Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82
With all the sensors being up to spec and running as they should, make sure the front trottle body isn't resting on the idle stop before the rear throttle body does. They should both be resting on the respective stops at the same time. The main reason being important is that the front throttle plate will be closed and the rear will be slightly open. Then the idle control motor can't react fast enough to adjust air, hence the up and down rpm until it stalls. My CF did this and I found the long linkage rod from the front TB causes the bracket connecting it to the rear TB to bend. Try holding the rear TB still at idle and put forward pressure on the front linkage rod and see if it doesn't smooth out! If it does, take a pair of pliers to the bracket holding both linkage rods (looks like a "C" shape) and slightly bend it forward. Over the years of motion, the front rod puts so much pressure on the bracket causing it to bend. TB's won't be out of sink unless modified or removed. In that case, they have to be timed together.
Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Brian - NCM Lifetime Member
73 coupe L48, Flat-top pistons, Performer RPM Heads, Crane Cam and roller rockers, Holley 650 vac sec. Performer intake,
3.55 gear BTO 200-4R trans,
Leather seats, Seatbelt Plus 3point seatbelts, Pioneer CD player
Magnaflow Exhuast System