Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
The metal floor pans would have had some kind of coating on them. There was usually some sort of sprayed on stuff similar to undercoating on the trans tunnel, also.The other places you mentioned will be bonded together. Remember, these cars were made up of several parts glued together. You can install your insulation over the top of all of this...it won't effect it at all. Don't try to remove the bonding adhesive("bondo") at the junctions...it may look sloppy, but it's there to hold the pieces together. Just vacuum it up nice, and lay the dynamat down...make sure to seal all of the edges & where the pieces overlap/fit together.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Vette(s): 1979 L82 4 speed Scat 383 crank 190 cc Procomp Aluminum Heads 202 160 stainless valves GM Powder metal rods Speedpro H860CP Hypereutectic pistons 280 cam hydralic HEI Pro comp 1.6 roller rockers Mighty Demon 750 Sanderson CC1AP Hedders.
Thanks man! It's not that bad, now that I can see the bottom. I was expecting a lot worse.
The previous owner didn't seem to like the plugs in the floor pan, because there wasn't any there when I ripped the carpet out. Maybe they took out the floor pan plugs to help drain the water out that was leaking from the t-tops.
I'm just gonna clean up the rotten coating, slap some seam sealer on it and some POR-15 on the floor pans. It should clean up nice!
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