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How bout the thermostat being installed up side down. The little pointed dome has to face up/out. Is the fan blowing the correct way? Is it in front of the radiator or behind it?

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Click on image for full view

Can you confirm using a heat gun the fan comes on when it should? Did you use a DeWitt setup?

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DeWitts is a radiator mfg and one of the best out there.

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If i picture this right, you have both fans on the engine side?..... so the clutch fan(the fan connected to the water pump) is right behind the electric fan...right???   first, i think i would place the electric in front of the radiator if you are going to use both fans, second, make sure the electric fan is blowing the correct way, in this case,  pulling air through and not blowing toward the front of the car......hook the fan up bypassing the temp switch and get a tissue or something of the like and verify the direction that the fan is blowing....

|UPDATED|6/13/2017 3:51:28 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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StingrayJim
NCM Lifetime Member #1936

Stingray's '76���������������������������� StingrayJr's '78���������������������������Lil Red '94

(click each one to see a bigger version)

You could also by pass the temperature switch and wire it hot to a manual switch. That way you could turn it on and off at your leisure. It also assures you it's on and running.

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Click on image for full view

Is the area between the A/C condenser and radiator clean? 

Are all of the seals around the radiator intact and in place? 

Is the air dam under the front end there? 

Might check the t-stat in boiling water to see if it opens all the way.  Saw a statistic once where about 20% of new ones are bad.

Is the spring in the lower radiator hose that keeps it from collapsing?

Assumptions I made are that the electric fan and engine-driven fan are operational.

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1973 L-82 4 spd

I have the same problem with my 75. I have a new Champion 3 core radiator with dual electric fans and fan shroud. I have removed the factory fan and clutch, changed thermostats from 195 to 180 and now back to 195 with a single 1/8" hole drilled in it. The fans come on at 180 degrees and are blowing the correct direction (pulling air through the radiator and blowing out towards the engine). When replacing the radiator i also replaced the core support, all the radiator seals and the air dam  underneath. My temp gauge reads 230 degrees which I have verified with a heat gun. So far I have tried everything i can come up with on forums except replacing the lower radiator hose, mine does not have a spring in it, but by watching it it does not collapse and both hoses are hard from internal pressure. Any Ideas?   

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check timing and carb for being too lean.

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I did notice today that my glass fuel filter at the carb is never full and fuel flow only seams to be a small squirt every so often. I have already ordered a new fuel pump as mine does look to possibly be original. I will also borrow a timing light to see what the timing is set at. The engine has always run very good. thanks for the help, I will let you know what i find.  

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Fan shroud in place ? Ignition Timing correct ? Collapsed radiator hose ? Slipping water pump belt ?

|UPDATED|6/14/2017 6:12:32 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Toplander.  You might have an air bubble in the system....try running it with the cap on loose and see if there is a difference.... and besides the lower radiator hose, you might have a water pump issue.??  Hopefully it isn't a  head gasket....

|UPDATED|6/15/2017 12:17:30 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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StingrayJim
NCM Lifetime Member #1936

Stingray's '76���������������������������� StingrayJr's '78���������������������������Lil Red '94

(click each one to see a bigger version)

Hi Guys

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My car was definitely running lean because of a weak fuel pump. after replacing the fuel pump the filter remains full and performance is much better, as far as temp goes todays test drive it ran 205 degrees, although the air temp was only 80 compared to 95 when it was running 230 plus. I will still check timing and try with rad cap loose to see what happens. thanks again for all the help.    

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So a continuation of my problems from 1/17 post. I thought I solved the overheating issue with the 160 degree thermostat but only on normal street driving.  At time trials yesterday after 3-1/2 laps it overheated again and I believe I burned up some connecting rod bearings based on the noise coming from the bottom of the motor. 

I've checked and or fixed all the suggestions from the 2017 post so I am at a loss as to what it could be.

The two thoughts I have is not enough air is getting through the radiator because of the transmission cooler in front or the duel fan set up I have has to go and side by side fans installed.  Any Help would be appreciated.

FYI: I was running the car between 3500 and 4500 RPM in second gear on the three speed automatic transmission for maximum torque through the turns. It should take it in my mind without overheating but does someone know differently?

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