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7/5/10 12:11pm - Original Message: 'U-JOINT???'
tinbender
Former Member
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edgwood, MD - USA

Vette(s):
1975 convertible,with the hard top and power streering.it a 350 L48 with auto trans. the color is light blue.

Joined: 11/1/2007
Posts: 736
 I have been going over past posts trying to figure out what type of u-joints to get.I seen where folks have reconmended different types,most of these are beefy(I only have a stock 165hp for nowCry).And with the way things are going for now it looks like it be that way for awhile.So what I asking is will the type of u-joint that Advance Auto,Pep Boys,and Auto Zone work for now?I know I can order them thur a corvette vendor,but if the above mentioned will work .Also I didnt see in any of the post witch is better the ones you have to grease or sealed.
                          Thanks Rick
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7/5/10 12:52pm - Reply: 'U-JOINT???'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19448
The ones with NO grease fitting are better, imho. The drilling of the joint does weaken it, even for everyday, low horse applications. The solid ones do cost a bit more, but not really enough for that to be a deal breaker.
My advice, if you want to get them from Pep-Gurls/Autozone, etc., is to have your old ones with you to match them up....this will save several trips to the parts house to get the correct ones.

I prefer the "Brute Force" branded joints made by NEAPCO, but that's just me. Spicer brand u-joints are fine, too, and I think that's the more common brand in most parts places.


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7/5/10 2:00pm - Reply: 'U-JOINT???'
VetteSpecialties
Former Member
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Mounds View, MN - USA

Vette(s):
70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe

Joined: 5/24/2007
Posts: 1031
I agree with Joel.  I would not use the greaseable ones no matter what HP.  Spicer is the brand that most quality places carry. 

Larry


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7/6/10 11:01pm - Reply: 'U-JOINT???'
yostusota
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York, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1969 daytona conv. all original 350 350 380 4 sp w/air..and hard top

Joined: 5/18/2010
Posts: 1518
The way I look at parts is what brand are they and where are they made. grease or no grease only matters on horsepower and durability.  I have put the grease kind in my car only because I like to be able to grease them.. I have replaced alot of no greasers over the years..if  you are not pushing major horsepower you don't need the no greasers..avoid the store brand parts from the ones you mentioned..advance carries the neapco brute force and the standard greaser also. 10-16 bucks. They use the manufacturer catalog to make sure the u joint will be the right one also..but I always take them out and mic them to make sure the ones I get are right anyaway.That's where I got mine and they work great so far--I am not that nice to them either.LOL
Rich

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7/7/10 8:45pm - Reply: 'U-JOINT???'
tinbender
Former Member
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edgwood, MD - USA

Vette(s):
1975 convertible,with the hard top and power streering.it a 350 L48 with auto trans. the color is light blue.

Joined: 11/1/2007
Posts: 736
Thanks for the input guys,I'm going to get the U-joints at an independet auto parts place.And I ordered the strut(2) I figure I would change them both.Another weekend job.This summer hasn't been kind to Ol BluOuch.But I'll hang in there I got a little over 2 months before my show season starts.
                            Rick


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7/7/10 9:01pm - Reply: 'U-JOINT???'
philip
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Marana, AZ - USA

Vette(s):
1982 Silver Blue

Joined: 4/8/2010
Posts: 104
I like Spicer and used to use the non greasable type. When I had the drive shaft made for the Nova (450hp) the shop stated the u joints never break in the cross, only at the trunnion and that part is hollow even on the non greasable type.

 Most u joints are installed incorrectly. The procedure tends to push the ears the cups press into out of shape. If left that way the u joint life will be greatly reduced. After installing the cups and clips tap the base of the yoke with a hammer to allow the ears to release the pressure on the cups. When installed properly there should be no drag on the joint at all. Remember it is a bearing and should move freely.

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