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Topic: 1982 starts but won't run

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1982 starts but won't run (3/13)
 7/29/10 10:36pm
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20128

Sounds like possibly the fuel pump is not working properly, or the fuel filter may be clogged up. Then again, you say you were working under there, so you may have moved a wire, or loosened a connector without knowing it. Check ALL of the connections on the throttle bodies, as well as the distributor.

Welcome to C3VR, too


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Joel Adams
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1982 starts but won't run (4/13)
 7/29/10 10:49pm
dskopp
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Oak Creek, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops, Going to remain as Stock as possible. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vetts Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!!


Joined: 5/21/2008
Posts: 1958

Ya, what Joel said.  I did not think of the fuel pump.  But then again, I am not the all powerful Joel !!!  Rolling On The Floor Laughing

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1982 starts but won't run (5/13)
 7/30/10 11:53am
vettejackLifetime Member
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Titusville, FL - USA

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1977 Coupe (White), 2006 Convertible (Victory Red). NCM Life Member #2221.


Joined: 12/19/2007
Posts: 154

I have an '82 and ran into a similar issue about 6 months ago while the car sat around getting a new interior.

For a while, the car would not stay running, yet what fuel did get to the throttle bodies, was quickly consumed within seconds. We then started the troubleshooting and while we had the chance, the mechanic changed out the idle air controls and replaced the coolant sensor. Although fuel continued reaching the injectors, the fix was a false positive. The car would start, and would immediately consume what fuel made it to the engine, then shut down. The fix??

The fuel pump's plumbing: once we decided to check it, we found that one of the teflon clamps used to secure the rubber hose to the pump had failed. This caused most fuel pumped to cycle right back into the tank, with some reaching the engine, giving enough to start but not be maintained. So, we replaced the factory teflon clamp with stainless and while we were at it, changed the rubber hoses as well, along with the pump seal on top of the tank. Whaolaaaaaaaa...problem not running fixed!
 
And come to find out, the car ran a bit better with the coolant sensor and idle air controls being changed as well...because our initial idea of preventive maintenance concerning those two items simply made sense to do as well at the time.
 
A couple of things u can eliminate if the car was running just fine before your troubles. As with my '82, the mechanic and I eliminated the injectors as a duel fail (extremely rare as far as we were concerned), and the air idle controllers.
 
And don't forget to check the fuel pump itself and its pressure. The preferred pressure, which gives  the best, and full, efficiency should be 11 psi. GM specs call for a minimum of 9 psi.
 
Other outside, and extreme, possibilities are: the throttle sensor, the knock sensor (usually breaks when removed to change/drain coolant), the oxygen sensor, and the ECM.   
 
Hope all this helps!

 



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1982 starts but won't run (6/13)
 7/30/10 6:14pm
1982CEC3
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Belmont, NH - USA

Vette(s):
1982 Collector Edition Project Car in need of a lot of TLC!


Joined: 7/29/2010
Posts: 7

Thanks for the info guys! It sounds like the conditions I have mirror those that you described Jack. My car sat in storage for nearly 3 years and I just started working on it within the past two months. I'll start with the pump and work my way forward... 
1982 starts but won't run (7/13)
 7/30/10 7:50pm
2tone82vetteLifetime Member
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Newton, NJ - USA

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1978 Indy Pace Car. All original. A true survivor. 2nd owner Only 300 miles.


Joined: 1/26/2010
Posts: 113

Yes! good to know! I've been, nope not gona jinks it! Thanks John

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1982 starts but won't run (8/13)
 7/30/10 8:05pm
lukesvetteLifetime Member
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HOWELL, NJ - USA

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1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.


Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812

I'd change the fuel filter and give it a whirl. LFTSSF!! (look for the simple sh&% first!)
1982 starts but won't run (9/13)
 8/2/10 7:06am
dwright
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Victor, NY - USA

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2004 Commemorative Edition Coupe, Auto w/HUD. 13K miles in 2015. Sold 1982 Red Coupe


Joined: 7/12/2004
Posts: 6833

You can remove the fuel pump from the tank without removing the tank.
It comes through the fuel door.
Just need to remove the door then the screws for the flange.
You need to rotate the pump as you remove it.
Replace the hose and sock.


