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Topic: Advice needed: cascading replacements/upgrades

in Forum: C3 Engines


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Advice needed: cascading replacements/upgrades (1/11)
 11/15/09 4:13am
daveo76
Former Member

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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.


Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 857

It looks like I need to replace my harmonic balancer.  The rubber ring is protruding quite a bit in one spot and it's at least close to rubbing on the timing chain cover. 
 
So it looks like I could take the water pump off (too bad - it's brand new) and then just replace the balancer.  Seems relatively straightforward, correct?  No need to remove the radiator? 
Now, I could go through with this repair and easily stop there.  But did that with the water pump and now look where I am.  Since I am there already, seems like this would be a good time to replace the timing set (75K miles on '76 L-48, 4spd).  But....this involves dropping the pan, no?  And if I drop the pan then I'm probably going to want to replace the oil pump, pickup, and probably the rear main seal???  Anything else?  
 
Now the real question, and I think I know the answer.  If I replace the timing set should I go big and upgrade the cam?  Dumb question alert: Can that even be done in the car?  Is it prudent to put a new cam in an old motor?  Probably involves a radiator removal if so (been there, done that).  Now, iff this sequence is carried out to full fruition then it seems like an engine removal may be advantageous.  Too bad I don't have the room or a hoist.  And even if I did, why would I put a 180 horse L-48 back in??   Yikes Cry...this is starting to get scary.  Think I'd better just go to bed now.  Sleepy
 
Dave 


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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Advice needed: cascading replacements/upgrades (2/11)
 11/15/09 7:43am
JimGLifetime Member
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Gloucester, VA - USA

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1979 T-Top, Metallic Green ZZ4 350/355 hp 405 ft/lbs torque Dual Spal Fans 700R4 4 Spd O/D Transmission 2004 Z06 Commemorative Edition


Joined: 1/29/2005
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Funny how this all works, huh...
BTDT !

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Advice needed: cascading replacements/upgrades (3/11)
 11/15/09 9:06am
RedwingvetteLifetime Member
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Waterford, MI - USA

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1973 Red coupe


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I repalced mine without taking the water pump off. I removed the fan and pulley. There was lots of room to get the puller/installer in there because of the angle the radiator is at. I also replaced the seal.
That being said, it sounds to me like you have the "while-I'm-at-it" thing going. Time to pull the motor and do it all. LOL

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73 coupe L48, Flat-top pistons, Performer RPM Heads, Crane Cam and roller rockers, Holley 650 vac sec. Performer intake,
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Advice needed: cascading replacements/upgrades (4/11)
 11/15/09 11:41am
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

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#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


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The balancer can be changed with the water pump installed. The timing set cannot, tho.
You can sneak the timing cover off the front without dropping the pan, but it's a major pain, and you stand a big chance of a leak if you haven't done it many times, and know the subtle tricks of getting it back on. Dropping the pan on a Corvette is waaaay easier than doing the timing cover twice(or more) because it leaked.
So...I'd say drop the pan, replace the timing gears/chain(with a true roller design), maybe think about replacing the oil pump with a high volume pump, install a new balancer, and be done with it.
I wouldn't toy with the rear main seal at this point unless it is already leaking...


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Joel Adams
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Advice needed: cascading replacements/upgrades (5/11)
 11/15/09 8:31pm
daveo76
Former Member

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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.


Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 857

Thanks for the advice, guys.  I'm glad I found out that I can do the balancer without taking the water pump off.  I may do only that for now, but if I get ambitious over the winter I'll drop the pan and replace the timing gear and oil pump like Joel suggests.  The rear main seal does leak a bit (don't they all Question), but it's not a bad leak so I can probably get away with it for awhile.
 
The fact that no one responded about a cam upgrade leads me to believe that that course of action is probably just not going to be worth it for now.....  But is it possible to do that with the motor in the car?  Are there concerns with using old cam bearings with a new cam?   


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Advice needed: cascading replacements/upgrades (6/11)
 11/15/09 11:03pm
dskopp
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Oak Creek, WI - USA

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1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops, Going to remain as Stock as possible. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vetts Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!!


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I am going to be doing the harmonic balancer thing to my 81 this summer.  Got 124,000 miles on her now.  If it ain't broke, no need to fix it, I say.

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Advice needed: cascading replacements/upgrades (7/11)
 11/16/09 1:52pm
VetteSpecialties
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Mounds View, MN - USA

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70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe


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It is possible to replace the cam in the car, but it is probably as much extra work as just pulling the engine and being able to get at everything and replace all the gaskets and rear main seal.  And if you replace the cam, you either need to go with a low RPM torque cam or replace the heads to increase air flow.  In which case maybe you should replace the pistons to raise the compression, then maybe.......

Larry
Advice needed: cascading replacements/upgrades (8/11)
 11/16/09 6:45pm
Ron 78Lifetime Member
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BINGHAMTON, NY - USA

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That ,you may as well ,as long as you are there,list can get quite extensive and expensive LOLLOLLOLShockedShockedShocked Ron 782009-11-17 17:27:03

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Advice needed: cascading replacements/upgrades (9/11)
 11/17/09 8:58am
manchestersharkLifetime Member
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Equinunk, PA - USA

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1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.


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Smile  Yes Sir REE,  I agree. Start at the radiator and end at the clutch. Do it ONE (1) time and DONE.  It may seem extensive but you will not have to deal with it again.  Just look at all the time you can spend driving and enjoying and NOT be concerned with "Whats going to happen NEXT"

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Advice needed: cascading replacements/upgrades (10/11)
 11/17/09 9:12am
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


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Posts: 20129

[QUOTE=daveo76]The rear main seal does leak a bit (don't they all Question), but it's not a bad leak so I can probably get away with it for awhile.
 
The fact that no one responded about a cam upgrade leads me to believe that that course of action is probably just not going to be worth it for now.....  But is it possible to do that with the motor in the car?  Are there concerns with using old cam bearings with a new cam?   
[/QUOTE]

What you think is a rear main leak may well be the oil pan leaking....which can be corrected while you have the pan off doing the other stuff. The rear main can be changed in the car, but it involves loosening all of the main cap bolts, and letting the crank drop down a bit. That gives a little more clearance to sneak the seal out from the top saddle, as well as the clearance needed to re-install the new seal without buggering it up...which will make it leak...still...

I wouldn't fool with a cam swap on a stock L-48...the results aren't worth the effort. The cam can be swapped with the engine in the car, but you'll have to remove the radiator, and dang-near remove the A/C condenser, and well as the intake manifold. Removing the hood is better, too.


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Joel Adams
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Advice needed: cascading replacements/upgrades (11/11)
 11/22/09 2:36am
daveo76
Former Member

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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.


Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 857

Yep, I've pretty much come to the conclusion that I'm just going to fix what's broke, for now at least.  Definitely the balancer and maybe drop the pan and do the timing set, depending on how ambitious I want to get this winter.  Those Pacific Northwest winters in an uninsulated garage lying on a creeper on a cold concrete floor can be mighty tough.  Takes a lot of energy to get up off the couch after the kids go to bed and go dink around out there.  

Thanks for all the advice.  

Dave


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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