Hey Ray, that's great news. Make sure you post some pics of the new paint job and stay away from fences !!! While your check book is wide open, are you doing anything else besides the paint ?? I never had much luck with reaching up and around to get a build sheet. I've got a glimpse of a few through the filler hole, but dropping the tank has become automatic if I want any chance of getting one in one piece. Can't believe something we consider so valuable was just a piece of paper stuck to the top of a tank 40+ years ago.

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John Sigmund

I have pics of the engine since I ahven't gotten the engine yet.  It has High Perf cast on the block under the timing cover. Is that on all 454's from 70-72?    The date code I got from the seller of the car and engine is T1I29LE   heads he says are 190018941 which seem to make no sense whatsoever..  K1I23LE??  Until I get the car and engine in 3 weeks I am going crzy worrying about what I've bought..  The intake looks like it could be the 3955287 you mentioned.

Intake Pic

(life-sized image modified to link-aapple)


|UPDATED|3/1/2015 8:09:13 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Date code on the engine is:
T= Tonawanda assy plant
11= November
12= 12th of Nov
9= 1969
LE= ?  A closer inspection of the stamp will reveal the actual engine code. LL, perhaps? This would make it an '69  390hp 427 for an automatic trans car.

Looks like the engine(block) is originally a 1969 engine. Head casting # is strange....got to be a mistake on that one.

I DID find an LE code, for a '69 Chev, 427, 335 hp, auto trans, but it's not a Corvette engine.





|UPDATED|3/2/2015 1:01:24 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

I agree, the intake photo looks like it could be the 3955287, it's hard to make out the first two numbers. Did a little more checking and found my original note that it should be an aluminum intake was wrong, that is definitely cast iron. Can't make out the casting date. Looks like its going to need some clean up and work to remove the broken off bolt at the t-stat housing, be real careful not to break off the other t-stat bolt. Send more pics if you get any.

|UPDATED|3/2/2015 12:14:07 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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John Sigmund

Yeah thank you..  Looks like what I have is a standard 454/427 service block. I have confirmed it being a 2 bolt main and at least the date codes show the correct numbers for a 1970 Corvette. Like I said the owner was supposed to have spun a main bearing while it was under warranty.  I have a pic of the block and pistons in a bin.  I will have to sort out the parts and record "correct" casting and stamping numbers in order to find out just what the collection of what are supposed to be a warranty short block and possibly original bolt on parts. As far as I've learned so far is the intake should be cast iron except for Ls6 engines which would be aluminum. Is the cast iron intake for 1970 390 HP 454's a low profile?  Thing that scares me is that I can't get the casting numbers and date codes from the seller off the heads...

Block Pic

(modified life-sized image to link-aapple)


|UPDATED|3/2/2015 12:58:25 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Are the numbers you're posting for the engine that is in the car NOW, or the blown, supposedly original engine? 

______________

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

I know this is not the place to start a new post but I new figured out how to do it!!  Any talking to a fellow that got a new ECM for his 181 vette??  I am in a conversation with him on facebook and he is confusing me!!  He says he replaced his old ECM with one he got from e-bay but I do not think that he got the correct PROM with it!!  Man!  Now I'm getting almost as smart as Joel!!!!!

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(click to see a larger image)

The engine in it now is the supposed warranty block. Those are the numbers I've been posting.  Anyone heard of any black or Ontario orange 1970's painted either of those colors from the factory? My 1970 sales brochure shows Ontarion orange as an available color for 1970. In the case of my 70 not having docs with it, would I be devaluing (hope I spelled that correctly) it changing the interior and exterior colors?? Original was Donneybrook green with black interior. I really prefer light saddle, it seems a bit cooler and less claustrophobic inside. Anyone ever seen a Laguna gray with light saddle before?

The numbers posted are NOT for a factory warranty engine. Those ALL had a "CE" in the stamp. What you might have is an engine that a dealer installed("crate" engine, sold over the counter) that they in stock at the time. Makes no difference, really....it's still not the original engine for the car. Hopefully, the spare engine you get WILL turn out to be the original....then you can have it repaired, and re-installed back where it belongs.

As far as colors, Ontario Orange was not available in 1970...it was only on the '71-'72 cars. The '70 color was called "Corvette Bronze", and was quite a bit darker, iirc. Changing colors will effect the end value, if you decide(or need) to sell, whether an interior or exterior change...or both. This is really a choice you would need to make yourself. It's your car. If a different color combo suits you better, then go for it. Being a big block, '70, 4 speed car, makes it more desirable than a base engined, automatic car...plus, the '70 production total was a lot lower, due to the '69 model running longer because of the strike.
So...the question is, do you plan on keeping this car for quite some time? Plan on having it judged(NCRS/Bloomington) at any point? Or are you looking to flip it and make a few bucks? If you're gunna keep, and enjoy it, then do what''s makes you happy with it. If trying to go the Judging route, then it'll need to be as close to factory as possible for the best results. If ya wanna flip, and make some cash, then all bets are off....you'd just have to see what is selling in the marketplace.



______________

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

thanks for the insight.  Maybe that LE is actually CE, could possibly just look that way.  I am really hoping it is CE, either way there's no disputing the time frame and 454/427 2 bolt big block. Since the difference would be in the pistons when it comes to horsepower.  No not a 4 bolt but still good for plenty of power (400-450)? And nice stump pulling torque over 450 ft/lbs.  Should be a really fun car with a M21 behind the big block.  Just need some real nice heads, maybe the original ones, so hard to tell unless looking with your own 2 eyes..  Being in the parts profession for 20+ years, I can identify casting and stamping numbers very well.  Color wise, Donneybrook green is definitely NOT a favored color in my eyes. Original or not, being a non documented car and consequently a non numbers matching drive line, I'm going to fair rather poorly on any possible money making ops sticking to the original colors inside and/or out. Just hard to keep the tell tale items on the car in such a condition as to verify originality. I mean, with a thorough ground up restoration all patina proving originality will be removed. Every thing I've been told about big block 4-speed Corvettes of 1970 is truly visible on this car.
    Lots of pictures will help but still possible to clone such a car with amazing detail to parts and numbers. I highly doubt anyone at all would be able to accurately clone a big block 4-speed Corvette with correct part/casting numbers with such items as trailing arms, half shafts, and sway bars.  I do plan on keeping the car for a while and enjoying it, but keeping a constant eye on the value also.
           A difficult feat to accomplish if you're like me and do not want to own just another red Corvette with black interior.

I guess if I really have a 69 427 335 horse "LE" I can't complain about paying under $800 for it.  Checking factory specs on such an engine, it tells me 470 ft/lbs (10 over an L88) horse power though is a little concerning. I think with converting to a 4 bolt main through correct professional machine work and 11:1 pistons with a nice cam, intake, and carb. Either an original pair of stock HP exhaust manifolds or headers, The amount of power should be more than satisfying.  If I am mistaken on any of these upgrades I would appreciate any input from anyone.  Thank you for any help with this matter of concern. With the original engine and trans long gone as in so many cases of any desirable cars, the next logical step would be having a desirable drive train.