68 Silver Toy said:
Can someone help me on this. My gauge on the car is telling me there is a
discharge. Could it be a ground problem or alternator? When I put
anything on like the heat fan or headlights on it shows discharge more.
Thanks
My '69 is doing the same thing. Always points to the left. Am I running off the battery all the time?
Vette(s): 1974 L-48 Auto.
Just your basic Vette. GM crate motor w/vortec heads and intake. Crane cam. Scorpion rockers, Edelbrock carb. Lots of parts still in boxes... :(
Joined: 1/27/2013
Posts: 201
Does the meter return to zero (straight up) when you turn off the car and turn everything off?
____________________________________
"Let them that don't want none have memories of not gettin' any." - Brother Dave Gardner
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
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An amp gauge that shows a discharge all the time(while running) indicates the alternator is not putting out enough juice to carry the load. This could be because the alternator is bad, or not rated high enough amp-wise. It could also mean a bad/loose connection. I would first determine how much voltage is at the battery terminals while running, and compare that to the voltage at the alternator while running. If both readings are low(at or below 12v), I would suspect the alternator.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Vette(s): 1974 L-48 Auto.
Just your basic Vette. GM crate motor w/vortec heads and intake. Crane cam. Scorpion rockers, Edelbrock carb. Lots of parts still in boxes... :(
Joined: 1/27/2013
Posts: 201
The ammeter is essentially a voltmeter... Compares voltage at the starter connection and at the horn relay. Higher voltage at the starter shows (+) amps, and vice versa.
Adam is right on. What you can also do is connect your voltmeter at the battery with the car shut off (ignition on), note the voltage, then start the car and note the voltage again. If the voltage goes up, it's charging and the ammeter may be bad. If it doesn't change or drops a bit, you're not charging.
In the "old days" people would start the car and disconnect the battery. If the car died, it wasn't charging. I was told that with modern cars (not that C3s are modern, mind you!) pulling the battery cable while the car is running could cause voltage regulator failure. Anyone know if that's true?
____________________________________
"Let them that don't want none have memories of not gettin' any." - Brother Dave Gardner
Looks like its more electrical work for me. Thanks to all for confirming. I went out to disconnect the battery earlier and thought I'd start the car but we ran out of juice before it kicked over. I'll check out loose wires as soon as it cools off out there.
If I check the voltage at the battery, won't I always get the voltage in the battery?
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19580
Checking the voltage AT the battery without it running will only tell you how much voltage the battery is storing at that time. What you are interested in is, is there MORE than 12v there with it running? You should see at least 14v with the engine running, and no lights, or A/C, etc. on. Then check voltage AT the alternator, and see if there is MORE at the alt than there is at the battery. If there is, then you prolly have a bad connection somewhere. If the voltage is the same, your wiring is ok. Either way, if you do not see a minimum of 14v AT the alternator, engine running at around 1500 rpm, you have an alternator issue.
And...while it's true, we used to "test" alternators by disconnecting the battery, it's not a good idea....it can definitely mess up a regulator, and/or the diode trio inside the alternator. Plus, that test doesn't really tell you how much the alternator is putting out....just that it is. It's best to use a volt meter.
Oh...and no...if you want to up the ante with a higher amp alternator, there's no problem with that. 100 amp might be overkill, tho....
|UPDATED|5/13/2013 7:50:15 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Here's the scoop. 12 volts at the battery with engine off. 13 volts while running and 14 volts at the alternator while running. But the battery meter shows -30 amps and goes lower if I gun the engine.
I guess I'm in the market for an ammeter, as soon as I figure how to remove the old one and how to test it for sure.
Yes, I'm troubleshooting two problems at the same time, horn and ammeter. Don't think they're related.
Vette(s): 1974 L-48 Auto.
Just your basic Vette. GM crate motor w/vortec heads and intake. Crane cam. Scorpion rockers, Edelbrock carb. Lots of parts still in boxes... :(
Joined: 1/27/2013
Posts: 201
Yes, I'm troubleshooting two problems at the same time, horn and ammeter. Don't think they're related.
Maybe they are...
The ammeter is connected to the horn relay and the starter lug (main harness). (Black, and black/white wire if I remember.) It measures a voltage between the two leads and infers a current from the voltage differential. If you've got higher voltage at the alternator and battery when the car is running, it's charging. So there's something in common.
Remove and clean the terminations to the horn relay, and check that the lugs are securely on the wire ends.
Adam, what do you think?
____________________________________
"Let them that don't want none have memories of not gettin' any." - Brother Dave Gardner
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19580
We need to clarify the difference between an AMP meter, and VOLT meter. An AMP meter measures Current, while a voltmeter measures voltage...two different things, when discussing meters. An amp meter runs In Line with the charge...meaning the meter is wired in series with the wiring from the alternator to the battery. A voltmeter, on the other hand, simply measures voltage, so it is wired with a positive wire on one terminal, and a ground on the other terminal. A bad Amp meter can certainly drop system voltage after the alternator...if the current going thru it is actually being used up by the gauge, it will lower the available voltage at the battery. An amp meter can also not allow voltage thru it if it goes open, in which case the meter(gauge) would not move at all. I would certainly clean all of the connections, both at the horn relay, and the alternator. If no improvements are seen, then I would have to suspect a problem with the gauge itself....possibly the resistor/shunt bar on the back of the gauge. In any case, it appears the charging system IS working, it's just not able to get the full output voltage back to the battery.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Thanks everyone. And Joel for the difference between the amp and volt meter. I've ordered a new horn relay but will hold off on the ammeter guage to see if the connections or the horn relay itself were causing my ammeter problem.