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1982 starts but won't run (10/13)
 8/2/10 8:11am
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20128

I'd say put a pressure gauge on it and see what is going on. Loosing fuel pressure could be caused by several things, including a bad oil pressure sender, a faulty ignition module, or the pump/filter. If the engine starts dying before the fuel pressure goes away, then you're looking at another problem, such as ignition related.
Have you "scanned" it for any codes?


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    

My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)
             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

1982 starts but won't run (11/13)
 8/2/10 3:03pm
1982CEC3
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Belmont, NH - USA

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1982 Collector Edition Project Car in need of a lot of TLC!


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Posts: 7

Thanks Jack, you nailed it right on the head. I pulled the fuel pump and there was a 1/2" split in the side of the rubber hose between the pump and rigid fuel line. I replaced the hose (and clamps) and I'm awaiting the tank gasket before I put it back together. That should take care of the problem!!!
1982 starts but won't run (12/13)
 8/2/10 4:54pm
tb2k82ceLifetime Member
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Lemon Grove, CA - USA

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1982 C3 Collectors Edition 44000 miles, sat in the sun most of its life, My wife purchased it for me for Father's Day in 2007 from her girlfriend that had it for 19 years. It is on the road again. I'm retired but it is now my daily driver.


Joined: 10/17/2007
Posts: 2041

While you are in there you may want to replace the fuel pump with an 1985.  It pumps more volume and will keep the pressure steady.  I put on a pressure gauge.  When I went through this I found my pressure was close to 6psi .  The car would stumble when I hit it hard coming from a stop.  I replaced the fuel pump and got it all the way to 9psi then adjusted the fuel pressure to about 12.5psi runs soother but I have a little high 750rpm idle problem.  By the way my local auto parts store had the fuel pump for about $50 with fuel sock.  Do not forget to replace that it is cheap and you do not want to into the tank again for that.
1982 starts but won't run (13/13)
 8/2/10 9:43pm
dskopp
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Oak Creek, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops, Going to remain as Stock as possible. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vetts Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!!


Joined: 5/21/2008
Posts: 1958

[QUOTE=nasajack]

I have an '82 and ran into a similar issue about 6 months ago while the car sat around getting a new interior.

For a while, the car would not stay running, yet what fuel did get to the throttle bodies, was quickly consumed within seconds. We then started the troubleshooting and while we had the chance, the mechanic changed out the idle air controls and replaced the coolant sensor. Although fuel continued reaching the injectors, the fix was a false positive. The car would start, and would immediately consume what fuel made it to the engine, then shut down. The fix??

The fuel pump's plumbing: once we decided to check it, we found that one of the teflon clamps used to secure the rubber hose to the pump had failed. This caused most fuel pumped to cycle right back into the tank, with some reaching the engine, giving enough to start but not be maintained. So, we replaced the factory teflon clamp with stainless and while we were at it, changed the rubber hoses as well, along with the pump seal on top of the tank. Whaolaaaaaaaa...problem not running fixed!
 
And come to find out, the car ran a bit better with the coolant sensor and idle air controls being changed as well...because our initial idea of preventive maintenance concerning those two items simply made sense to do as well at the time.
 
A couple of things u can eliminate if the car was running just fine before your troubles. As with my '82, the mechanic and I eliminated the injectors as a duel fail (extremely rare as far as we were concerned), and the air idle controllers.
 
And don't forget to check the fuel pump itself and its pressure. The preferred pressure, which gives  the best, and full, efficiency should be 11 psi. GM specs call for a minimum of 9 psi.
 
Other outside, and extreme, possibilities are: the throttle sensor, the knock sensor (usually breaks when removed to change/drain coolant), the oxygen sensor, and the ECM.   
 
Hope all this helps!

 What great information Jack!!  I, for one am glad that folks like you and Joel are on this web site.  I'm learning new stuff every day!!  Who said I was too old to learn stuff, was that you Ebo?????

[/QUOTE]

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