Since I am replacing the tach and several items within the dash, and since I will have the lower dash out, center console and right dash pad I might as well go ahead and replace the old dash wire harness with all new.
May save a fire later on.
Over the years I have spliced wires within the dash for various reasons but now my fuse holder is getting corroded and I am having some issues.
Probably all goes back to Main Street Paint and Body in Randolph Texas that was suppose to cover my car and protect the interior, in which they did a very lousy job, when it was soda blasted. They got soda under the dash and other areas that I am still finding in the restoration.
Has anyone done this on a 68 because the 68 is a little different from most of the others of that time period.
I have been through the dash a few times before but never took on a dash harness.
Anything to beware of.
The harness that the corvette catalogs have seem to be all from the same Mfg.
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Buy the harness directly from Lectric Limited...cut out the middleman.A harness replacement is not for the faint of heart, but it can be done if you do not get in a hurry, and have lottsa patience. Take plenty of pics beforehand, label ALL connections/connectors. If you don't have one already get the AIM(Assembly Instruction Manual)...it will be a lifesaver for a harness swap.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Vette(s): 1968 Conv, 454HO,500HP-600TQ, TKO-600,3:70 HD rear,hotrod air, custom paint & suspension,1973 Ruby Red,T-top, 383 Stroker, TK)-500,frame off restro, 1977 Yellow (1 of 51 ) L-48 4 spd, 99% original.
After a fire in the engine compartment & when I took the dash off it looked like bubaville so... I replaced the entire wiring harness on my 68 a few yrs back. I decided to go with a Ron Francis which allowed me to install an ungraded fuse panel. I went to a single harness hook up behind the dash & instrument panel. So you only have to hook up one plug. The whole process took about 80 hours & I soldered each connection plus heat shrink. Also installed a solid grounding block behind the dash & hid most of the wires in the engine compartment. This is not for the average do it yourselfer. But once you are done wiring problems are a thing of the past.
Vette(s): 68 COUPE 454
HAS MOTION HOOD SCOOP, REVERSED GILLS
ZL-1 FENDER FLARES AND
MOTION REAR SPOILER, LEMAN'S GAS CAP,
RACING SPOILER. CHROME HOOKER HEADERS AND SIDE PIPES! 4 SPEED M20,
LOOKS FAST STANDING STILL !!
HI, when I did mine I would highly recommend the electrical schematic , Laminated with pictures!!
Tells where everything goes and the pictures are of the actual connectors. made things a lot easier for the first time I ever did any wiring in a car. I put in a complete harness front to back.
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