There is excessive electrical tape on the wires at the terminals both at the relay and the alternator. Hate to open all that up but, I'll do what I have to.
Vette(s): 1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops, Going to remain as Stock as possible. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vetts Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!!
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rraider1 said:
It seems to me it is indicating you are running on the battery which means your generator is not putting out (by it some wine)
I had a similar problem with my 81. Got new Alternator
Vette(s): 1977 T-Top,350,Auto Black Ruby Pearl,Steeroids R&P conversion
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Something seams strange if the amp meter goes more negative as you race the engine but measured voltage goes up it seems the amp meter is hooked up backwards. when you go to put back in the new horn relay double ck the wiring hook up. and I think you should inspect what is under the tape you could have corrosion their also. With the car not running and you turn on the headlights does the meter go negative (discharge).
rraider1 said:
Something seams strange if the amp meter goes more negative as you race the engine but measured voltage goes up it seems the amp meter is hooked up backwards. when you go to put back in the new horn relay double ck the wiring hook up. and I think you should inspect what is under the tape you could have corrosion their also. With the car not running and you turn on the headlights does the meter go negative (discharge).
My new horn relay is due on Monday. In the meantime I'll check out the wiring. I like to solder everything that's going to be covered by tape. Oh Me Oh My Oh! Son of a gun I'm having fun on the Vette-o!!
Vette(s): 1974 L-48 Auto.
Just your basic Vette. GM crate motor w/vortec heads and intake. Crane cam. Scorpion rockers, Edelbrock carb. Lots of parts still in boxes... :(
Joined: 1/27/2013
Posts: 201
Adams' Apple said: We need to clarify the difference between an AMP meter, and VOLT meter. An AMP meter measures Current, while a voltmeter measures voltage...two different things, when discussing meters.
True. Except on our cars, the ammeter is not a true ammeter. It's a DC shunt ammeter. It carries only a tiny fraction of the total current going through the car's circuit, and approximates current based on differential voltage from two points. The resistor between the two points causes a voltage drop which deflects the meter one way or another...
____________________________________
"Let them that don't want none have memories of not gettin' any." - Brother Dave Gardner
Vette(s): 1977 T-Top,350,Auto Black Ruby Pearl,Steeroids R&P conversion
Joined: 10/14/2003
Posts: 1152
Ammeter.Refer to the below figure.
Troubleshooting the ammeter
circuit can be difficult.The following
applies to cars equiped with alternators.In the Chassis Service Manual there will be a simplified diagram of the
charging system similar in part to that show above.
Possibly the biggest mistake
that people make associated with the ammeter circuit is not turning the
ignition switch to either ACC or ON when trying to decide if the ammeter is
showing proper discharge.You can
perform the following test and see if it makes a diference.Start the engine and let it run for a few
minutes until the ammeter reads close to zero.Shut off the engine and with the ignition switch OFF, turn on the high
beam lights.Make a note of the ammeter
reading. Turn off the headlights.Turn
the ignition switch to ACC and again turn on the high beams.The amount of discharge shown by the ammeter
should be about twice, or more, what it was before.
By referring to the above
diagram, it can be seen that the ammeter reads the difference in voltage
between the battery and the alternator.The wire that goes directly from the battery to the alternator and
appears to short out the ammeter is a meter shunt.What the ammeter actually reads is the
voltage drop across this wire.The
resistance of this wire is about 0.1 ohm.There is no physical resistor in the circuit, the resistance is due to
the length of the wire required to get from the starter solenoid to the horn
relay around the engine bay.
The horn relay is not in the
ammeter circuit but is a convenient connection point for the alternator output
and the voltage regulator.
When the output voltage of
the alternator is greater than battery voltage, the ammeter shows a charge proportional
to the difference in voltage.When the
battery comes up to full charge, the ammeter drops to near zero.If the output of the alternator is less than
the battery voltage, as under a heavy load, the ammeter will show a discharge
proportional to the difference in voltage.
The voltage regulator is set
to have a voltage slightly higher than the fully charged voltage of the battery
so that the alternator will carry most of the vehicle loads and maintain a
slight trickle charge on the battery at all times the engine is running.Under normal conditions, the ammeter will
show a slight charge when the engine has been running for a few minutes and the
system is working correctly.
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19580
I'm shocked.... Just kiddin....this has turned into a very detailed discussion, and very informative, I'm sure. Remember, we're working on an early car here. My point being that there is a loss of charge making it back to the battery somewhere...only a few things can cause that. Bad connections/wiring, or a problem with the gauge itself. The horn relay has nothing to do with the charging system, other than being a common junction box to connect the wiring to. Of course, if the terminals on the relay are corroded, it could create a problem. The alternator in this case IS working, and the battery is being charged, although perhaps not completely, it seems. The issue is the gauge showing a discharge all the time....even tho there IS a charge getting to the battery.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
I'd Like to thank everyone for their feedback. It helps me to solve my electrical problem. I had someone check the alternator before and they said it was fine. Another person said it might be the voltage regulator. Just like the person with the '69, my battery is draining. So I'm going to have to change the alternator.
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