After three years of rebuilding I was trying to get my car on the road this summer to finally enjoy it when disaster struck!  I was rebuilding the clutch linkage and installing a BRAND NEW ball stud to the engine block that the cross shaft rides on when the stud broke off in the block!  I didn't even apply much force so I'm thinking I was sold a cheap re-build kit (from a major Corvette Restoration supply house) but thats a topic for another post!  I think you know what happens next.  I try to center punch and drill the broken bolt in order to insert an EZ out and pray that works, well it gets worse!  The hardened steel drill bit broke in the bolt.  Not sure if there is another kind of bit I can use to drill IT out, diamond tipped?  At this point I packed up my tools in disgust. I sure hope I don't have to pull the engine to get this fixed or I will certainly spend another summer driving my Honda!   I'm considering welding a rod to the bolt to turn it out but it broke off flush with the block so I don't know if that's possible.  If anyone has any suggestions or knows of a good shop in Central Jersey that can help, it would sure be appreciated.  Signed: Discouraged in Jersey!

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Mario

I feel yer pain brother...I feel yer pain....btdt.

However...there is hope. There are brackets available to use for the blocks that do NOT have the hole for the clutch ball..not all were drilled/tapped for it. The bracket actually bolts to the bellhousing. I can't remember where I've seen them, but I do know they are available. Might do a search, or check a Hot Rod/custom builder website to see what is available. I'll look and see, too....


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Try Summit:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OER-3932760

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All is not lost.  A few years ago, I was working on my 1929 Chevy and managed to break off one of the exhaust studs into the exhaust manifold.

I tried everything from easy-outs, a torch, and every brand of gunk there is out there to no avail.

In desperation, I was searching the internet and came across a company in nearby Orange County that claimed to disintegrate broken studs and restore the part.

I dropped the exhaust manifold off at Noon and picked it up at 4pm.  $70.  You couldn't tell there had ever been a problem with the piece.

Here's a company in Long Beach California to give you an idea.  http://www.kleinindustrialservices.com/metal-disintegration.php

I know your part is not the same as a manifold but some of these companies make house calls.

Anyway, good luck.

Jim

This is the company I went to, just found them again using a search for "broken stud removal."  My results are all local to me via google but your results may be near you.

http://www.brokentap.com/index.html?gclid=CPGOy5qG_q8CFSo0QgodHDboRA



|UPDATED|5/13/2012 1:02:42 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Wow!  You guys are great!  I knew I would get help on the forum.  (On Mother's Day no less, hope I didn't get you in trouble!) I'll look into these suggestions and keep you posted.

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Mario

Boken bolts do bite....  you might, just might be able to drill it out even with the other bit broke off into it... by using a 'left handed' drill bit.  Not sure about the size of the bolt that is broken, but somehow 5/16 comes to mind, maybe 3/8...but, might be worth a try with a lefty drill bit, if it catches it could twist the bolt out... fingers crossed for ya !!! 

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StingrayJim
NCM Lifetime Member #1936

Stingray's '76���������������������������� StingrayJr's '78���������������������������Lil Red '94

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I too am completely impressed with the knowledge you guys have.  I am good at detailing, but at mechanical work...I SUX!  The knowledge you guys have can ONLY be accumulated through experience and no one can teach that (except at the "school of hard knocks").  I truly wished that I lived closer to some of you guys (for the southern fols that would be Y'ALL).

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Warning: The surgeon general has declared that it is NOT unhealthy to smoke your competition AND I just discovered that my corvette is a hybred.  It burns gas and rubber! 

You might try a good punch, if you can get at it try to get on the outer edge of the stud and tap it to unscrew it. If it's flush this might work for you and not mess anything up. Good luck!

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I would try the punch thing too..from the sounds of it you were installing the new part..it may be that the punch may work as the threads should not be completely seized..if you can find a small punch of a decent length it may get it out..make sure you hit the easy out as it may loosen it on the way out...I have a tool I bought years ago that has fingers that go into the 4 spots on a 4 sided easy out...it works sometimes..but it usually just got bent...I have 3 types of easy outs...they all look brand new..I don't use them because of this issue.

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My first parade at Carlisle 2010

I say forget about the busted stud/bit/easeout....go with one of these...or one from any other supplier like this. For $26, it just ain't worth the hassle of messing with that other stuff....imo.



http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/gm-mechanical-clutch-linkage-bracket-for-use-with-advance-adapters-nv4500-bellhousings/


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Here's another, different one, but you get the idea....


http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-aluminum-bellhousing-clutch-cross-shaft-bracket-1955-1957.html


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

GM makes them too. One for Corvettes, unsure of the year applications and another shorter one that positions the pivot ball in the stock location. These are made for the late model BB that do not have a provision to add a ball stud. The spacing would be the same on a small block.

http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-dickey-parts-center/sdcb

http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-dickey-parts-center/sdcbv

Thanks Phillip! I wasn't aware the SD had stuff like that...I shoulda known tho....

