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8/3/13 11:23pm - Original Message: 'air conditioner'
movie collector Lifetime Member
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Summerville, SC - USA

Vette(s):
My 1974 Vette sold last August 2014. I am still willing to show up to events and local gatherings if anything happening No new vette yet.

Joined: 8/31/2005
Posts: 660
Where can i purchase a new compressor for my 74 vette?  I replaced everything for my air conditioning but the compressor is locked up so I need to replace it.
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8/4/13 8:29am - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
apasbigal
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goldens bridge, NY - USA

Vette(s):
1972 T-Top 350 auto, matching numbers,Blue, ac

Joined: 11/3/2003
Posts: 498
Corvette Central has new ones, perhaps one of our sponsors. Big Al

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8/4/13 11:17am - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
dyoes
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Zachary, LA - USA

Vette(s):
1974 L-48 Auto. Just your basic Vette. GM crate motor w/vortec heads and intake. Crane cam. Scorpion rockers, Edelbrock carb. Lots of parts still in boxes... :(

Joined: 1/27/2013
Posts: 201
The original A6 compressors are pretty cheap.  I buy a lot of parts from partsgeek.com, and they have it listed (with the clutch) for $251.  Ecklers is close at $259.  You can save a few bucks if your clutch is still good, but to be honest, it's worth the $70 or so to buy the new clutch and not have the hassle of swapping it.

Have you converted to R134a?  R12 is almost impossible to find now.  But the compressor will run on 134a or R12, it doesn't care.  But to run 134a you'll have to replace hoses, orings, and any other soft rubber. 




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8/4/13 4:51pm - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
ebo Lifetime Member
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Holland Patent, NY - USA

Vette(s):
#1 *1980 White, Red interior 14,000 mile #2 *1980 Red, Oyster interior 93,000 miles Resto project car, rebuilt to 383 stroker

Joined: 6/3/2008
Posts: 4395
I see it for sale on ebay but it is not cheap. Is there a change over kit some one sells for the hose's and O-rings?
My 80 needs a charge and I'm not sure what way to go?
ebo


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8/4/13 5:23pm - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
dyoes
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Zachary, LA - USA

Vette(s):
1974 L-48 Auto. Just your basic Vette. GM crate motor w/vortec heads and intake. Crane cam. Scorpion rockers, Edelbrock carb. Lots of parts still in boxes... :(

Joined: 1/27/2013
Posts: 201
This one is expensive, but includes a new compressor. 

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-air-conditioning-conversion-kit-r12-to-r134a-1977late-1982.html


But if your compressor is working and working well, I would not change it.  Just do the o-rings, drier, etc. and go for it.  Zip has this kit:

http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductDetails/ProductDetails.aspx?pid={9DE4A3C8-24E6-48EB-9957-10C62C6615D0}&gid={0F53E5DD-AA47-4F11-BE11-843B5C019195}&pname=68-90+R-134A+Conversion+Kit&Referer=&Alias=&ptct=SGR-SR&CTitle=&   You'd have to add the drier and o-rings to do it right.  (on the bottom of the page)

With any of them, you'd have to do a total evacuation before and after the install, which means having a vacuum pump and good set of gauges.  Not that expensive, although a cheaper way is to ply a friend with beer to do the evac and charge for you.  Beer


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8/4/13 8:31pm - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
ebo Lifetime Member
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Holland Patent, NY - USA

Vette(s):
#1 *1980 White, Red interior 14,000 mile #2 *1980 Red, Oyster interior 93,000 miles Resto project car, rebuilt to 383 stroker

Joined: 6/3/2008
Posts: 4395
Thanks Darryl, I'll check it out. Yes I do have a buddy that can do the evac & charge.
ebo


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8/4/13 10:39pm - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
F4Gary Gold Member
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Grapevine, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air.

Joined: 8/26/2006
Posts: 862
dyoes said: This one is expensive, but includes a new compressor. 

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-air-conditioning-conversion-kit-r12-to-r134a-1977late-1982.html


But if your compressor is working and working well, I would not change it.  Just do the o-rings, drier, etc. and go for it.  Zip has this kit:

http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductDetails/ProductDetails.aspx?pid={9DE4A3C8-24E6-48EB-9957-10C62C6615D0}&gid={0F53E5DD-AA47-4F11-BE11-843B5C019195}&pname=68-90+R-134A+Conversion+Kit&Referer=&Alias=&ptct=SGR-SR&CTitle=&   You'd have to add the drier and o-rings to do it right.  (on the bottom of the page)

With any of them, you'd have to do a total evacuation before and after the install, which means having a vacuum pump and good set of gauges.  Not that expensive, although a cheaper way is to ply a friend with beer to do the evac and charge for you.  Beer

How cold is the air if we switch to 134 with just a dryer and o-rings change?



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8/5/13 3:01pm - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
VinD'74
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Alexandria, VA - USA

Vette(s):
1974 - 4 speed Stingray Convertible

Joined: 5/8/2013
Posts: 25
Made a seperate thread but then saw this one so I will add to this thread as well.
 
