Vette(s): SOLD - "The Toy" - 1970 Convertible SOLD - "The Beast" - 1990 ZR-1 (#682) "BLKBRRD" - 1978 Trans Am, 400ci/285hp, 4 spd, Black w/black interior, Hurst t-tops
I've rebuilt calipers a couple of times, and while it isn't that difficult the first time takes a little longer. Besides caliper rebuild kits you'll need a honing tool and lots of brake cleaner. But I'd recommend just popping for the stainless steel sleeved calipers and spend the time you save enjoying a drive in the fall weather.
____________________________________ Jim Olson "The Toys"...!!! Save the Wave!
Vette(s): 1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops, Going to remain as Stock as possible. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vetts Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!!
Yup. Stainless Steel is the way to go. Did mine in 2007. Still got great brakes to this day !!
You can get a front and rear kit fairly inexpensively. I personally prefer the o-ring type. That will include the pistons, o-rings, boot/seals and caliper half o-rings. You can buy a deluxe kit that includes the springs also but those are easily cleaned and reused. If you have any luck at all when you split the caliper halves you may find that they are already sleeved from a previous change out, in that case a little work with some emery cloth should satisfy that cleanup. It's a good idea to upgrade to stainless brake lines at this time but if your existing lines are OK that will save you another can of worms. no special tools needed unless you change out the brake lines. flaring wrenches are a must. The boot seals will pop out easily with a screwdriver and can be reseated with the light touch of a mallet. it's also a good time to paint the calipers (paint about $40). aceinthehole2009-10-14 09:12:20
Jimmy B. Just can't wait to get on the road again.
Vette(s): 1972 Corvette Coupe. 350/200 Automatic with PS/PB/PW and A/C. Beautiful Bryar Blue. Unmolested original. Shooting for NCRS Top Flight someday.
I just started mine on the '72 and opted for the O-ring conversion. ORdered sets from Bair's but haven't received 'em yet. I'm a little nervous about my purchase though. Check out the advice I got from a seasoned veteran on another forum on something to look out for when doing this conversion:
Quoted from another forum:
"One word of caution when converting your SS sleeved calipers to the O ring style. Before installing the O rings onto the new pistons install the piston into its bore and be certain it goes all the way down at least flush with the surface, these pistons are a bit longer and sit deeper into the bore, when any of the remanufacturers machined the bore larger to install the SS sleeve some bores are left with a "step" at the bottom of the bore. This step was not an issue ever with original pistons but is with the new style O ring pistons. Once seen the step can easily be removed with a dremel bit but again you need to be very cautious as if you hit the ID of the SS sleeve, you just ruined it. There are many variations of this depending on the rebuilders. I have seen many different heights of the step and some non-concentric sleeve to bore calipers which are harder to clean up . So save yourself a lot of grief and check yours first!"
Anyone else ever run into this on an O-ring conversion?
I just converted to the o-ring pistons a few months ago, luckily I got the conversion kit from the same company that sleeved my calipers. The job was not very difficult, I had a seal remover and seal driver on hand (for removing and installing the dust boot easily). Converting to stainless braided hoses is also a good idea since you have the calipers off. I rebuilt the master cylinder also since the brake system had to be bled anyway (the kit was $40 or $50).
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