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Topic: Two questions

in Forum: C3 General Discussion


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Two questions (1/14)
 6/15/18 8:19am
manchestersharkLifetime Member
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Equinunk, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.


Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2382

What is the cure for overseer? What is the best way to pull a engine and auto trans on a 75? Will they both come up through the top, or should they be separated, engine out top, tranny the bottom? Thanks.

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Re: Two questions (2/14)
 6/15/18 10:21am
73shark
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Overland Park, KS - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Orange Metallic Coupe (orig owner), L82, 4 spd (WR), PS, (A/C & PW (I installed from wrecked 73)), leather, AM/FM Stereo, ran with '65 FI unit earlier & will again some day.


Joined: 7/9/2003
Posts: 864

Most cars, if not all, are designed to have inherent understeer because that is a safer way for you to lose control. Oversteer is when the rear end wants to break loose first in a corner. To correct an oversteer condition you would need to increase the diameter of the front sway bar or decrease the diameter of the rear sway bar. To get my neutral steering for autocrossing, I put in an 1.125" front bar and a 9/16" rear bar. Both of these bars are OEM and were available back in the day. Not sure if you could still get OEM bars or not. I removed my engine and transmission as a unit using a 2-ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight. I did have to remove the left front wheel in order to get the proper positioning. You need the 2-ton version in order to get the longest reach possibly. You will need a load leveler in order to do this when removing them as a unit. Be sure to mark the relationship of the U-joint for when you put it back together. It's also helpful if you identify all the wiring and hoses to make reassembly easier.

|UPDATED|6/15/2018 7:21:09 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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1973 L-82 4 spd

Re: Two questions (3/14)
 6/18/18 3:00pm
Vman73
Former Member

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Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.


Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 405

Not much comment on the handling question but +1 on pulling the trans with the engine. It requires you to pull the hood, radiator and core support for enough forward clearance but I think it’s the way to go. If you have any apprehension about removing the core support, then you’ll have to split it in two. The bonus on a AT car is you can remove the trans. cross member if you need to. Good luck.

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John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
Re: Two questions (4/14)
 6/18/18 6:23pm
manchestersharkLifetime Member
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Equinunk, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.


Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2382

It is my understanding that the core support is what holds the front end together. Had that issue with one other car. The cross member is easier, and less hassel. I'll be pulling it from the ceiling, and not a three point lift. Gonna be a oily mess either way. My goal is to leave the torque converter attached to the transmission for less mess. Just looking for other opinions on the project. THANKS

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Re: Two questions (5/14)
 6/18/18 8:15pm
Vman73
Former Member

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Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.


Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 405

You’re right, the core support is the main support for the nose, so if you remove it, make sure no weight is applied to the front end while it’s out. I had mine out for about three weeks during my engine rebuild with no issue. It’s held in with eight bolts, two at the bottom and three down each side. Lots of penetrating oil and some patience goes a long way. The side bolts are fine thread body bolts and somewhat easy to strip on the way back in so I always run a fine thread tap into the welded on nuts beforehand. Removing the core support is also the best way to inspect it to se if you have any rust issues (mostly along the bottom). It’s also the best time to rebuild/replace the radiator is you need to.

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John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
Re: Two questions (6/14)
 6/18/18 9:41pm
manchestersharkLifetime Member
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Equinunk, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.


Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2382

The radiator has been replaced, support is in good shape, suspension and body have been refurbished. Engine is next and last. Just looking for the best way to pull everything in drive train. Will probably split them, with fan and water pump extracted.

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Re: Two questions (7/14)
 6/18/18 9:43pm
manchestersharkLifetime Member
Lifetime Member
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Equinunk, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.


Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2382

Need to reconcile the oversteer. Not sure, but think it is in the slave cylinder, even though it has been balanced and has not reaction when first started, or how it handles on the road, save the over steer in sharp turns.

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Re: Two questions (8/14)
 6/22/18 12:07am
rod7515Lifetime Member
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Red Lion, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1974 White 350 Corvette, TH400 Automatic 1972 Tangerine /Go Mango Convertible 383 Stroker, 2004r Automatic


Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 1182

Mark, 
I did both of mine with engine out the top and trans out the bottom. Not right or wrong it was just the way I did mine. I also bought some add ons for my wheel dollies that allowed me to remove the right front wheel but if you arent going to be using an engine hoist you probably dont need that. If you want I could send you a lot of pics of how I did mine. I can tell go that I removed the engine first then the trans with converter still in last. 
As for the over steer have you checked the alignment? Is it where it needs to be? Have you made any changes lately that caused over steer or did you always have it? When you talk over steer are you talking while normal driving or trying to do some spirited driving or road course? What are tires like and are they they correct size? 
Youve got my number so feel free to give me a call. 
Best of luck! 
By the way, if you need any extra parts let me know Im going to be getting rid of all my vette parts.
Rodney 


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Re: Two questions (9/14)
 6/22/18 7:54am
manchestersharkLifetime Member
Lifetime Member
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Equinunk, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.


Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2382

I expect to split the trans and engine. Converter will stay in trans to eliminate the mess. Need to get the car on a lift to check for slop in linkage. Will need another set of hands to do it. Tires are BFGs. Suspension is all new. Very few miles on it. Alignment is good to my knowledge. SBC, so no rear away bar. Goes good straight, but turns seem to make it more aggressive. Wants to do its own thing. Needs correction in a turn.

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Re: Two questions (10/14)
 6/22/18 7:57am
manchestersharkLifetime Member
Lifetime Member
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Equinunk, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.


Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2382

Keep me in mind for parts. I'll take what you have.

|UPDATED|6/22/2018 4:57:39 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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Re: Two questions (11/14)
 6/22/18 9:45am
rod7515Lifetime Member
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Red Lion, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1974 White 350 Corvette, TH400 Automatic 1972 Tangerine /Go Mango Convertible 383 Stroker, 2004r Automatic


Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 1182

Mark When you say suspension is all new what was replaced? Was it ever ok since you owned it t for handling. Neither of my vetted had sway bars on rear and I never had any handling issues. Both had front seat bars. Rodney

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Re: Two questions (12/14)
 6/22/18 11:03am
73shark
Limited Member
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Overland Park, KS - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Orange Metallic Coupe (orig owner), L82, 4 spd (WR), PS, (A/C & PW (I installed from wrecked 73)), leather, AM/FM Stereo, ran with '65 FI unit earlier & will again some day.


Joined: 7/9/2003
Posts: 864

Does the rear alignment have the proper amount of negative camber and correct toe-in settings?

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1973 L-82 4 spd

Re: Two questions (13/14)
 6/22/18 12:42pm
manchestersharkLifetime Member
Lifetime Member
Send Private Message

Equinunk, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.


Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2382

ALL suspension components have been replaced. Bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, steering box, slave cylinder, bearings, trailing arms, springs, rear pucks and nose cushion, if I it was old, I replaced it.

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Re: Two questions (14/14)
 6/23/18 12:03am
rod7515Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
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Red Lion, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1974 White 350 Corvette, TH400 Automatic 1972 Tangerine /Go Mango Convertible 383 Stroker, 2004r Automatic


Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 1182

Mark, I understand all parts have been replaced but has it been re aligned since all that work was done?
If not I would start there.
Rodney 


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