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Wow , I'm impressed guys. That's why this place is the best   .

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Jimmy B.
Just can't wait to get on the road again.

 
                             Click to see larger views!

Thanks for all the info guys.  I did not try any of the suggestions yet but will do so this weekend and keep you posted!  I'm hoping that if the punch or weldiong techniques do not work I can get one of the brackets.  I did investigate the bracket form Summit but that is for the frame side, I need something to hold the Z Bar on the engine side!  Checking the other links out as well and will let you all know so if anyone else falls victim to this in the future we can pass along the info! Thanks.

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Mario

In my searching for a bracket like you need, I ran across several different forums with guys that HAD the exact same issue....the ball end broken off in the block, and all efforts to remove it were unsuccessful. It sux, but there's usually always a solution...eventually. Good luck..hope trying the punch method gets it loose...I've used that method many times with great results, but...usually, if you have already broken an ease-out up in there, the bolt is in there too tight to punch it out...
I don't know of any way to get a broken drill bit out, tho, unless you can get at it with a pointy punch good enough to just break pieces of it out, a little at a time.


|UPDATED|5/16/2012 8:42:36 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Thanks Joel and everyone else.  The news continues to be bleak, I contacted the manufacturers of the brackets listed above and they are telling me they are either for the frame side or for use with custom bellhousings, etc. so I will try the punch method this weekend.   If that doesn't work I'm going to try to weld a rod and bolt to the broken stud.  The challenge is I've never done welding before although I have a new unused MIG welder in the garage - no time like the present to learn!  Anyone have experience with welding directly on the engine block with a MIG welder?  I'm sure theres a bunch of precautions I should take - disconnect electrical circuits, alternator, battery, fire protection, etc.  I've done a bunch of research and watched a bunch of videos but there's nothing like actually trying it!  Wish me luck!

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Mario

A mig welder should be good for this.
Disconnect the battery. You shouldn't have to be concerned about anything else, since there's really not any electronics in the car(computers, etc.) If you have a good chain, bolt it to the engine somewhere, and lay in on the floor. That will create a ground IF any errant electrical current happens to go the wrong way.

Bellhousings are bellhousings....the bolts are still in the same location on the block....I don't unnerstand why one of them wouldn't work for your application. There's gotta be one somewhere...I know there is.


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Joel, thanks I agree with your last post re: bellhousings - but the tech departments at these web stores are basically telling me no go!  I'll look harder if/when the welding fails!  Regarding the chain, good idea but I am kinda paranoid now.   When searching the web I found an article about a guy who electrocuted himself while welding a feed wagon while laying on the damp ground.  Granted his welder had frayed connections and he was lying right on the bare ground, but makes you think! Since I will be laying under the car I'm thinking I'm going to lay down some plywood or something to lay on!

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Mario

We have some kind of machine that burns out broken drill bits at work. Not sure how it works...

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LIFETIME MEMBER 151

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LIFETIME MEMBER 151

Well ...tried the punch method, no joy, going to try the welding next.  Had to remove the header thats was fun!  Now I need to do some grinding to get a flat surface.  Have no clue how I'm going to get a washer or nut to stay in place vertically while I weld. I'd include a few pictures but they are all over 1 Meg can't figure out how to compress and upload (I guess thats a different forum?)  Suggestions?

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Mario

I'd put a dab of silicone on it to hold it in place.

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LIFETIME MEMBER 151

Another update - well, don't know what I was thinking - that I could waltz into the garage set up the MIG rig and weld away!  NOT!  I did get the welder set up and took me a while to learn how to strike and control the arc (I've never welded before!).  Ran out of practice materials so went to the Home Depot for some more so I can continue to practice before I even dare to get the welder near my car.  SO the saga continues....! Here's a pic of the culprit, hope I uploaded it correctly!

https://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/10001_10100/10002/FZF8D_Broken_bolt.jpg


(huge image converted to live link-aapple)






|UPDATED|5/22/2012 9:28:41 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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Mario

Just a thought...if your looking for metal to practice welding go to a body shop..tons of scrap go flying out of here every month..

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My first parade at Carlisle 2010

Is that pic of the broken drill bit, or just the broken stud?
Ida no...that's a toughy there...welding a rod, or bolt to the end of that is gunna be hard to do, as small as it is. If you do manage to get something welded to it, heat the block up around that stud boss before trying to twist it out. You might also try tapping around that boss a little with a small hammer, to help break it loose.
If all else fails, you MIGHT be able to use a die-grinder with a carbide burr(cutter), and get right in the center of that thing, and see if you can grind it down....
This is gunna be one of those frustrating situations that you may need to back off of for a while, and then come back later to try something else...


