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Topic: Thinking of Redoing My Brakes

in Forum: C3 Handling Components


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Thinking of Redoing My Brakes (1/9)
 6/19/09 8:19pm
jp75vette
Former Member

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Bloomfield Hills, MI - USA

Vette(s):
1975 Corvette coupe, 4 speed manual, 383 ci 9.5:1,Edelbrock dual plane Air Gap intake, Alum Heads,Comp Cam, roller Rockers, PS,PB,Tilt


Joined: 6/29/2008
Posts: 199

My major job this summer may be to redo the brakes. I started to do some research and there are lots of options and I have a few questions?

  1. Should I rebuild my calipers?
    1. or should I get new ones?
      1. lip, or no lip
      2. stainless steel sleves?
      3. stainless steel pistons?
  2. Rotors?
    1. Factory; (I am not trying to keep car 100% original)
    2. Slotted?
    3. Slotted and drilled?
    4. Tire Rack seems to have good prices.
  3. Do I do parking brake at the same time?
  4. What kind of brake fluid to use?

I know there are many questions, but am looking to do this myself and am wondering where there are some good deals.

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Thinking of Redoing My Brakes (2/9)
 6/19/09 9:32pm
lukesvetteLifetime Member
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HOWELL, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.


Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812

You can get great quality rebuilds with SS sleeves and O-Ringed pistons for a lot less than new ones and they'll perform just as well. Try Larry at Corvette Specialties.

As for rotors, I put 4 Delco replacement rotors on mine and she'll stop in a dime. I don't have any experience with slotted and drilled rotors for C3s, but beware of the cheapies coming out of China. Word is that they're too weak with all the material removed on top of poor quality metal and will warp fairly quickly. Unless you're planning on any road course driving, stock replacements should be fine.
 
As for the parking brakes, ya might as well. You'll be there anyway once the rear rotors are pulled.  I'd go with stainless hardware.
 
I used a quality DOT 3 brake fluid in my car and worked out great. Be sure to replace all 4 of your rubber lines and make sure the rear hard lines are in good shape.
 
Good luck and take your time!! Thumbs Up
 
Paul
Thinking of Redoing My Brakes (3/9)
 6/20/09 12:47am
NorskyLifetime Member
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Burke, VT - USA

Vette(s):
SOLD - "The Toy" - '70 Convertible
SOLD - "The Beast" - '90 ZR-1 (#682)
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Still have - "BLKBRRD" - '78 Pontiac Trans Am


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Posts: 7190

What Paul said.  And I did get the caliper set from Corvette Specialties.  The car is still up on jack stands while I complete a few other tasks but the brakes were number one priority this year.

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Jim Olson 

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Thinking of Redoing My Brakes (4/9)
 6/25/09 11:44am
mysticstriper
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Saraland, AL - USA

Vette(s):
1980 L82


Joined: 6/22/2009
Posts: 13

My brakes SUCK! I hear stainless steel brakes are what I need...u, why?
Thinking of Redoing My Brakes (5/9)
 6/25/09 9:46pm
Adams' AppleLifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas


Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20128

I agree with both Paul and Jim. I would strongly caution against using stainless steel pistons in the calipers. Stainless pistons will transfer waaaay too much heat from the brake pads to the fluid, causing the fluid to boil, which leads to mushy(or no) brakes. The original style, aluminuminum pistons do a good job of insulating, or reducing the amount of heat transferred to the fluid thru them.

In response to mysticstripper's question....
Stainless steel sleeves in the calipers will pretty much eliminate any corrosion issues with the calipers. Corrosion has been the bane of Corvette disc brakes since 1965, until 1984. Moisture attacks the cast iron of the calipers from the inside, and causes the seals on the pistons to not seal, which leads to fluid loss, and major brake headaches. If the caliper bores are not scored/corroded, they can be honed and re-used with no problem, but....finding calipers that have no corrosion is getting to be more like a fairy tail....just wishful thinking.

The same applies to using stainless steel parking brake hardware. The stuff just doesn't rust/corrode, making it the material of choice for something you'll prolly only want to do once in your lifetime!



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Thinking of Redoing My Brakes (6/9)
 6/25/09 11:48pm
dskopp
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Oak Creek, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops, Going to remain as Stock as possible. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vetts Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!!


Joined: 5/21/2008
Posts: 1958

I agree.  When I got my 81 in November of 2007, the brakes were shot.  I invested the 1300 to do the stainless steel sleeve route.  New lines, calipers, shoes ( not shoes I ment pads) and Disk's.  Stops on a dime!! dskopp2009-06-25 20:50:10

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Thinking of Redoing My Brakes (7/9)
 6/26/09 11:49am
VETTERBOBLifetime Member
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DUNEDIN, FL - USA

Vette(s):
1969 COUPE CORTEZ SILVER, BRIGHT BLUE INTERIOR 383 cu. in. 512 HP. Hooker headers w/ side pipes PS PS AC AM FM STEREO. 68,000.MILES C5 5oth Anniversary Coupe , auto.350hp


Joined: 10/22/2004
Posts: 832

 JUST TACLKLED THIS JOB MYSELF. WILL BE PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER THIS WEEK END. DEFINATELY GET YOUR CALIPERS SLEEVED. I PURCHASED SLOTTED AND DRILLED ROTORS( HOWEVER , I WANTED PERFORMANCE PARTS AS I BUILT THE CAR TO GO.) O RING TYPE PISTONS WITH A TEFLON COATING.AND NEW STAINLESS BRAKE LINES.I ALSO DECIDED SINCE EVERYTHING WAS OPENED THAT I WOULD DO THE BEARINGS TOOI HIGHLY RECOMMENED CHECKING THEM AND AT LEAST RE-PACKING THEM WITH FRESH GREASE. GOOD LUCK!
Thinking of Redoing My Brakes (8/9)
 6/26/09 1:38pm
aceintheholeLifetime Member
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Manteca, CA - USA

Vette(s):
1978,two tone,Metalic Rootbeer & gold 1975 L48 4 speed


Joined: 11/20/2005
Posts: 3623

Well Jack, If you have more time than money, you can save big buck$ by rebuilding your own calipers. It's difficult to make all decisions to purchase everything before you begin because your calipers have to be sleeved (stainless steel) to use the o-ring pistons (preferred). Separate the caliper halves and wipe away the crud to be sure (sleeves are obvious). These cars are old enough that chances are the calipers have been rebuilt before. But there is nothing wrong with the lip seal type either. They still stop the car great. I don't know enough about the new style rotors to comment, but everyone raves about them. If your emergency brake doesn't work well, now is definitely the time to replace. There is a post in our archives with some good info on the subject. I've never used anything but DOT 3 fluid because that's what I keep around and I don't want to mix by accident. Careful with those fixed brake lines, it's easy to round off a nut or twist a metal line if it hasn't been touched in 30 yrs. Good luck on the project. Time and money well spent Thumbs Up. Caliper paint is about $40 Wink, well worth it.

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Jimmy B.
Just can't wait to get on the road again.

 
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Thinking of Redoing My Brakes (9/9)
 6/29/09 1:18am
F4GaryGold Member
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Grapevine, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air.


Joined: 8/26/2006
Posts: 1409

These calipers were designed for lip seal pistons.  Here is a great article on whether you should get lip seal or o-ring seal.
http://www.duntovmotors.com/CaliperSchool.htm

Enjoy.


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