When applying brakes on my 1976 corvette there is a popping noise coming from the left front brake area. Any ideas as to what is causing this? I bought the car earlier this year with less than 55,000 original miles.
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.
Take your time, keep your eyes peeled and mind open. IF you do it, do it ALL. It may cost you a bigger amount of money up front, but in the long run SAVE you lots of time and Money. Just depends on what the problem is. The problem may present itself as you begin the disassembly.
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Biggest problem with the upper control arms is getting them OFF the car to begin with....NOT a fun job...unless you don't have a shroud on the radiator. Once they are off, the bushings can be tough to remove from the arms sometimes, depending on rust/corrosion. I just bang them out with a fairly large hammer, but others have other, not-harmful-to-your-hands methods.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Thanks for all the info. I have access to a vertical press which should work. I agree with the shroud in place, it doesn't leave a lot of room. If I do it, I'm going to replace everything, bushings, bald joints, etc.
Rebuilding the front end on my car was the hardest thing I've done to it - and that includes rebuilding the motor! But it is do-able. Ask lots of questions on here so you can avoid doing things the hard way. I made too many mistakes. I know some people have had good luck using presses getting the old bushings out and new ones in, but I did not. There was one control arm that I had particular problems with and I ended up taking it to an alignment shop that caters to guys like us with cars like ours and he got the old out and new in very easily and charged me like $20. I wished I had just had him do all of them.
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: firstname.lastname@example.org, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Vette(s): 1981 Blue Ice Met. w/pearl ghost flames
3.45 Dana 44.
Yup, getting the old rubber bushings out is a pain the arse. I rebuilt the front and rear suspension on mine back in 2001. Lots of bloody knuckles and cursing going on. Not to mention the tools that grew wings and flew across the garage.
I used poly bushings instead of rubber. Much easier to install. I have yet to hear a squeak from them. 13 yrs. now and they are still holding up great.
GEN III 5.7L "LS6" Engine swap TKO500 5 spd.
3.54 Dana 44
'69 "N11" Sidepipes Borgeson Steering Box Born 8/1981
Vette(s): 1981 Corvette Two-Tone Claret color, 4 spd,
Sarge81 said: Yup, getting the old rubber bushings out is a pain the arse. I rebuilt the front and rear suspension on mine back in 2001. Lots of bloody knuckles and cursing going on. Not to mention the tools that grew wings and flew across the garage.
I dream about that often.....I'll continue that dream!
I don't feel like creating any new cuss words.
My front end rebuild was also accomplished between Christmas and New Year's. Christmas 2013 to New Year's 2015.
Of course I let my project get way out of hand. Be careful, it's real easy to keep removing parts.
Vette(s): 1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops, Going to remain as Stock as possible. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vetts Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!!
chevynut said: Not sure what the last two posts imply.
When you watch a movie or watch somebody working, you eat popcorn and drink a soda!!!!!!
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