First suggestion is to pull the fuel pump and replace it with a new pump either 82 or 85. The short rubber fuel hose to the pump that is inside the tank is notorious fo deteriorating. The pump comes out the top after removing the fuel door and associated hardware around the door. It will come out, it just takes the appropriate amount of twisting and turning accompanied by a little blue language to get it out. When the pump finally starts out, make a note of which way everything was pointing so you wont have to go through the experimenting process again. You can replace it with an 82 pump that will put out about 11 pounds of pressure or with an 85 pump which will put out much more. If you do put in an 85 pump you will have to modify your drivers side throttle body so that you can adjust the pressure regulator to notice any difference. If you arent comfortable with modifying the throttle bodies then install the 82 pump as the 85 pump will make absolutely no difference. If you do install the 85 pump you dont want to go much over 14 psi on the pressure or you will blow the diaphram in the throttle body. If you are only getting 5 psi at the throttle bodies then YES that will cause idle problems as well as acceleration problems. The factory settings are for 9-11 pounds at the throttle body but my car runs better with the 85 pump and a setting of 14 psi. If you decide to install the 85 pump I can give you directions on how to modify the throttle body so you can adjust the factory sealed fuel pressure regulator which includes removnig the anti-tamper plate in the regulator. You will also need a tool, either bought from Dynamic Crossfire Solutions or home built so that you can get to the regulator screw one the plate is removed, it cannot be done with standard tools. I build my own from a flexible carburator adjustment tool from pep boys and a piece of copper tubing....just call me bubba. You may also want to balance the throttle bodies to make sure they are in sync. This involves drilling out an access hole in the TBs and knocking out more anti tamper plugs and breaking a factory weld on the TB linkage. A water manometer is needed to do the balance but one can be bubba built for less than $10 which works well. I am on the road at present and dont have the links to the balancing procedures but can provide them the first of the week if you are interested. What fuel pressure gauge did you install? DCS?
Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82
I think you are on the right track, install the pump and if that does the trick, leave well enough alone. If by rebuilding you mean bushings, that wont be required. You will absolutely have to replace some gaskets if you take the tower apart and if the regulator is apart it would be a shame to put the same 29 year old diaphram back inside. When you change the pump be sure and change the "sock" striner that attaches to the pump, they usually do not come with the pump and must be purchased separately. In addition, be sure all clamps are in good condition and hoses securely attached to the fuel pump, you will be dealing with considerably more pressure than with the original pump. Its a good idea to number or mark the two fuel lines that attach on the passenger side of the pipes at the filler neck to make sure these are reattached to the proper pipes. To keep from marring your paint, I would use old towels or similar to cover the rear deck around the filler hole kinda like a surgical site, there will be alot of twisting and turning trying to get the pump out and it would be easy to scratch paint.
Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82
Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82
Makes no sense to do one and not the other. My dealer had the kits in stock, but there were some addtional parts he had to order. Don't remember, it was about 6 years ago. If you have the '82 service manual, just follow that, it has good pictures and diagrams, I never did one before I did mine and it was not too hard, make sure you the injectors on the right side, they are different.
Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82
Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82