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Joel, Thanks for the feedback, you gave me a great idea, what if I were to cut a vertical (or horizontal) slot in the end of the bolt and use a regular or philips screwdriver to back it out?  Remember this was a brand new stud that broke, I already had the old one out, so I do not believe it is seized and I know its not cross threaded.  Here's a pic of the broken ball socket.  Did you resize that  one?  I'll try to make it smaller this time!last

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Mario

I'm a little confused now...easy enough to do...
Do you have a broken off drill bit in the stud or not? I thought you said in your original post that you had broken a drill bit off in it.
Anyway...you could grind a slot in it...I thought about that too, but don't know about the possibility of getting into the casting there. If that doesn't bother you, then it's definitely worth a shot.

and yeah...I changed the life-sized image to a link in your post above....


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Well I think if you never welded before I think I would hire a real good welder to come over to the house and do it, instead of welding a bolt I would weld on a grade 8 nut making sure the first pass was tied in good to both the inside of the stud and nut, IT WILL BE MORE LIKE A PLUG WELD THAN A PASS, fill up the rest of  nut without burning up the nut, let it cool to stone cold, if the treads were clean and not cross treaded  say you prayers and it should come out, mite not hurt to offer the welder a Ben Franklin if it comes out clean, where did that piece of crap stud come from?...BTW FOR THOSE NOT EXPERENCED IN WELDING WE ARE TALKING ABOUT WELDING THE INSIDE OF THE NUT TO THE BROKEN STUD SO THERES NO MISTAKE, ALSO THE INSIDE OF THE NUT IS TO BE SMALLER THAT THE OUTSIDE OF THE BROKEN STUD SO ONE DOES'NT WELD THE NUT TO THE BLOCK BY MISTAKE, 1/2" STUB 3/8" NUT AND SO ON , A GOOD EXPERENT WELDER WILL KNOW WHAT TO DO, GOOD LUCK!!

|UPDATED|5/23/2012 6:52:08 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

3 guesses to the answer to that last question Joe, and the 1st 2 don't count. The vendor should be ashamed. Guess there's not much good American steel made anymore.

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Jimmy B.
Just can't wait to get on the road again.

 
                             Click to see larger views!

Looking at the photo of the block the longer bracket would be needed if you had to use one, the oil pressure fitting may present a problem if the bracket were needed.

I have had success using a small pointed punch and a small hammer to turn broken studs and back them out. It sometimes takes a little work to get them to move but once moving it will unscrew. If the stud is bottomed hard into the hole this method will not work.

If you can get a drill into the area, center punch a hole as close to the center as possible and using left hand drill bits drill a hole all the way through. This relieves some of the pressure on the threads. Using the left hand drill bit I have had the bit grab the broken stud before it drilled through and screw the broken piece out. I have a Snap On set of left hand bits and start with the smallest size and work up.

I have a bother in law that used to break almost every bolt he tightened. I find it easier to fix his vehicles for him than removing the broken bolts

SUCCESS!  Thanks for all the input.  I was going to try the welding if all else failed and Anips suggestion was a good one, hire someone, not a time to learn on one's own.  Also I meant to say I was going to weld a nut to the stud not another bolt, for those interested there are many videos on you tube using this method one called "the right way to remove a broken bolt" where they start by welding a washer to the stud, then a nut to the washer.  however all the videos show this being done on a nice flat surface, not vertically under a car! HOWEVER, thanks to Joel's suggestion I used a dremel tool with a cut off disc and cut a slot into the bolt and it came right out with a screwdriver.  Yes I cut into the block a bit but I ground the edge down a bit and will add a washer to the stud to make up for it. Joel there was a broken drill bit it there but i was able to drill it out and then cut the slot.  I'm not sure I'm allowed to say where I got the part that broke, but it is one of the major Corvette reproduction supply houses that I have been a loyal customer of for years (not a C3R sponsor either).  Sent them an email and included a picture of the broken part days ago, still no reply! Philip thanks for the info on the left handed bits (Snap-on)  I have not been able to find them anywhere, good to keep in the toolbox!  ANYWAY THANKS EVERYONE THIS IS WHAT MAKES C3R SO GREAT!

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Mario

Mario, I'm SOOOOOOOOOOOOO glad that you worked things out. Way to go!

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Very good news, now get back to the great summer cruises.

Great news!

Hey, my Dad grew up in Hillsborough!

Jim

Jim, Small world, how did he wind up clear across the country?

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Mario

This is why I love this Forum !

WWII.  His National Guard unit was mobilized and 5 years later he was discharged in San Pedro, CA from the US Army.

Bring on those cruises!!! Great Job!

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"Down on the Boardwalk...

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