So.... when I first got my 79 5 years ago, the A/C did not work.  I think the following summer, I put the R134 connectors on it, and shot it full of R134.  A/C worked.  I must have gone the next few summers without it, because it stopped working again and I just never got around to shooting it with more R134. 

So, with my impending trip to Pigeon Forge less than 1 week away... and considering the temperatures in PF will be up there, I figured I'd go pick up a new can of R134 and shoot it in.  Well... I got the can and as luck would have it... where the fill connector is, it is right up against the compressor support and the connection from the fill hose would not fit!  I won't bore you with details.... but I wound up getting an extension hose and that worked.  I shot some R134 in there.

Still, no A/C.  Compressor never turned on.  I called my personal phone support (aka kstyer) and he helped me diagnose the problem.  Again, I won't bore you with the details, but after about 12 phone calls to Ken, and a couple of trips to the store, he helped me determine that the A/C compressor clutch was broken.  So, I was left with a couple of choices... replace the whole compressor w/clutch, or replace just the clutch.  Ken told me how to do just the clutch, but I decided I just don't have the time, patience or correct tools (that I could rent) to do it.  So I decided to take it to a mechanic.  The next trick was to find someone capable of working on my Vette, on such short notice and have only 3 days to get 'er done. 

So this morning, I found a little shop within 10 minutes of my house that actually specializes in Vettes (among other things). The owner has 4 Vettes himself.  He said he could get me in today, but he'd have to replace the compressor and clutch, because he doesn't have the tools to do just the clutch.  I figured, with me running out choices and time, I'd let him do it.

Ken had warned me that once I got the clutch (and compressor) replaced that that may not be my only issue.  During our diagnostics, we were not getting power to the compressor, even when the A/C switch was on on the console. 

I spoke to the shop just a little while ago...they replaced the compressor/clutch.  Charged the system. Still no A/C.  And just as Ken suspected, the clutch only kicks on when they jump it.  So now they are on to tracing the electrical issue.  (can you say $$$$).

More tomorrow....  Keep your fingers crossed for me that they find it, quickly!  And that I'll have nice cold A/C for my trip to PF.  2 days left, and counting!!!!
Adam38887.5869907407

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-Adam Wartell
NCM Lifetime Member #1222
Founder: C3 Vette Registry 
C4 Vette Registry, C6 Vette Registry

My first Vette, now owned by JB79:

If the  compressor clutch engages when they jump it, I assume you mean they are unplugging the lead from the pressure switch and jumping across the plug, the the first problem may be the pressure switch. A very common problem.
They need to check for voltage at the compressor before and after jumping the terminal. If the clutch is engaging and the compressor is turning and it is still not cold then they need to look for a blockage or moisture in the system.

I just went through this process myself, with Ken's help, and my 75 will now run you out of the cockpit. I am confident yours will do the same in a day or so.
Scott
ranger338887.7834027778

Scott, How deep did you have to go to get your AC to work that well ? What did you replace ? I'm trying to get mine working (It's still the orginal Compressor, I think) Do I convert or start with a new up to date Compressor ?

[QUOTE=
I just went through this process myself, with Ken's help, and my 75 will now run you out of the cockpit. I am cinfident yours will do the same in a day or so.
Scott

warbird38887.7284606481

If the compressor engages when the pressure switch is jumped, the switch is bad, or there is not enough freon in the system. Jumping the pressure switch tells you it has power, so there should be no other electrical issues, other than the pressure switch.
If they have to power the compressor from somewhere else, then you have more diagnostics, aka:$$$
Hey, I'm drivin in from Texas with no A/C...buck up!!

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Warbird,
If you are still running an R12 system then you sould definitely convert to R134A. The cost of R12 is extremely high and you need a license/certification to buy it.
I had to change the hose assembly that runs between the receiver, compressor and evaporator. I also changed all of the o-rings when I had it apart. My compressor was okay but the pressure switch was bad so I also replaced it.
Once it was all assembled I pulled it down with a vacuum pump for about 45 minutes to get all of the moisture out of the system. Ken said that this is very important because if there is moisture present in the system that it will not cool properly. Once it was pulled down I then introduced the R134A, through a manifold guage set, while the car was running and the A/C was on high. I filled it with about 2 lbs. of R134A and the low and high pressure was at the values that Ken specified.

