I am looking at the trailing arm to frame bolt on my 1969 and I cannot see how the right, passenger, side bolt can possibly slide out of the way to remove. I see no room, nor with my big hands, physical access to the bolt to remove or install.
If there is some trick to this please fill me in!!
(PS, I have in the past completely removed and reinstalled the axles and transfer case on my Jeep and that was a piece of cake compared to what I see trying to remove the trailing arm frame bolts!)
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
The T-arm bolts should come in from the center of the car, pointing to the outside. Depending on how the brake lines are routed, they can be a little tricky to get out, but as long as there is no rust involved, they WILL slide out without too much force. The frame reinforcement/gusset in that area can cause issues, but....if the bolt is not seized, it will come right out past the gusset. Of course, if there is rust on the bolts, or between the bolts and the t-arm bushings, you could be in for the fight of yer life.... Best course of action is to hold the t-arm up with a jack stand(or something similar) so there is no weight on them. With the nut loosened all most all the way off, the easiest way is to use a wobble socket and extension on the nut....and a good sized mallet/hammer.....and a dang good aim.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
I recall when replacing the bolts on dad's 76, i ended up having to take a receiprocating(saws-all) saw to get it out. Was rusted up fairly good. Took the shims out(the thinner ones kinda crumbled) and it gave enough room to get a long blade in there to cut the bolt. It took a little while to get it cut because not being able to get the saw all the way onto the bolt, only the end of the blade(the longer 7 or 8 inch metal cutting blades), but i finally won, the bolts were rusted up in the bushings... but if you can drive them out, that would be the better route to go... still, had to drive what was left of the bolt out of the bushings, but was a lot easier on the shop floor....
StingrayJim NCM Lifetime Member #1936
Stingray's '76 StingrayJr's '78 Lil Red '94 (click each one to see a bigger version)
I first want to thank the viewers and the replies to my post. The replies were very informative and gave me the courage to attempt what looked impossible. I really do not think the trailing arm front bolts were ever removed, judging from their appearance.
After many sprays of PB Blaster I attempted to remove the tiny cotter pins that had rust and dirt covering them. To my amazement, after finessing the little buggers I was able to get both sides cotter pins out, no small feat. The castile nuts started to turn after using a wrench and hammer to persuade them along. I loosened the nuts enough to try to tap the bolts to see if they budged and to my surprise they slid! I still do not see how my big mitts will reach in the recesses of the frame and gussets to grab a hold of the bolts to remove and then re-install.
I am spraying PB Blaster on the remaining components that will need to be removed to allow full removal of the arms.
My thoughts are to order a fully rebuilt arm and bearing and rotor assembly and use mine as core returns. Any suggestions on a good source for this, or is there another solution? I am not that far from Bair's Corvettes in Linesville, PA, they are a possibility as well as other catalog sources.
Vette(s): 1974 Coupe 358ci 4 speed
Black w/Medium Saddle interior w/79 custom leather seats
Bair's has the option of trading your used parts for parts they have already rebuilt and in stock to save you time. They will also inspect your parts to be sure they are rebuildable and reject them if not.
Best to call and talk to them.
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