Hello All.

It was time to do the spark plugs in my CFI 82. I admit I was a bit apprehensive about this project. It was just back a few decades that I did my last spark plug change on my six cylinder 72 Chevy Van. I looked on this site and others and found a wide variety of comments about #8 and #2 spark plugs being tough to change. I have the required tools: ¾” open end wrench, ratchet, 5/8” spark plug socket,short, medium and long extensions so, this is how it went.

I jacked the car and put it on stands. It is much easier to work on for me and my back. I knew from reading posts that some plugs would be easier from below. I installed AC Delco R45TS plugs and not changing the wires at this time. I also am using the .o45 gap as displayed on the hood sticker. I sprayed PB Blaster on all of the plugs the night before. I read about the anti-seize compound so had that at the ready as well as a can of Deoxit contact cleaner.

Plug #1 was pretty easy from the top with the ratchet, long extension and the spark plug socket.

Plug #3 was a bit harder. Still from the top, I used the ratchet extension, universal and another short extension to get the socket on the plug. I used the long ¾” open end wrench to loosen the plug and it came out just fine.

Plugs #5 & #7 Accessed from below were easy once the heat shield was removed. It has a single 7/16 bolt that holds it. The bolt does not need to be removed just loosened. The shield comes off very easily. The ratchet and socket worked fine for these two.

Plugs #6 & #8 Only from the bottom. This is where you need to disconnect the battery! The starter battery connection is in the same area. It is hot all the time and is just waiting for a ground through the ignition system. The bolt that holds the heat shield is in close proximity and will arc and spark if you short it to ground. After removing the heat shield it was just the ratchet and spark plug socket – no big deal!

Plug 4 was a bit harder again from the bottom. I used the ratchet socket and short extension with the universal. After it was loose I used just the long extension to work it out by fingers.

Plug #2 This one was about the hardest to change. I popped off the wire from below but, reached it using the extensions and universal from the top. Even with AC compressor and lines it went slowly but, no real troubles.

I'm a novice level at all of this stuff. I have worked on jets and electronics so, I have a bit of experience along those lines of fixing things. I did not find anything in this project that was really hard. It is a lot better if you don't have any pressing time constraints. When the temperature in the garage hits 100*F I quit doing things and go inside.

Don't forget to hook up the battery.

All the best.

Keith

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Nobody ever waves when I'm driving the Explorer.
K Woody

Great job, Keith! You'll have that thing purring like a kitten at idle and roaring like a lion at full throttle! Keep up the good work!

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"Down on the Boardwalk...

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I have also found changing the plugs is easiest from underneath. #2 & 4 can be easier if you remove the pass side tire, and go in thru the wheelwell...with some imagination, and a few tool changes.

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Thanks guys.  Sometimes, even the blind squirrel finds the nut.  I'm very, very happy with how Baby is running.  I went into town today and even the noticed the fuel gauge has slowed down in it's endless dive towards empty.

Having fun in the sun.... well, rain today.

Keith


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Nobody ever waves when I'm driving the Explorer.
K Woody

That is going to make it into my save file after I make a pdf of it.

By the way Ken would you want to demonstrate that when you come over to San Diego to get cool?

I use "brother-in-law" technique when I did mine.

Hi Gilbert,  There may be better ways to do it but, this is what worked out for me.  I think the PB blaster helped a lot.  These plugs are tapered fits so, no gaskets.  I left out the part about cleaning around the hole and keeping the anti sieze compound off the taper.  I also inspeted the wires and shot Deoxit in the connector for good measure. 

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Nobody ever waves when I'm driving the Explorer.
K Woody

Just kidding about the help.  Got it done when I changed plug wires but when they installed new cat and exhaust system so it would pass smog.  But do stop in when you are over if it fits your schedule.

Hey Gilbert!
Yeah, I feel lots better knowing a fresh set of plugs is installed, properly gapped and running good.  Baby passed the emission test last week before the new plugs. I had to do something with the scratch on the driver's side head light cover.  It was really bumming me out.  Passer-bys were pointing it out to me and it was the first thing I saw every time I walked up to the car.....  That is a topic for the Body forum.

We'll plan some time while we are out there to get together for lunch or dinner.  (There is a food theme going on you see) that is seafood and eat it!
Cheers.

Keith 

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Nobody ever waves when I'm driving the Explorer.
K Woody

Thanks for the great detailed procedure for changing the plugs.

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Oops. I meant MPG, not gpm. That would be for your plane.

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Hi Dave,

I don't really know the mileage to change the plugs.  I'll look it up in the owners manual and get back to you.  My reasoning is:  I have been chasing the rich mixture, not holding closed loop, surging and irregular idle, high idle problems with Baby for a couple of years.  Running rich I know from aircraft engines can foul the plugs.  I'm sure my first vette tech replaced them when I bought the car.  He also replaced the master cylinder and sand blasted the rotors as well as replacing one caliper.  That was 7 years and 16,000 miles ago.  I figured I'd find some carbon on the electrodes but, the old plugs looked pretty good.  The gaps were all larger than the spec and R45TSs are cheap.  So rather than just pulling the plugs and regapping them, I decided to just put new ones in.  I would expect 30 to 50 k miles if the plugs do not fail for another reason.  i.e., cracked insulator, burned electrode, stuff like that.  The more experienced guys might chime in on this. When pilots suspect fouled plugs, we lean out the mixture and do an extended runup on the ground or if in the air lean it out till it runs a little rough - enrichen slightly and just let it crank for a while so, we can plan where to put down if things go to $h_t.  But, you knew that.

Having fun in the Sun!
Keith




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Nobody ever waves when I'm driving the Explorer.
K Woody

I do mine from underneath,and when I changed my fuel pump I took off the right wheel and went in just behind the A-frame and the brake line connecter its a strait shot right to the pump mount bolts,piece-o-cake

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C3VR Lifetime Member #93