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Topic: 71 front brake leaking, recommendations...

in Forum: C3 Handling Components

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71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (1/15)
9/8/09 3:29pm

2nd2ja
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Lino Lakes, MN - USA

Vette(s):
71 Coupe LS5 454 Auto

Joined: 1/8/2009
Posts: 138

When as I was under the car lately, I noticed the passenger front wheel was covered in fluid. The fluid leaked out and onto the bottom of the tire. And the car was only sitting for a few days.

I was getting a pulling motion when braking to the driver's side. Obviously because the other side wasn't braking enough so it overcompensated.

I know the history of my car and the brakes were redone at least twice. i don't think they were re-done in SS. However, I know there's a lot to be said about sleeving the calipers with Stainless Steel.

Anyone done this with SS? Can I perfrom this? Or do i just buy the calipers already done? I've done brakes on many cars, but not on a c3 vette.

Any suggestions please let me know. 'Preciate it.

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71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (2/15)
9/8/09 4:39pm

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HOWELL, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.

Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812

Stainless is definitely a good option. I've never sleeved calipers myself, but, a second set of hands is helpful. Heavier, bulkier calipers with 4 pistons to manipulate....

Get yourself a set of the clips that hold the pistons in place - they'll save you a few 4 letter words. Check the rubber brake lines as well. If you're pulling the calipers, now is a good time to change them.

Good luck

Paul

71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (3/15)
9/8/09 5:23pm

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Dorr, MI - USA

Vette(s):
71 Colonnade Hardtop Coupe Torch Red with black interior originally L48 built to push around 360hp

Joined: 8/21/2002
Posts: 2581

Check the rubber hose going to the caliper. Mine started leaking and that was all it was. I would spray it down good with brake cleaner and see where its comming from first.

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71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (4/15)
9/8/09 6:20pm

Gunslinger
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Frederick, MD - USA

Vette(s):
1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior

Joined: 9/8/2003
Posts: 3398

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I agree with what they said. Unless you know for a fact the rubber hoses have been recently replaced, you have to assume they're the original brake hoses. I think you should replace all of them...front and rear just for safety's sake.

Also...if you find the caliper has to be rebuilt or replaced, you should replace or rebuild them in pairs. That keeps braking pressure the same on each axle so it won't pull.

Check your brake pads...if they've been covered in brake fluid, they need replacing as well. If you replace the calipers, they generally come with new pads.

71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (5/15)
9/8/09 11:16pm

2nd2ja
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Lino Lakes, MN - USA

Vette(s):
71 Coupe LS5 454 Auto

Joined: 1/8/2009
Posts: 138

yeah, i know the deal with calipers and brakes. I just did an 88 Iroc Z- new calipers on both but one side always pulled too much. Found out one hose was new, the other wasn't and it looked fine, but stuck.

So with the Vette, I'm going to do both fronts for saftey's sake. maybe i'll get lucky and find it's just the hose, but then i might as well have a look at the caliper too.

And with fluid all over, the brake pads are probably soaked- so there's a replacement job in the works.

We'll find out.

If I do decide and get the SS sleeved calipers, should I keep my orginals or not bother. Do you just buy them complete?

They might have been replaced for all I know (i have receipts for 2 brake jobs, but i think it was the rears last time).

I have 125K on the car and it just happened to suddenly sprung the leak, so I'm thinking hose.

71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (6/15)
9/9/09 2:18pm

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Manteca, CA - USA

Vette(s):
1978,two tone,Metalic Rootbeer & gold 1975 L48 4 speed

Joined: 11/20/2005
Posts: 3623

[QUOTE=2nd2ja] If I do decide and get the SS sleeved calipers, should I keep my orginals or not bother. Do you just buy them complete? They might have been replaced for all I know (i have receipts for 2 brake jobs, but i think it was the rears last time). I have 125K on the car and it just happened to suddenly sprung the leak, so I'm thinking hose. [/QUOTE]

If your buying rebuilt calipers there is usually a hefty core charge attached to the price. As far as the sleeves, as old as these cars are you may find that some one else has already changed out the calipers for rebuilts and they already are sleeved, but you can't tell til you've removed the pistons and wiped away the gunk. Resleeving is not a job a guy can do on his own. Even machine shops won't get involved in that procedure. You usually have to ship them out some where to a specialist who offers that service. I've seen calipers suddenly start leaking before. As crud builds up behind the piston the abrasives must compromise the seal.