I'm Fixing the AC system for my '74 in stages.

 

Just replaced the radiator and decided to do the condenser since I was there.  Nitrogen tested the lines and go figure the compressor leaks so that needs replacing.

 

I have been told that the rebuilt compressors are hit or miss and that these rebuild companies have poor QC.   Also originally these compressors were leak monsters lasting only a season at a time to begin with before requiring a recharge, probably why they were only warrantied for 1 season (meaning 4 months) when you bought the car brand new.

 

There is a new all aluminum compressor (silver in color) that runs about $600 that I have heard good things about them but they definitely do not look original and unfortunately this is the look I am going for.  Anyone have any luck with the alluminum or an OEM new replacement like on Zip?  

 

Also this is my first Vette, is the AC even worth pursuing, does it actually blow cold when working or even when it was new?  Most AC units work well when it's recycling cooler passenger compartment air, a convertible kind of defeats that! I also wonder if it will be even noticeable with the top down in 95 degree heat.

 

Thoughts?



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9/6/13 3:25pm - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
StingrayHawaii
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Ellijay, GA - USA

Vette(s):
Currently own: 1996 Collector Edition Coupe, LT4, 6 speed, grey interior 1982 Red on red, 59k orig miles, 1970 Maroon, Lt Saddle, Convertible, 350, 4 speed with Air and a non Corvette 2015 Slingshot Sport Trike

Joined: 1/2/2007
Posts: 27
Check Out https://www.acpartshouse.com/inventory They seem to have good prices and have a latermodel replacement compressor to replace the A6 compressor Gary

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9/11/13 9:25pm - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
So are the original OEM A6 compressors DIY rebuildable? If so where can you buy a kit? I think I've seen Joel post before that the best thing to do with the remans is to tear them apart and use them to rebuild the original. Just wondering if there's a kit to do the same thing?

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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9/11/13 10:29pm - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19449
daveo76 said:... I think I've seen Joel post before that the best thing to do with the remans is to tear them apart and use them to rebuild the original.


Well...kinda sorta what I said...LOL
I mentioned that on MY '74, that's what I was gunna do, because I wanted to keep the original compressor, with the correct dates/numbers on it. I did the same thing with my original water pump...bought a reman pump, tool all the guts/seals out, and put it all in my original pump housing.
 I wouldn't really suggest that everyone do that, but...if you're capable of doing it, then by all means go for it. The compressors are not a simple tear down/build. I don't know of any retail available rebuild kits, but they have to be available, since there are remans out there.

I'm just reeeeeeal leery of reman A/C compressors...I've been bitten too dang many times on my own vehicles, plus customer cars. For the extra $$$$ a NEW one costs, it's well worth it, imho.  Thumbs Up


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9/12/13 6:01am - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
dwright Gold Member
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Victor, NY - USA

Vette(s):
2004 Commemorative Edition Coupe, Auto w/HUD. 13K miles in 2015. Sold 1982 Red Coupe

Joined: 7/12/2004
Posts: 6756
I'm in the market for a new compressor myself. Probably wait until Spring as the budget is shot for this year.Cry

I had it converted from R12 to R134a back in 2004 when I bought the car. I can't compare the two as I never felt the R12, but the R134a was OK this past summer. 

I would guess that it was 30 degrees less than ambiant. So if it was 100 degrees outside, the air coming through the vents was 70 degrees. Not cold, but it helped.


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9/12/13 6:31am - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
Sarge81 Lifetime Member
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WEST SENECA, NY - USA

Vette(s):
1981 Blue Ice Met. w/pearl ghost flames TKO500 5speed. LS1 Swap 3.45 Dana 44.

Joined: 12/3/2001
Posts: 2376
Dave, since I'm switching out to a Sanden compressor for my LS1 swap, I do have a good compressor I took off the old engine. It's only a few years old. Let me know if your interested in it.

Sorry, not meaning to hijack this thread.


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9/12/13 1:37pm - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
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CUYAHOGA FALLS, OH - USA

Vette(s):
1975 C3 Red, T-Tops, Black Interior. All I need is time and money! Getting there!

Joined: 12/2/2003
Posts: 6410
I'm with Joel on the new vs rebuilt.  Rebuilts often fail.
If you just change the compressor without doing anything else, you can switch to r134a without a problem in most cases.  But it will lose about 10% cooling.   With the small cabin in our cars it is usually not noticable.
 
The r134a molocule is smaller than the r12 molocule, so it tends to leak out of an r12 system.  If the system is NOT flushed the old oil and operating film coating the inside of the hoses and o-rings typically will hold the 134a IF IT IS NOT FLUSHED.     Any replacement parts original for r12 WILL leak 134a.
 
If you change the compressor and use newer type o-ring, evacuate and refill the system chances are it will be good.   If you replace a leaking hose, it must be the new type that will hold 134a.  Undisturbed, the rest of the system will hold.
 
Is it best to change the entire system.  Of course it is.  As I said, it USUALLY works.  But it is a bit like picking your nose on a bumpy road, you are taking a chance.
 
