Prior to more internal work, I plan to readjust the idle mixture again. The idle at the time was too high so there's a good chance it is off. After that, I'm not sure how much work I'll do on the engine. My only objective was to get it running well enough to drive it somewhere to get it pulled and replaced. Then I'll just crate it and let it sit until I'm retired and have the time to rebuild it at my leisure.
I am though curious about your recommendation. I'd like to understand the different approaches I've seen recommended for adjusting valves. The shop manuals use the approach of turning the engine by hand until the timing mark is at 0 deg. That then has either cylinder 1 or 6 at TDC. If it's 1, then adjust #1 intake and adjust, and 6 other valves, one each on cylinders 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, and 8 - a mix of intake and exhaust which I haven't memorized nor will I ever. Then rotate the engine another full revolution to bring 6 to TDC and adjust #6 int and exh and whatever 6 you didn't do on the first round.
The second approach I've seen is to go to #1 TDC and adjust the intake of 1 and the exhaust of some other cylinder. Then rotate 90 deg to the next cylinder is TDC (8 if memory serves) and adjust its intake and then the exhaust on some other. And then just keep repeating.
Your recommendation is kind of a mix of the two in that it adjusts 2 valves each time a piston is at TDC, but eh two are the intake and exhaust of the TDC cylinder.
Any guidance you could provide for the different approaches, or at least for doing each cylinder individually vs. setting 8 valves each time the timing mark is at 0 deg would be appreciated. Also, I'm curious about basing #1 at TDC on the distributor position rather then the timing mark.
Thanks,
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As it once looked and hopefully will again