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71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (7/15)
9/9/09 2:50pm

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Wichita, KS - USA

Vette(s):
2005 Daytona Sunset Orange Metallic Coupe --------------------- Sold 1974 T-top, 4 spd to BillKS

Joined: 11/10/2003
Posts: 6859

If you haven't already, I suggest that you get a set of braided brake lines as they won't bulge and leak as easy as the pure rubber hoses. I put them on mine and don't worry as much about line leaks now.

Larry

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71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (8/15)
9/9/09 11:06pm

2nd2ja
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Lino Lakes, MN - USA

Vette(s):
71 Coupe LS5 454 Auto

Joined: 1/8/2009
Posts: 138

I looked over the leak. It wasn't wet at all above on the hose or top of the caliper or even the bleeder valve.

It was wet at the very bottom by the two large bolts, so i think it's the caliper leaking.

But I might as well replace all the hoses too.

Got an estimate for SS sleeved calipers at $99 each (core $60) so that's probably what I'll do.

I did notice that the calipers had a blue retaining clip ors omething that didn't look quite stock in it.

I knew the brakes were bled at least every other year but it wasn't driven much and they go bad just sitting still.

71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (9/15)
9/9/09 11:14pm

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Morganville, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1971 350 270 hp roadster millivanilli red, black interior, white rag top, white hard top, I've had it 18 years and intend on giving it to my son for his 25th birthday(another 18 years from now)

Joined: 1/25/2009
Posts: 92

get the o ring ones they last alot longer if you let the car sit just my .02 .......Bill

71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (10/15)
9/10/09 10:02pm

2nd2ja
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Lino Lakes, MN - USA

Vette(s):
71 Coupe LS5 454 Auto

Joined: 1/8/2009
Posts: 138

I pulled out the front caliper. Looked actually newer and pads were good, but wet. I'm not sure where the leak came from exactly, but I went ahead and bought 2 new SS calipers from corvette Specialties along with new pads.

Unfortunately, I wan't able to unscrew the hose from the hard line. It was already shot and rounded over. Darn it! I bought a replacement front line, but I can't even begin telling you how impossible it is to put it up through there!

I'm trying to unbolt my compressor to see if that gives me more room. Otherwise, I unbolted then tore out (literally) the orginal line from below. For now, I clipped off the line before it went up and into the junction box.

I can't even attempt to put a small wrench around the bottom junction line to even loosen it let alone take it off. It points down against the frame. Maybe if the other wheel is off i can reach it, otherwise...

I'm wondering, could I keep the line in there and splice it. I have a double flaring/tube kit.

All this work- I'm doing the brake job but I initially wanted to farm out the line (and then they needed bledding again). They wanted $90-100/hour. No way. I don't even think professionals could do this better than I am.

Any ideas on installing the front hard line?

71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (11/15)
9/11/09 2:10pm

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Matteson, IL - USA

Vette(s):
1975 L-48 coupe

Joined: 8/24/2009
Posts: 10

I just replaced all of the rubber brake hoses (Larry is right, I used braided hoses) after rebuilding all 4 previously sleeved calipers (2 developed leaks after the car sat for a while, so i just did them all). Did you try to remove the rubber hose from bottom-side of the retaining clips where the rubber hose transitions to metal line while working inside of the wheel well? I was able to use a couple of flare wrenches, but if the end of the rubber hose is rounded-off, use a pair of vise-grips to get a good lock on it and use a flare wrench on the metal line so that it doesn't bend while you remove the rubber hose.

