I had a broken wheel stud on my right rear wheel. I pulled the tire, then the brakes, then the disk/drum in order to have access to behind the hub so I could knock the old stud out. Then I had to remove the parking brake pads. HUGE MISTAKE! I should have left the broken stud alone and took my chances with a wheel flying off. I can't believe the factory installed these brake pads before they pressed on the hub. I worked about three hours trying to get the pads back on with no luck. Does anyone have any tricks that work well on this job? I have seen the one where you can use dental floss and silicone. I have to give myself a few days to de-frustrate before trying again. Thanks. -Mark

______________
Mark Johnson

I feel your pain! I had a broken stud too. I let it go for a year then the wheel bearing exploded so I rebuilt the bearings. I know people have done the shoes with the hubs in but I went the other route. Removing the hub isn't much more work from where you are now. You would need two tools. One to remove the hub and one to install. The install tool is pretty cheap. There are a few different styles of removal tools. One being a press style that costs a good bit but can be used many times. The other is just a nut that screws on to the end of the hub that protects the threads from the hammer blows. I got the press tool since I use it more often than most. You can get the tools from mid America. If time and patience is something you have an abundance of then try the string trick...I see it as time is money so removing the hub is the way to go. To get the hub off you'll have to remove the four bolts on the output driveshaft to the hub then remove the axle nut on the hub..install the tool and hammer away. A short heavy hammer works best if you're on jack stands. Torque the nut to 100 ft lbs when done. Removing the nut is easier if you have the rotor and caliper on so you can stick a screw driver in the rotor and caliper to keep it from spinning. Grease the heck out of the bearings and press it back together. I know it sounds like a tough job but it's really not bad. You'll have a tougher time getting the pads back in the caliper than anything else. One thing I would recommend to get while ordering the other tools is caliper piston holders. They will make getting the pads in much easier. I think the tool bill would be around 75-100$. Time saved and patience saved is well worth it.

______________

My first parade at Carlisle 2010

Do the rear one first, I found it to be easier and less frustrating , saving the anger for the front. Dental floss is a must. Compress spring using vise grips, tie In two- three places, then insert retainer cup into spring, it should stay in place now put shoe in place , put spring and cup onto pin now I took a small diameter plastic tube , inserted through the hub ,on to thrip ring/cup and rotated the cup/ spring a quarter turn and presto it ,s on. NOw the front is a bit trickier because the pin has a tendency too slip backward . Here I used a wooden shim to hood the pin outward then the floss tied spring, and small diameter tube . After that I did the upper then lower tension springs , then the adjuster . Good luck, I finally did mine three times , the last took only 30 minutes using the above finess and probably a lot of lunch. Good Luck Big Al If you go the removal route, there is an air tool that you attach to an air impact hammer that will save you beating the nut with a hammer , course you need an air compressor for this

|UPDATED|11/7/2013 6:40:07 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


______________

Rich is right, time is money...found out the hard way....used dental floss trick and it took me a week of a few hours a day to get done. Had to quit after a few hours due to the frustration   and throwing things 

______________

DanT

Thanks, guys, glad to hear that I'm not alone! I'll post which route I decide to go and how long it takes. (That is if I can bring myself to talk about it). I really appreciate the help.

______________
Mark Johnson