Adams' Apple said: True.
I read about 1/4 way thru that Wiki thing, and started laughing. It's no different than anything else, tho. Wiki lets anyone that wants to add to/edit everything, so ya never really know what yer gunna get....kinda like a box o chok-o-lits.

As usual, your opinion is always welcomed and often sought out.  I wished that I was as smart as you in JUST ONE THING.

 

 

After the new radiator, A/C working and before the 2014 caravan, I will be hunting a 700 transmission.  Of course, I still have that valve seal issue, but is is half better...only ONE quart per tank of gas instead of two, like last spring. 

 

p.s. I was at a car show at Hendrick Motor Sports in Concord, NC this past Saturday.  They had trophies for the top 200 (almost 700 cars registered) and I got a top 200.  I also got one more confirmation from a man who has a '74 and has run a body shop his entire life, that my paint is original.  3 mechanics and myself have never found ANY overspray.  This guy I met looked at the hairline fractures around the passenger door lock and told me that (to him) this was a very good sign that the car had never been re-painted.  

As far as some questions , if you buy the correct cross member from BTO your exhaust will be fine . Cost for a locally built unit and you supply the core should be under 1000.00 . I would guess a good shop if you bring the cross member , shifter linkages ,TV cable and core would then get around 1200.00 for rebuild and instillation . You will be out of pocket about 1600.00 total with the additional parts .

If you go on line with BTO and others you may be closer to 2k plus . But let me say I did not avoid on line for money , I stayed local because a transmission is not like a crate motor , it is not 100% new it is rebuilt and if you have an issue your local guys can deal with it, your not forced to pull it ship it back and wait on another one . 

Grrr had a error posting yet it posted and I double posted ,, must have gears slipping lmao 

Case75 said:So where did these two trannys evolve from or were they clean sheet designs. And why have two different RWD OD trannys at the same time? For torque capacity and size maybe??

Adams' Apple said:
I been kinda following along on this one, but I had to jump in...sorry...I just cain't help meself....


" itself was derived from a cheaper version of the THM350"
Uh...not....
Other than the steel checkballs in the valve body, and the use of Dextron fluid, there is absolutely nothing in a 200/2004R that is derived from the 350 series transmissions. These are two totally different transmission designs.

"A 700R4 is derived from the THM400. "
Uh...again...not...
The 700 is closer to the 350 trans, and even uses the same low/reverse clutches and steels, as well as the center support/low-reverse sprag. The 350(non-lock up) and 400 transmissions can use the same torque converters, but the 350 usually has a smaller diameter converter. The 400 converter will NOT fit the BOP(Buick/Olds/Pontiac) 350s, due to the shape of the bellhousing on those units.

All things being equal, and they rarely are, I would always go for a 700 over the 2004R. Yeah...I know...the 2004R is an easier swap, but the 700 is a better overall trans, with better 1st and O/D ratios. I've heard all of the guys claiming how stout the 2004R is, "They used them in the Burick Grand Nationals and T-Types". This am true, BUT...those transmissions had a LOT of upgrades done, and they still failed.
I do quite a few 700s for guys that are swapping them out for their 400 or 350s....I have yet to have anyone ax me to build a 2004R for them.
This am all just my opinion....I got no dog in this hunt, so....just trying to add a little more info.

 If you have done some of those 700 conversions, would you mind enlightening us

on an exact procedure  .... inquiring minds want to know. 

yea, I know there are tons of information but if someone here has the blue prints 

for doing it that would be great, since the 200r4 swap is "easy" this might

make more lean towards the 700 over the 200. not all of us have a shop... either in

our backyard  or have the money to pay a shop for this conversion.. mainly

speaking for myself :)

rod7515 said: When finishing the 72 I decided to go with an overdrive trans to help during highway driving since I hope to do a lot of it going to the beach. My researched lead me to a 2004r because of the easier installation compared to a 7004r. The main differences in the installation from what I was told (and I can only go by that information since I never did a 7004r swap) are as follows and also keep in mind I was going from a TH400, I could use the original cross member without any modifications. That was true. The original exhaust still worked going thru the cross member. However when I changed exhaust I did have to change the cross member because of exhaust size. The trans mount is the same as well. Now as for the drive shaft I did not have to cut the shaft, but I did have to change out the input shaft and the front universal joint as well. Those are the only differences I ran into. I Purchased my trans from BTO and they upgraded many parts internally so the trans will hold up. Of course with each level of transmission upgrade so does the level of price of the trans. (local trans shop would have done a 2004r trans but none could change internal componets and machine work}The swap itself was easy but you have to go with a TV cable and plate to set it up. I had to make some brackets to fit up for the plate that goes under the carb which also raises the carb just a little bit more toward the hood! I have also installed an upgrade so the converter wont lock up until I reach 45 MPH and will drop out of lockup if I go below 45 MPH. Another $200 bucks. Its worth it! Now as for the gearing from what I understand is that the 1st and 2nd gearing is different with the 7004r having better gearing but once in 3rd gear both are at 1:1 and locked up in OD the 7004r is .70:1 while the 2004r is a .67:1. (if this isnt right let me know} Im not sure what the RPM difference would be but it cant be very much. I run 70MPH @ 2400/2500 RPMs with 4:11 gears. I am happy with the 2004r trans but I would guess if I went with a 7004r trans I would be happy as well.
Now as for the lugging when in OD I experienced this myself before I removed my factory 3:08 rear and installed the 4:11 rear. Mine would lug even at 50MPH and I would have to pull it down into 3rd. Some of that could be due to the cam where a stock engine may not give you that problem as bad. I dont race the car but I do manually shift it so I can feel the shifts! But that is optional!
Well thats my experience. As I said I am happy but only have 800 miles since completing it. Thats probably about the most miles I'll drive it a year so it should last a while.
Rodney

I have a 3.55 rear gear.

Anyway, Here is just a little info