Yesterday I got to drive my '69 Coupe home in a heavy rain.  Among other things, my brakes faded to almost nothing.  All the way to the floor, but still stopped the car.

What do you guys think, go with stock or upgrade?  I've read many articles last night on cross-drilled and slotted rotors and how they may or may not do anything for me.

I don't race although I may speed on the freeways.  Like everybody else in LA, I'll go 50 in a 40 and 80 on the freeway.  At a stop sign, I do make a complete stop (that being my last ticket,) so I need smooth brakes.

My car is not an NCRS show car though I may enter it in a VCCA show.

I would really value your opinions about brakes.  I need to troubleshoot them first, but then what, repair or upgrade.

Thanks,
Jim


|UPDATED|12/20/2013 4:30:39 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

The brakes on your car are perfectly adequate for the job.  But...if you want to upgrade feel free to do so.  You should first find out why your brakes faded.  

Thanks Gunslinger.  And no, I'm not looking to throw money at it, there's enough stuff to spend on without looking for it.

What about Sears or Midas?

I absolutely, positively would not take a classic Vette to a Sears, Midas, Pep Boys, etc.   I suggest you do a little searching in your area and take your car to a shop that knows these cars.  If you find that you need to repair or replace a caliper or two, I suggest you buy units that have stainless steel sleeves installed.   

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1973 BB 4-Speed Coupe Project Car

I'm in the process of doing a brake job on my 80... calipers, pads, stainless steel brake lines, new rubber hoses.

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https://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/28601_28700/28676/Photo01111418_sml201552819853r.jpg 1980 Daytona Wide Body - work in progress

Take it to a Corvette shop and tell them to rebuild the brakes.  Done.

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 By "ALL" means, go with NEW units. The re-mans are JUNQUE!  I have had my fill of re-mans from A1 Cardone. As you said, several trys till I said, give me a NEW one and I'll pay the price. They gave me a NEW one at re-man price. I'm going back to them for my parts needs.

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Click on image for full view

Oops!  I need to update this posting.  Stepson and I replaced the calipers, pads, hoses and master cylinder last month.  SSBC brand with 0-ring calipers.  She stops good now and the pedal stays off the floor.  Worst part of this job was bleeding them afterwards.  Got a vacuum caliper bleeder from HF but went back to regular bleeding in short order.

Jim

PS  The labor and markup at my local vette shop made me uneasy.  Plus the 'unknown' items they may find.


|UPDATED|7/9/2014 11:54:51 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Another few hours spent under the Vette working on replacing brake lines. Only have the line that runs from front to back to complete this job. I don't know what other experiences have been with replacing the brake lines but I'd sure like to know what special tools they use to get to some of these retaining bolts. I'm wrestling with the one bolted to the frame just underneath where the driver sits. The bolt is on the topside of the frame. It looks like there is a access panel that can be removed from the inside, but you have to remove the driver seat to get to the panel. (REALLY!) So in the process of removing the seat I found out the mechanism that moves the seat forward is broke so I can't get to the rear bolts that hold the seat down. Any suggestions before I take the sawzall to it. (no worries... the seats are shot, so they're being replaced anyway.)

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https://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/28601_28700/28676/Photo01111418_sml201552819853r.jpg 1980 Daytona Wide Body - work in progress