1973 L-82 4 spd
I spend a few extra scheckles and get the K & N Oil Filter.
Maybe its overkill for my '79 L-48, but I like peace of mind.Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
1973 L-82 4 spd
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
On a related topic, what type of oil do you use? I have been using "regular" oil (i.e., not synthetic) 10w-30. I was once told not to use synthetic on these older cars. Since the car is not drive much, I only change the oil twice a year. Is that about what everyone else is doing too?
We recommend using petroleum 10w30 motor oil on break in to ensure proper piston ring seating. If you allow 1500 to 2000 miles in a street engine or 20 to 30 minutes on the dyno at low rpm, the rings will have had sufficient time to seat and the high initial break-in wear will have occurred.
I enjoy all the good feedback. This is helping me to decide how to take care of my 69 427. I do have a small oil leak from the rear main seal. I am concerned about switching to a synthetic. Will I develop more leaks?? Do I keep the same Valvoline Max life 10w40 and add zddp? I am looking at Brad Penn oils? I know there are so many options. Just trying to sort it all out.
Joe Gibbs Racing uses the BR for the first 2 hours on a new or rebuilt engine to break-in the cams and seat the rings. After 2 hours on the dyno, JGR switches to the correct viscosity synthetic oil for that engine build.
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I didn't use Joe Gibbs break-in oil in my new motor but I did use Comp Cams break-in and left it in for 100 or 150 miles after the cam break-in and then switched to the Joe Gibbs hot rod oil. I should be good as far as ring seating. I hope.
1973 L-82 4 spd
1973 L-82 4 spd
1973 L-82 4 spd
1973 L-82 4 spd