Hello all!
I'm new to this forum... although i've not posted anything up to now, its been full of really useful stuff- you guys are doing a damn fine job! I've had my 1980 for about 8 months now, and feel its time to actually start getting through some of those niggling little electrical problems! Does anyone know a reliable way of testing power door lock actuators/servos off the car? My locks did work when i bought her, but they gave up a few months ago. One thing that's puzzled me is that when they were working, it was only "on the button", i.e opening the drivers door with the key didn't activate the passenger side and vice-versa, even though both sides worked from either lock button once inside the car. First thought this was just the way it was supposed to be - just an emergency security lock rather than proper central locking, but looking in Eckler's mag I see that they do two different types of door lock barrel, depending on whether you have power locks or not - so this suggests the whole system should work off the key?!?!
I've had the actuators out and had a good poke around inside the doors - all the levers and rods seem to be connected. The wiring's all good (i think!), and the fuse too, although you have to be a contorsionist to actually get at it! I read that the system won't work if a switch is broken, too, so I guess my questions are can someone explain exactly how the system operates, and can i eliminate problems with the switches or actuators by testing them remotely one by one? I don't want to replace more than i have to, as waiting for parts to come to the UK is a pain in the backside!

Perhaps someone's had similar troubles?
By the way, if you guys think running a vette in the states is good fun, you should try it in England - most people don't know what's hit 'em....!
Cheers

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|IMG|http://www.nottingham.ac.uk/~eaztl1/images/vette_4_sig.jpg |/IMG| Red 1980 350 auto w/ quickshsift Edelbrock intake / carb Crane Fireball cam 0 - 60 6.3s

Theo, welcome to the C3VR. just for your info, the key will not open both door at the same time (unless you have a special edition that no one else does ) From what you described, it appears that they are working correctly. Mine in my 82 CE only open one door if you use the key.
What other types of electrical problems are you having?

82dukman, thanks for confirming that - I always thought the power locks only worked on the door buttons, until I was reading thru the Eckler's catalogue and found that they sell two different types of door lock barrel kits, for with and without power locks. This made me think that there must be some sort of switch on the lock barrel that closes the circuit when u turn the key, hence operating both locks - more like a modern central locking system. Otherwise i can't see any reason why there would be two types of lock available......
Anyway, i'm happy to take your word for it, since it means they were working as they should! I tested the actuators last night, and they work fine, so perhaps i'm looking at a knackered switch as the cause of failure. I need some time to carefully check the wiring diagram and switches again, its gonna mean more driving around without door panels for a day or two!
Other electrical problems? Well, i've sorted quite a few since i've had the car, like blown instrument cluster bulbs and generally dirty connections, but there are two problems which are kind of ongoing... My cruise doesn't work - i'll post that on another thread though (get as many folks to see it as possible!) and the interior light doesn't come on when you open the door. You can override it with the light switch ok, but the door jamb switches don't seem to do anything. I know the jamb switches work, as when you open the door with the key in the ignition, the alarm buzzer sounds. I need to get a look at the light delay relay, but can i find it???!!! I've looked in the jack storage box, under the centre console and under the dash. Any ideas where it should normally be on an 80??


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|IMG|http://www.nottingham.ac.uk/~eaztl1/images/vette_4_sig.jpg |/IMG| Red 1980 350 auto w/ quickshsift Edelbrock intake / carb Crane Fireball cam 0 - 60 6.3s

Theo, not sure about your 80, but the delay timer in my 82 is behind the glovebox. I have to take out the "inner lining" of the glove box and it is on the right side, by the A pillar, and it is orange in color. Check there, I would assume yours should be there too. I'll answer the other question in that thread

yeah, strangely enough, after posting that question, i was looking at wiring harnesses in the Eckler's catalogue and noticed they distinguish between two types of dash harness with "courtesy relay on column" (if i remember correctly, 1978 Early) or "courtesy relay behind glove box" (1978 late), so that narrowed the search down a bit, and you've confirmed my suspicion! I'm going to pull out the box lining tonight and see what state the relay's in.....



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|IMG|http://www.nottingham.ac.uk/~eaztl1/images/vette_4_sig.jpg |/IMG| Red 1980 350 auto w/ quickshsift Edelbrock intake / carb Crane Fireball cam 0 - 60 6.3s

Update!
Armed with your info dukman, I had a look behind the glove box - I then realised why i've never noticed any relay back there, even when i had the dash out over the summer - someone's pinched it!! Well it's not there anyway, just a plug.
For anyone who has a similar problem (relay stealing gnomes?) or just a duff relay, the temporary fix is just bridging the two white wires as this makes the light work off the doors, but you just don't have a delay.



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|IMG|http://www.nottingham.ac.uk/~eaztl1/images/vette_4_sig.jpg |/IMG| Red 1980 350 auto w/ quickshsift Edelbrock intake / carb Crane Fireball cam 0 - 60 6.3s