Rod

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71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (12/15)
9/11/09 9:56pm

fedexbicman76
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HARROD, OH - USA

Vette(s):
1976 - L-48 Auto, A/C, AM/FM, Power Windows, Tilt Telescopic Wheel, Factory Aluminum Wheels, Inferno Red Matalic Custom paint with Black Leather Interior.

Joined: 7/25/2003
Posts: 335

First off, SPRAY THE CRAP out of the threaded connection points with break free or something simular. Do it again and again. Then wait a while. Then get the smallest pair of vise grips you have and a flare wrench to put on the head of the steel line. Work at getting the vise grips to lock on what is left of the rubber line head and hold both tight. Then try to work the vise grips a little. I worked them in both directions a little at a time and then finally was able to get them to break free. It's a pain to get in there but, be patient an persistent and you can do the job. And you're right. You can do the job at less money than the shop at $90/$100 hours.....

71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (13/15)
9/13/09 8:02pm

2nd2ja
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Lino Lakes, MN - USA

Vette(s):
71 Coupe LS5 454 Auto

Joined: 1/8/2009
Posts: 138

You're all right!

The hard line going into the brake hose was rounded off- bad news. The hose wasn't stripped and was okay, but I still don't trust 'em (after my IROC's hoses looked good but weren't).

I did use a vise grips over the rounded line, then twisted it around until they both seperated. But the hard line couldn't be saved- not even enough room to cut off the line and re-flare it! I pulled down the line from below- literally torn it out.

I ended up buying SS brained hoses off ebay- all four (but I'll just put the fronts on for now.)But I can't even begin to install them (let alone the calipers, pads) until i have the hard line installed.

I'm a wrencher and lots of cars over the years. But this Vette is very challenging. The plugs ttok probably 5 hours (still have to replace wires). Now the brakes are the next challenge...

The brake line install is a nightmare. I can't get the compressor out of the way to even get the line up and through from below, then under the A-arm and out to the brakes.

Also, I have no way of going up and into the brake junction box, so i cut it off just before.

Please, anyone out there who has installed a right/passenger front hard line in a complete car (not just the frame obviously) send me your suggestions!

71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (14/15)
9/19/09 7:39pm

2nd2ja
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Lino Lakes, MN - USA

Vette(s):
71 Coupe LS5 454 Auto

Joined: 1/8/2009
Posts: 138

I have the hard line in... almost. The hardest brake job i've done on a car- no thanks to the line being bad.

Miked the rotors- they felt and looked smooth but were out of specs- 6 thou on the one and 3 on the other. I could've machined 'em but i just bought new ones. $89 each.

Had to buy rivits for the rotors, too. Is this necessary now? Gonna take 'em apart soon.

Boy, the vette stuff is expensive. I have over 600 in front brakes (new rotors, pads, SS calipers, hard line, small drivers line, and I still have to get the bearing. though I did buy SS braided Russel lines- which were only another $20 over the stockers.

All said and done, I have $650 probably in a brake job- and I'm doing it.

That's almost as expensive as my Chevelle's whole front db converstion kit. That's juts not fair!

71 front brake leaking, recommendations... (15/15)
9/24/09 1:01pm

2nd2ja
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Lino Lakes, MN - USA

Vette(s):
71 Coupe LS5 454 Auto

Joined: 1/8/2009
Posts: 138

Okay, here's the lowdown on the ongoing saga of the 71 C3 brake job:

Finally got the new hard line in- just have to hook 'em up on the ends. It's near impossible to get to the driver's side- you have to go through the wheel well. Be prepared to turn the brake line wrench maybe an 1/8" turn at a time. It takes forever.

I used penetrating oil for days on the lines- and they still would hardly budge. Finally broke one loose and took it out.

There's a bolt and brake line clip that you can feel but not get a wrench on. The alternator and brackets are in the way and it's under the A arm. I ended up using a long breaker bar and punching through the old line right at the edge of the clip. then I tore it out in sections from the front and through another back pocket. Maybe on sbc car there's more room. BBC- there's no way to get in there with the engine and accessories/shroud installed.

Calipers have been mounted and readied with new braided steel lines.

Once i reconnect the line to the junction box, I'll be on a roll.

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