After it was fully charged it was blowing at 34-36 degrees at the vents. The vacuum pump and manifold set also shows you the condition of all the hoses and seals. If it will not hold the vacuum, then it is leaking somewhere.  I hope this helps. I could not have done this job without Ken's advice and wisdom. I still owe him a tall iced tea.
Scott
ranger338887.7949074074

Here's an interesting article about R134a but it could be BS for all I know.

http://www.deadly134.com/

WOW!!
I guess you can post anything you want on the net!!
I call BS on this one.
A break in an A/C line as the result of impact/crash would release the refrigerant almost instantly. It would not contribute to keeping a fire going long enough to burn a car to the ground.
Strangely enough, I can't remember reading, or otherwise hearing of a massive amount of deaths while driving a car with a 134a refirgerant leak. If this is true, then all of the automakers on the planet are due for some wild lawsuits!!
134a is as safe as any other refrigerant we've ever used in autos, and safer than some of the "blends" some folks have on the market. Can you say "propane"?

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Thanks Scott, We still have some R12 at work, but I should switch over. Once I get the project done I'll post an update.

Cookie

I charged mine up on Sunday just to make sure it will be nice and cold. It works great, lets hope it stays that way. I hope you get yours fixed in time, I have a feeling we are going to need it.         

Dave

DaveM38888.2780671296

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Lifetime Member #116
Dave's '82

   

They called me a minute ago...

It's fixed!!!

The compressor (clutch) was definately shot. So compressor was replaced.
Two wires had to be repaired, to and from the pressure switch.
And the pressure switch had to be cleaned up.
Filled with R134A.
...It's blowing cold!!!

Cost me 500 and change, but if it works, and it stays working for a long time, it'll have been worth it!!

I had asked them to also change the oil while it was in there, but they didn't do that yet... so I asked them to before I picked it up...and when I asked how much that would cost, they said "don't worry about it".  Also asked them to check the air in the tires. 

I can pick it up tomorrow and should be all set for Thursday!!! I'm so excited!

btw, name of the shop is Trappe Auto in Trappe, PA.  So, I'd recommend these guys!!  Like I mentioned, one of their specialties is Vettes... and currently, I believe it!




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-Adam Wartell
NCM Lifetime Member #1222
Founder: C3 Vette Registry 
C4 Vette Registry, C6 Vette Registry

My first Vette, now owned by JB79:

Good news, Adam!! You be chillin!! Adams' Apple38888.7423032407

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"

Very cool!

Pardon the pun.

Sarge

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GEN III 5.7L "LS6" Engine swap
TKO500 5 spd.

[QUOTE=Adams' Apple]Good news, Adam!! You be chillin!! [/QUOTE]

He be Mr. Freeze....      Congrats on the A/C.  Now get down here!!!!   

[QUOTE=Adams' Apple]WOW!!
I guess you can post anything you want on the net!!
I call BS on this one.
A break in an A/C line as the result of impact/crash would release the refrigerant almost instantly. It would not contribute to keeping a fire going long enough to burn a car to the ground.
Strangely enough, I can't remember reading, or otherwise hearing of a massive amount of deaths while driving a car with a 134a refirgerant leak. If this is true, then all of the automakers on the planet are due for some wild lawsuits!!
134a is as safe as any other refrigerant we've ever used in autos, and safer than some of the "blends" some folks have on the market. Can you say "propane"? [/QUOTE]

Hey Adam, I can also say BUTANE. Stay away from blends!! I do a/c and all I need is to touch off a flamable gas with my elec. leak detector. Also you guy's who are retro fitting your r12 to 134a, be sure to put the proper oil (pag or ester) or it may cause a compressor sieze. mineral oil does not move well with r134a. If you can get as much mineral oil out as you can and replace with propper oil. Seen it happen Terry

my7T138889.2852314815

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Click on images for Before and After pics!

Guys;

Speaking of old wives tails, I was told by one of the locals that you don't have to evacuate the system, just put the R-134a in on top after changing the fittings.  I am extremely hesitant to follow this advice.

Any thoughts would be helpful.  I have an '80 that blows cooler than ambient now but just barely, and has the 134 tips on it, but the PO told me he never put 134 in it, that it still has R-12.  I don't want to cause more cost than necessary so any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.  I have the guages and don't mind changing out the freon (with some advice, as I haven't ever done this before), but not an evacuator for the vacuum draw.  I assume they are rentable or cheap to buy?

Godspeed and Safe Travels to all you headed to PF.  I hope to be in attendance next year to buy beverages for Joel, Ken and others that have helped me out!

