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1/24/11 9:01am - Original Message: 'u-joints'
scrappy78
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enterprise, AL - USA

Vette(s):
1978 silver anniversary vette l-48

Joined: 6/27/2010
Posts: 63
hey guys
 what type of grease should i use for the half shaft u-joints
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1/24/11 1:17pm - Reply: 'u-joints'
yostusota
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York, PA - USA

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1969 daytona conv. all original 350 350 380 4 sp w/air..and hard top

Joined: 5/18/2010
Posts: 1518
I use mobile one full synthetic on my stuff and the few times I do need it here at work.
Rich

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1/24/11 1:53pm - Reply: 'u-joints'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

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Real u-joints don't have grease zerks...
That being said, I would assume any quality, name brand chassis grease should be fine.


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1/25/11 7:30am - Reply: 'u-joints'
lukesvette Lifetime Member
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HOWELL, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.

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Don't pound on those puppies too hard!! Solid u joints are much stronger than those with grease passages...

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1/26/11 12:52pm - Reply: 'u-joints'
VetteSpecialties
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Mounds View, MN - USA

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70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe

Joined: 5/24/2007
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I agree.  If you have grease zerks, they are incorrect and much weaker.  Most U-joints last a lifetime without greasing.

Larry


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1/26/11 1:01pm - Reply: 'u-joints'
yostusota
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York, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1969 daytona conv. all original 350 350 380 4 sp w/air..and hard top

Joined: 5/18/2010
Posts: 1518
I tend to agree with these cars now that I have beat one for a while..I think I have a bent one on the right rear..it bound up real bad when I machined the rear rotors..actually moved the wheel up and down..so I will be replacing mine with solid ones..with mobil 1 synthetic grease in them..
Rich

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1/26/11 11:56pm - Reply: 'u-joints'
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Duncanville, TX - USA

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#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

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With the rear trailing arm/tires/wheels hanging down like that, Rich, the u-joint will bind, and cause it the move the assy up/down like that. It's the nature of the beast. Some are worse than others, too. Not that you may not have a bad joint, just throwing that out there as info for those who may not know.
That's why we normally don't recommend running the car in gear with the rear up in the air.
I totally prefer solid u-joints for anything, but especially my car! As Larry said, they really don't need any additional grease over their useful lifetime. Seems like the ones that do have the grease zerks always get someone that squirts too much grease in them, and it blows the seals....which makes them fail sooner. Not to mention the hole going thru them does weaken them somewhat. I've always used the "Brute Force" u-joints, and haven't had an issue with them at all.


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1/27/11 1:28am - Reply: 'u-joints'
yostusota
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York, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1969 daytona conv. all original 350 350 380 4 sp w/air..and hard top

Joined: 5/18/2010
Posts: 1518
I understand the bind deal..with u joints only able to do 3 degrees of angle before binding..this is only the passenger side and it is something that is violent..movement up and down about 4 inches!..and it is timed..when I turned it by hand it was once every turn not 4..when the u joint was at a certain point..I marked it and it only did it at one point in the revolution..which points to one of the trunions being bent..I machined the rotors by removing the outside shaft bolts on the PS..it would have been impossible to machine them on the car without doing so..I machined the DS first and when I turned on the machine the car almost jumped off the lift! Talk about a OH #@#@ moment!..this was before I knew it was binding so bad...since this was a new u joint I didn't think it was bad but know otherwise now..thought it was a shaft issue..these were just replaced about 3k ago..junk!...by the previous owner..I am another person against grease style u joints!.I like the brute force brand as that's what I will replace them all with..
Richyostusota2011-01-26 23:25:13

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1/30/11 11:30pm - Reply: 'u-joints'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
This discussion is interesting....about five years ago my rear end grenaded on me.  I had it rebuilt by a local Corvette shop and at the same time I replaced all six u-joints.  The owner of the shop strongly recommended I go with American-made Spicers that are the same as stock but with the addition of zerks. He told me about many problems he had experienced with the solid originals.  Seems like there might be two schools of thought here -- perhaps his comments were a function of the wet climate we have in the Pacific NW.  No problems with mine yet, but not many miles on them and I don't reef on them too hard anyway.  

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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1/31/11 12:27am - Reply: 'u-joints'
yostusota
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York, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1969 daytona conv. all original 350 350 380 4 sp w/air..and hard top

Joined: 5/18/2010
Posts: 1518
I think you have the answer in your post..that you don't beat on them to hard..reef..spell check..if you don't run them all that hard and don't pump a tube of grease in them all the time they will last...I beat mine..wait for the clutch I am getting and then watch those open crosses explode! I got rid of the bent ones on the PS.. still got a few left to do..but will do soon..I can see weather being a factor..also some u joints have zerks on the end of the cap and not in the middle of the cross..some claim to not have the same size hole in there as the other style..not sure if its true but maybe it is..I guess since you had a shop do yours then the warranty is something you got..some have a lifetime warranty ..I think for 12 bucks for a brute force and I am done.
Richyostusota2011-01-30 21:29:56

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1/31/11 9:15am - Reply: 'u-joints'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19449
There is a passage in Dave McClellan's book on u-joints I always thought was interesting. While testing driveline components for the "new" C4 gen cars, they were having issues with u-joint failures. In the end, they discovered that the grease seals were allowing moisture into the joints, and then corrosion took over fairly quickly, then the joints would fail. The solution was longer seals made from better materials. The use of grease-able joints was never explored or considered.
Everyone has their own personal theories on what works best. In a lot of cases, the joints with the holes thru them are not an issue. In reality, 99% of people with grease-able joints either never actually grease them, or they overdo it, and pop the seals.
It's really 6 one way, 1/2 dozen the other....I say tamater, you say tomater...


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Joel Adams
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1/31/11 10:29am - Reply: 'u-joints'
sundevil74
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Leavenworth, KS - USA

Vette(s):
MM Red 1971 T-top,LS5,4-speed, black leather C5 seats, Hooker sidepipes. Previous: 64 Coupe, 65 Roadster L76 / N14

Joined: 1/24/2007
Posts: 426
After much research on the aforementioned subject (as I sit here stroking the new whiskers on my chinny chin chin), I've replaced all six with solid SPICERs.  Geek  Found the zerk type were prone to over lubing (thus poping the seal) and WEAKER than the solid joints.  Have had no problems.  Price was not a big deal.

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1/31/11 10:40am - Reply: 'u-joints'
yostusota
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York, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1969 daytona conv. all original 350 350 380 4 sp w/air..and hard top

Joined: 5/18/2010
Posts: 1518
I agree that price between the two really isn't a big deal..I will look for the old joint that was bent..it wasn't an original part so I am not sure if I kept it..if I did I will see if I can find the bad spot in it..I don't think mine were on long enough to fail from wear or water..when I first got the car it shifted pretty hard..not so much now..since the binding is gone now I have to replace the others also then I will feel better driving it..interesting history Joel..
Rich

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My first parade at Carlisle 2010
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