple2010-11-03 06:40:31

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Guys the starter was just replaced and all connections and grounds were checked.

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The procedure for starting the car is very specific. Sit down, fasten seat belt, then crank. The relay under the hood really has nothing to do with whether or not the interlock is disabled. It's only purpose is to allow starting the car one time if the interlock has a malfunction.
The starter interlock logic module is in the rear compartment, driver side, in the very back, under the carpet. Unplug that module, and see what happens.

You say your clutch safety switch rod is hanging...that's a problem. That switch has to make contact in order for the ignition switch voltage to get to the starter solenoid. I would suggest jumpering the two wires at the clutch switch, and give that a try. IF that corrects the starting problem, either repair the switch/rod issue, or leave the jumper in until you have time to do it.

[quote='74Shark]It wasn't disabled with the seat connections dissconnected because one day (before the current problem) the buzzer sounded, seat belt light was on and no start...[/quote]

IF this is true, then you have a wiring issue with the seat switch wiring shorted together somewhere, OR the Interlock Logic Module is fried. Un-plugging the interlock logic module will completely disable the system, and allow the car to start "normally".
Adams' Apple2010-11-03 19:28:30

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Sounds good. The rod issue might be it as I'm not sure when it dissconnected. I was told when you put a jumper wire in the remote start it disables the interlock yes?

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Can you please explain how to disable the clutch switch?

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The relay under the hood is only part of the system. It only comes into play if there is another problem, such as a faulty seat switch. Pushing on the button will allow you to start the car once...after that, you'd have to push it every time you wanted to start the car. You can remove the relay, but the system will still be active...you'd just be stuck, with no "over-ride" mechanism.

The Factory Service Manual has a whole chapter devoted to the diagnostics on the system, and a neat troubleshooting chart.

To by-pass/"disable" the clutch switch, simply tie the two wires together going to the switch connector..either with a jumper wire in the connector itself, or cut/splice the wires together.
It would be best to get the switch/rod back where it belongs, for safety reasons, but it's fine to by-pass it to find out where your no-start problem is.


This system is only installed on the '74 cars, and some very early '75s. In fact, all cars sold in the US in '74 were required by law to have it...the same system is in the Impala, Caprice, even Camaros. The other car manufacturers had their own versions of it, but they all had the seat-belt starter interlock system. Another brilliant idea from the minds of the safety nazis...Thanks RALPH...
The only good thing about this goofy system is, it's a dang good theft deterrent!

I just e-mailed you the wiring diagrams...they may help.
Adams' Apple2010-11-04 05:15:39

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Ok. I figured out how to start it at the ignition switch, but first here's what I found. The interlock harness in the back behind driver's seat behind carpet. Two wires corroded off smaller connecter. black wire still attached. Unplugged the connecter. Next, under the steering wheel by the clutch switch area a small connecter with a thick wire looped (jumper wire?) looks like the clutch switch was bypassed?? '74Shark2010-11-05 12:13:08

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Sounds like the switch on the lower column is out of adjustment or loose. By working it in ACC first it may be pulling the switch housing far enough back to allow the rod from the lock cylinder to move enough to close the start contacts.
The adjustment is easy, getting to it may be tough. Loosen the 2 mounting screws and with the key in the on position move the switch until the car powers up. Tighten the 2 mounting screws and check for functionality in all the switch positions.

A few months ago, I was having a hard time starting up my car. I took it to a few repair shops and they thought the problem was a bad starter. Then I took it to Firestone and they diagnosed it as a bad neutral safety switch. Finally, after having the problem for several months, my car refused to start.
Firestone ordered the neutral safety switch, easily installed it in a day and the car is starting up just fine. The neutral safety switch is what keeps the car from starting until you push down on the clutch.
I have a 5 speed, manual transmission,  Thought I would share this just in case there are others that might have the same problem.

Way to go Susan!!  You may have hit the nail on the head!!  Keep going, Joey will make a mechanic out of you yet!!

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