I have a bad rear yoke that I am replacing on my 68. The yoke snap ring has worn away and I was /am getting vibrations while driving.
I removed the spare tire and cover and leafe spring. While I was removing the half shaft I ran into difficulties removing it from the Wheel Spindle U-Joint Flange -- the bolts had been previously rounded off.....which is probable the reason this was not fixed in the past.
I am not sure what to do, the heads are really close to the flange so I can't get in there with vice grips -- even if I could its so rusted it wouldn't work. I think I want to remove the wheel hub and bring it to macine shop to be drilled out --- but I don't know what to do and need advice.
I bought this car to learn on so its all new to me - can someone advise me on what to do?
I tried to use a heavy duty clamp to remove the u-joint in place -- no go, I bent the clamp. I think I need to remove the entire hub and bring it to a shop to be drilled out - just don;t know how to do it.
wow, there's a delima.... suppose if it were me, i would probably try to drill off the heads of the bolts while on the car, with the spring off, you can let the trailing arm extend down a little to allow a little more room to access the bolt heads, rotating the half shaft/wheel to an good spot to get to the bolts.. otherwise, if you are intent on taking off the hub, you won't be able to with the spindle flange still on the spindle... it won't fit through the hole on the trailing arm(been there/done that when i replaced bearing and went ahead and assembled the hub assembly on the bench(torqued up the nut and everything... was sooo proud, then.. uh oh.. :) ) Not sure if you can get one of those rounded bolt/nut extractors, sears i think has them, they look like a socket with a helical cut inside that grips into the bolt head... let me find a link...
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
SOAK the bolts in WD40, PB Blaster, Zep 45, or any good penetrating oil. Then, see if you can "persuade" a smaller 6 point socket onto the bolts. I think those are 5/8", right? Might be able to sneak a 15mm or 16mm socket on there, and bust them loose. Otherwise, it's drill time.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Vette(s): 1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops, Going to remain as Stock as possible. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vetts Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!!
What Joel says, and a few words of encouragement would be in order !!!
Thanks guys. I went to sears hardware and picked up another set of rounded bolt extractors â€“ this time I found one that was/is deep set and I actually got these bolts out ! the heads are perfectly rounded and buggered to all hell.
The set I had utilizes a 7/8th bolthead for leverage, but the flat part of the bolt would ride against the spindle flange â€“ these new ones are deep set enough that the 7/8th head extends out beyond the flange. I have the half shaft off and I am ordering new bolts from Ecklers - $11 for a setâ€¦..not bad. Thanks for the feed back.I am grateful that I do not have to pull the entire hub.
I was only going to repair the drivers side â€“ now that I see how much work this is, Iâ€™ll also order a new differential yoke for the passenger side and replace the u-joints. I have been speaking with Cthulhu as I have never done this before, didnâ€™t want to pester him with yet another question so I posted here.
Today I need to go out and get the darn differential case open â€“ those two bolts that connect the case to the cross member are giving me hell. I got one out but have no leverage on the other. I soaked it last night in penetrating oil â€“ I might hit sears hardware for a new ratchet, I need more leverage (even if itâ€™s a pipe). Thanks again .
Vette(s): 1969 daytona conv. all original 350 350 380 4 sp w/air..and hard top
I am glad these worked,,haven't seen them actually work..I have the sockets that have actual teeth in them that cut into the nut or bolt head, they are meant for exhaust work..I know Sears sells them but they do not warranty them if they strip off the teeth..they were the only Sears tools I had..glad this type worked..did you use an air gun or by hand..some need the impact to really grab right..sounds like you are going to town on this thing! oh and look for a ratchet that has a pivoting head or maybe a bent handle style..they do save the knuckles when the bolts finally break loose..and you can get into tighter places to apply that needed leverage..maybe a fine tooth also..and the list goes on! Next thing you know you will have a truck pulled up to the house every week!
I had picked up the breaker bars in all sizes at Sears hardware. The 1/4 was a touch of a waste since it was only a couple inches longer than my regular - but I guess its good not to destroy the gears in the ratchet.
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