Thanks to Adam for keeping in touch with those of us that let our memberships lapse.  I rejoined C3VR after several years of being out of touch.<br><br>When I bought my 1969 L36 coupe, I knew that the carb and alternator were not original to the car.  Thankfully, everything else is.  A 7029207 carb is currently installed, which is for a 1969 350/350.  The correct carb for the L36 is a 7029215.  The 7029207 loads up at idle but is ok otherwise.  Getting a 7029215 would be ideal but I've learned that they're hard to find and expensive when you do locate one.  Any suggestions for a replacement that would give the performance and be similar to the 7029215 without having to make modifications to the intake, air cleaner, etc.?<br><br>Thanks for your help and I'm glad to be back!<br><br>Mike<br>
<edited><editID>LGHT SPD</editID><editDate>2011-08-04 05:45:37</editDate></edited>

My brother, an old school wrench at the local Buick/GMC dealer, took a look at the carb installation and found that the bottom gasket was missing most of the fiber material between the primaries and secondaries, the metal heat shield was packed with carbon on the top in the area where the gasket groove is forward of the primaries, and the top gasket had a pinched area that caused a vacuum leak. We replaced both gaskets and the heat shield and he adjusted the mixture and idle. I now have a completely different car! The acceleration is clean with no loading and the idle is perfect. I've had the Corvette for 6 years and it's never run this well. Total cost: $18.58 and 1 beer (my brother works cheap...didn't even ask for a case!)

Thanks for all of your suggestion and I hope to meet some of you at Carlisle next weekend.

Mike

|UPDATED|8/21/2011 7:16:13 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Why not simply have your carb rebuilt to L36 specs?  You already know the carb fits and everything hooks up.  Unless you're determined to make it numbers correct, it makes no real difference and will run just as well.  A good carb guy can do the job.

I know this goes against the grain but I just got fed up with the Qjet. I ended up with an Edlebrock that was a direct replacement. The car never ran this well.  I had the Qjet rebuilt but one of the best specialists and the carb was bench flowed. It cold idled like crap and had a bad flat spot that never went away...  Pop the hood, it looked stock (before I went crazy) w/the swap..

I'd get in touch with http://www.thequadshop.net/ . The rebuilder there REALLY knows about the Q-Jets.

If you're worried about keeping it original, why not get the carb rebuilt to your specs? I've always heard you can't beat a Quadrajet IF it's set up right!

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Since making the car totally numbers correct is not my goal, I'll check into having the 9207 modified to 9215 specs.  I have no personal knowledge of a reputable carb builder so I'll contact the quadshop on Kevin's recommendation.  Any other recommendations or suggestions are appreciated.

Why don't you just save that stuff and replace the carb with a fuel injection system?  It will run better on the gas you have to buy now with a good conversion system.  I'm seriously thinking about doing this on mine.  The carbs do not like the ethenol in the gas and the Government is going to have the amounts of ethenol increased in all the gas.  I like to drive mine, so that's why I'm thinking about doing this.  She will perform better this way.  She would perform SUPER if I put airplane fuel in her, but that's too expensive! greypoupon692011-08-04 19:44:53

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MICK - C3VR Lifetime Member #113

pull the top of the carb and see what type of float you have, they used two types a brass one and a plastic one, over time the plastic one will swell up and get stuck, that might be the problem.

On my 72 it had a Holly 650 on it and it ran like crap. I started looking at swap meets for a Q-jet with the right #'s and would you beleve I found one. $25.00  Ordered the right jets for a 72 350 and after rebuilding I put it on and it runs like a champ. If you get a Q-jet right they work great.