 
 


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9/12/13 4:03pm - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
Great info, guys, thanks! Automotive a/c systems are a bit of a mystery to me. One of the few things I haven't learned about yet on this car - chose to ignore it mostly for the last 12 years. Not even 100% sure compressor is the problem. Last time I tried it (6 or 7 years ago) seemed to work fine and even blew cold - for about 10 minutes. Then it appeared to seize, screeched and fried the belt. Just cut the belt and unplugged the compressor and been that way since. Does this sound like compressor or something else? Corvette central sells a kit that eliminates the "troublesome VIR sticking POA and TXV" for 74-76. No idea what all those are, but could they be the issue? CC also sells an aftermarket replacement for the A6 that may be a good option - only $359 instead of $600 mentioned above. It is silver so won't look stock but it could be painted black. Sarge, if you have an A6 I'd be interested but guessing you have the newer radial style if it came off your 81? Not sure what is involved in the conversion, but sure it would be at least some brackets if not other stuff. Thanks, though. Bet there are others with newer cars (77 and up) that may be interested.

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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9/12/13 7:55pm - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
ebo Lifetime Member
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Holland Patent, NY - USA

Vette(s):
#1 *1980 White, Red interior 14,000 mile #2 *1980 Red, Oyster interior 93,000 miles Resto project car, rebuilt to 383 stroker

Joined: 6/3/2008
Posts: 4395
kstyer said:  But it is a bit like picking your nose on a bumpy road, you are taking a chance.
 
 
 



Ken, I so miss you! I hope this sighting is guna be a habit!
ebo


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9/12/13 10:03pm - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
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daveo76 said:... even blew cold - for about 10 minutes. Then it appeared to seize, screeched and fried the belt.


Compressor locked up...no way around it, it needs to be replaced....and the system flushed. Most likely, there are parts of the compressor all thru the system....Ouch

Sarge's compressor will be the R4 type....


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9/14/13 7:30am - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
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Victor, NY - USA

Vette(s):
2004 Commemorative Edition Coupe, Auto w/HUD. 13K miles in 2015. Sold 1982 Red Coupe

Joined: 7/12/2004
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Joel,
I thought that if the compressor locked up it meant that the bearings wore out and froze up.
Could it be something else?
Isn't the freon in a closed system?
How would metal particles get into the freon?
Is there a cross section drawing showing the innards?
Just curious.


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9/14/13 9:02am - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19449
There can be more than one thing that can cause an A/C compressor to lock up. The clutch bearing can certainly lock up, and burn the belt. If the pulley where the belt rides won't turn, but the compressor clutch itself will, that means the pulley bearing has failed. That can be fixed fairly easily by simply removing the clutch, and the pulley, then replacing the bearing in the pulley. Not a big deal for that.
The compressor itself failing is a much bigger problem. Compressors normally fail due to loss of oil, which happens over time. If you have an older A6 type compressor, you can see this oil loss on the underside of the hood, right above the compressor belt. The R4 compressors leak also, but not as much. The seals in A/C compressors are ceramic..no rubber there, so they WILL leak slightly. With a leaky seal, you lose oil AND freon from the system. Most folks simply top off the freon when it gets low, but no-one ever considers replacing the lost oil. If you run your engine with no oil, it will eventually seize...as will an A/C compressor. When the compressor is run low on oil, there is no lubrication, same as the engine. No lubrication means metal parts inside the compressor, such as pistons, and the swash plate(crankshaft, basically) start shedding metal. That metal is circulated thru the entire A/C system, contaminating everything, including the evaporator, condenser, and whatever type of control system it uses, whether it is a VIR, orifice tube, or expansion valve. 
That's why it's necessary to flush the entire system....in a lot of cases, the control mechanism(VIR, orifice, etc) will need to be replaced, as well as the accumulator/dryer. You can't really get ALL of the contamination out of a system without having to replace SOME components.

So....if yer real lucky, a squealing noise, and belt burning could just be the pulley bearing. But..if you cannot twist/turn the compressor clutch by hand .....the compressor is toast...Ouch




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9/14/13 1:47pm - Reply: 'Re: air conditioner'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
With the clutch disengaged like it is now and has been for the last many years, my pulley turns smooth as silk.  In fact, I sometimes still run a belt on it, just to keep the engine compartment looking finished and as a redundancy for the water pump/fan.  But, and here's where I am confused, I can also still turn the shaft (outside ring on the clutch/pulley) and it turns pretty smoothly.  There is a fair amount of resistance, but I'm assuming that is normal as it is a compressor.  No funny noises when I turn it, but I can hear the innards of the compressor doing their job.  This is why I think my comp might still be OK.  Maybe I will just replace the clutch and see if I can get it working again?  The clutch on my Dodge Dakota failed and it had very similar symptoms.  I replaced only the clutch and pulley bearing and it's been working great ever since.  

Joel, can you add to or replace the oil in the A6?  If so how/where?  

Thanks for the help on this - slowly becoming edumacated on this subject, too!  


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