I would do both inner n outer while it was apart. Also a new grease seal as well. Rodney

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I believe when you get the bearings it will be bearing and race together, ck your disk pads also. jacking up the wheel and rotating it should help to narrow it down

Get the tire off the ground so you can spin it. Spin it and check for noise, check for play top-to -bottom (this will give the bearing clearance), check side to side play (like you are trying to turn the wheel, this will give you a little bearing play, but also if you have a tie rod problem). while its up in the air, see if you can lift straight up with the tire/wheel with a bar, this way you can check for ball joint problems.

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the recomended way to tighten wheel bearings is use a torque wrench, as you spin the wheel tighten the nut to 12 ft. lbs, back off the nut one lug on the nut, if the hole in spindle doesn't line up for the carter key keep backing off the nut just enough to get the key in, some spindles have two key holes which makes it easier

 Don't hesitate to jump in and do this project as the front wheel bearings should be cleaned and repacked about every 10K miles anyhow. Might as well get to know all that's going on down there and be confident all is well.

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Jimmy B.
Just can't wait to get on the road again.

 
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   Well jacked front off ground and checked movement in wheels, both left and right and did not notice any movement of any amount top tot bottom or in or out side to side. Did another road test, about 15 miles and only heard a slight sound once and it was minor but also was rather windy so made it harded to listen while driving with window down. May take it down and repack bearings anyway, can't hurt and check race while in there and then make decision to replace or not.   Will monitor and report later. Thanks to all for commenting so far.

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Tommy

I agree -  inspecting/repacking is cheap insurance...

probabley $25 a side

When replacing any bearing always replace the race too. The rollers in the bearings wear into the race and when only replacing the bearing there will not be a match between bearing and race and cause premature wear of the bearing.

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DanT

Dan is correct, they should be changed as a set as they wear as a set. Even if you just clean and repack your most likley going to mess up the seals. Take your time setting the new seals in place, clean the lip on the hub real well to remove any lip from rust or 30 plus years of road grime. They do make a seal setting tool that may be worth picking up, I have a set and they worth the price of no cursing seal install....

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LIFETIME MEMBER 151

I've had my share of noises on my old bear..my latest is a clicking noise on the left front..turns out my trim ring I got from Carlisle this year is the culprit..anyhow as far as your bearings go it really is a good idea to at least pack them once a year..its probably the easiest thing to do next to an oil change on these cars and the explode factor is greatly reduced if done..if you find the bearing race or bearing rollers themselves to be scored or discolored at all then find a set of timkens and be done with it..its fun too..I still pack bearings by hand..I use Mobil one synthetic axle grease..I know I'm a minority here but I don't replace the oil seal..I can pop them out from the top side by smacking the inner wheel bearing with a brass punch and the seal pops out with no damage..I would rather keep a quality beat up GM part than replace it with something from China!! Good luck on the noises!! Hope its nothing major.

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My first parade at Carlisle 2010