Wow, nice looking job. How did you go about stripping the old paint and a guess on man hours. I'm thinking of doing the same. My paint is actually in pretty good condition overall but there are a few places where the paint looks like it has what I call zits. I'm sure there is a real term for it but anyway, it looks great.
Vette(s): 1973 coupe. LS4, M-21, DARK SADDLE LEATHER, POWER STEERING, POWER BRAKES, POWER WINDOWS, A/C, AM/FM STEREO, YELLOW ( 952 ).
Used a stripper and a whole lot of sanding. After I read Greybulls post I starting sweating about the paint remover. I asked the friend of mine that's doing my car about it, and he said the kind he uses is for fiberglass. Told me not to worry about it. It was going to be awesome. I know he's done several Corvettes in our area including his own. They all look awesome. He's a semi retired guy that mostly does custom paint jobs and specialty stuff. And anything else if he thinks he can make a buck off of it I think. So, at this point I'm not going to worry about it. More worried about getting the engine compartment and Interior looking like new again.
Thanks for responding. I know getting a car, especially a Vette, ready for paint is brutal. Just thinking about it causes my whole body to ache. To me, it's always exciting to see the finished product and knowing how much someone has sacrifice to get there.
That is looking very good, and none of the usual nicks characteristic of liquid strippers and scraping. Do you know the brand of stripper he used, I'd be interested to know if there is an improved product out there? Done very carefully, one can use liquid strippers but it does take knowing what you are doing to not damage the glass. I can tell from the sanding marks and progress though that this guy doing the work knows his business. Bonding strip lines, the little bit of bodywork I see on the driver's side quarter panel shows work from someone that has experience.
Now the building up of the primer layers and block sanding to get a good paint surface and this should come out good.
Thanks for getting back on this... I may check it out on mine just to see how it works. With the older strippers if you got one strong enough to really soften up the paint it was usually strong enough to soften the glass too. Some of them required a neutralizer also to stop the stripper.
Yes, as stated here, the key to working with liquid strippers is small areas... soften the paint and remove quickly and then remove the stripper and sand clean the surface. Don't take on too large an area because when the softened paint/stripper drys it usually turns into something as hard as concrete. Another note on this is not using metal putty knives or anything that will nick the surface. I've used the standard bondo spreaders for scraping the paint. And speaking of bondo, I'm not sure of this stripper but most strippers will soak into bondo and soften it, it is a good idea to keep the stripper away for any bondo and if you do get into it, grind out any discolored areas and re-work the body work.
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