Dennis

dnv38889.5812962963

Well Dennis, the truth of the matter is any shop that retro fits to anythig other than the car was designed for and does not lable and have recycling equip. is liable for a $25,000.00 fine. The EPA was in here a couple of years ago making sure I was, by law, doing it right. And not blowing refridegerant into the atmosphere. If you decide to change over to 134a to do it right you need to get rid of all the r12 and put the proper oil in. (pag 150) is what i use. Then if the system is opened YES you need to evacuate to get all the moisture out. Then u can charge it with 134a. As stated above ther are flamable materials in some of the drop in refridgerants. I would not use anything other than r12 or 134a. I have r12 on hand. If the system is designed for it that's what i use. Big time expensive though. Vac pumps also are not cheap for a good one $200.00- $450.00. Hope this helps. Its going to be a little lonely here this weekend with most of you in TN. Have fun guy's Terry

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Click on images for Before and After pics!

Thanks Terry;

The PO was one who could have spent the extra $5 at the time and saved me LOTS of headaches...

Since there is no way to confirm the existence of either fluid, and since the fittings have been installed for 134, I will evacuate and recharge. Thanks to the old friend of a friend, I found a guy at work who has a buddy in the heat and air business who will evac the old out per EPA regs so that I can refill and fix as necessary based on how the pressure holds.

With the weather here in the 90's and heading toward 100 for the 4th of July, I'm looking forward to cool.

Dennis

Found out today just before heading out to the barn to do some A/C work that if you hook into the low side at the compressor not to run the freon in as liquid. Can mess up the compressor(???). The service manual shows cans inverted but the low hose hooked up at the accumulator. Guess it makes a difference. Was gonna have my white 79s A/C evacuated and checked but I put my gauges on it last night and showed a slight charge. Decided to just hit it with a few cans of R12. Took 2, ice cold now. Ended up putting a can and a half in the black 79 and not wanting to waste any put 1/2 can in the 78SA. Hope Im good for a while now. Got the R12 off ebay, about $17 per can for 14oz. Had to get certified. That's a joke, scored 25 of 25 but anyone can pass a test where you get to look everything up!  Mike

Glad to hear Adam's car is cool!  The problems as were expected with some phone diagnosis.

The article about the R134A is about the biggest bunch of total bull S**T I have ever seen.   That guy is so far off base he is not even in the ball park.

But the change from R12 to R134A does follow a money trail.  Remind me to tell about it when I have a bit more time.  Perhaps this weekend.

No you should not mix R12 with R134A.  They don't like each other.  They fight instead of doing their job.  A/C performance suffers.  And the chemicals can create acids and cause some damage to the system over time.  This can happen with any refrigerent over time when mixed with moisture, but the blended combo hastens it along.

 

Well majority of everyones A/C is fixed and mine just went out on me today.     I'm not going to complain.  I should of taken care of it long time ago.   I hear the shop calling....   

Windows do just fine for me. 

Iron8238889.946724537

[QUOTE=Iron82]

Well majority of everyones A/C is fixed and mine just went out on me today.     I'm not going to complain.  I should of taken care of it long time ago.   I hear the shop calling....   

Windows do just fine for me. 

[/QUOTE]

Tell Ya how I fixed mine. I ganked to whole enchalada right out. Cuttin into my horsepower. Beside that my evaportor started leaking and the compressor was missing when I bought the car. If I ever sell her I'll probably hook it back up. T-top off, back window  out is more fun. You can hear the rumble of fine exhaust better than a stereo.

my7T138890.2125231481

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Click on images for Before and After pics!

[QUOTE=my7T1]Tell Ya how I fixed mine. I ganked to whole enchalada right out. Cuttin into my horsepower. Beside that my evaportor started leaking and the compressor was missing when I bought the car. If I ever sell her I'll probably hook it back up. T-top off, back window  out is more fun. You can hear the rumble of fine exhaust better than a stereo.[/QUOTE]

My lady and I have decided to not remove any of the components.   She wants to leave as is.  Making the vette original as possible.   I'll fix the darn thing when I return from having a blast in PF with the others.   Time spent with C3VR:  PRICELESS     

Hi again guy's. Well I found my chart on some of the flamable drop in refridgerants. Frigc (FR-12) is 2% butane, Autofrost/Chillit & R-406AGHG/Mcool are 4% isobutane Hotshot/ Karcool is 1.5% isobutane. Like Adam says 134A & R12 are not flamable & the only way you should go. Any other blends & your taking a chance on a SERIOUS meltdown. I saw a video where they put Butane based ref. in a car & put a small hole in the evaporator. They  set off a spark inside the car. It blew the drivers door off and all the windows blew out. Not a good choice of ref. Terry

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Click on images for Before and After pics!