Hey I'm sorting out the e-brake and have an issue with the drivers side. First, its all new parts as installed by the PO. The passenger side I just dissembled and reasemlbed when repairing the T-arm spindle bearings. It all worked fine and still does. The P-side is having an issue with the lever that pushes the top of the shoes apart. Its the lever that attaches to the e-brake cable. On the rear shoe, the lever is popping out of the notch in the shoe (jumps behind the shoe). The shoes retainer spring is attached proper, it seems like the shoes are riding on the nubs on the backing plate so I'm just not sure how the shoe is popping outward thus causing the lever to shoot behind it. What keeps the shoes from pushing outward away from the backing plate. Are they held in check by the inside of the rotor? I'm wondering if the backing plate is bent since the shoes are held against it.
I had it all looking proper, pulled the e-brake cable (assembled, wheels on) and "pop" I felt it pop out of its notch.

Also, if someone can point me towards the proper e-brake adjustment process for the shoe expander that would be a good place to start.
Thanks,
Dave 

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My Christmas present to ME! Bought Sat 11-30-2013. 72, 350 4 spd, Silver with blue interior...Can't you just hear Pablo Cruz playing in the background?

hi,doing the same job myself.

are you sure the pin and spring are in correctly?

they are meant to stop shoes kicking forward.

to adjust,tighten up till you cant turn wheel by hand then back adjuster off 8-10 notches.

|UPDATED|7/13/2014 11:55:54 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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1979 Corvette

The round springs/cups keep the shoe held against the backing plate, but the rotor also keeps them from going too far. From the sound of it, the p-brake is not adjusted tight enough, and the lever is popping over the edge of the shoe. Spin the adjuster until the rotor locks down, then back it off until you can just turn the rotor. Same as adjusting "normal" rear drum brakes. This adjustment is best done with the halfshaft(s) disconnected, so there's no drag/binding from them. Or...jack the t-arm on that side up and get the weight off of the halfshaft.
Once you have both p-brakes adjusted properly, then adjust the center cable from the p-brake handle. It should lock the rear brakes within 8-10 clicks. Sooner is better, tho. If you have to adjust the center cable all the way up to the end of the threads, there is a problem somewhere.
The linkage to engage the e-brakes on these cars is cheesy as heck to begin with....but it was cheap to make. When adjusted properly, the p-brake will hold solidly in reverse...forward, not so much.
Don't plan on being able to lock the rear brakes up with the p-brake at speed....it ain't gunna happen. The p-brake is only good for parking....might help a little if your regular brakes fade, or fail, but not much.

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Joel Adams
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Alright good, hopefully is just mal-adjusted, like myself. I will have the internal drums turned. There is no way I can run the shoe clearance that tight and still remove the drum. There is a pretty sizable dif in the drum lip ID and working drum surface ID. Right now they hang up going on but once seated the drum spins easily. Maybe I won't have to pull them little buggars (shoes) off again. At least everything is new in there.

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My Christmas present to ME! Bought Sat 11-30-2013. 72, 350 4 spd, Silver with blue interior...Can't you just hear Pablo Cruz playing in the background?