I replaced the engine harness on my 68. Many of the old wires had been cut.
I got the wires all in place, wiper motor, starter, etc. But when I turned the key on nothing happened. I had lights, turn signals, radio etc. but the starter would not turn over.
I have a Mean Green High Torque starter that has only two posts to wire to
I put the red wire from the new harness on the large post along with the battery hot cable and the yellow wrapped wire that also ties into the electronic distributor. I put the purple wire on the other small post. The purple wire comes off the ignition switch and gives the starter the boost when you turn the key.
I found the problem and it was that I did not have a good connection on the harness where it connects to the female part on the firewall. Once I put pressure on this connection i could turn the key and start the engine.
But it won't turn off unless I take the battery cable off.
Has my ignition switch gone bad, it was working fine before I started this engine wiring harness project??????
Any ideas, need some help!!!!! What part of the switch turns the power off to the engine. Is it the yellow distributor wire on the hot post??
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
rlu1968 said: I have a Mean Green High Torque starter that has only two posts to wire to
I put the red wire from the new harness on the large post along with the battery hot cable and the yellow wrapped wire that also ties into the electronic distributor. I put the purple wire on the other small post.
Is it the yellow distributor wire on the hot post??
Yes!! You have 12v on the coil at all times, now....same as having the key on. If the yellow wire is what powers the ignition, it cannot be on the center post of the starter, or the same post as the feed from the battery. I have to assume you changed the starter at the same time you were changing the harness? On the three terminal solenoids, the outer small terminal would have the 12v supply to the ignition when cranking. After it starts, and you let the key return to the "Run" position, the ignition feed would come from a resistor wire off of the ignition switch. You'll need to find somewhere else to run the yellow wire that is hot ONLY when the key is in the start and run positions.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Great advise. I ran a wire off the fuse panel that is hot only when the ignition is on. I tied this into the yellow wire from the distributor and also I needed a hot to the electric choke so I also tied this in with the yellow wire. Works great now. Starts and shuts off just fine. I don't know if i needed to or not, but I ran a 25 amp fuse (fuse holder) between the hot off the fuse panel and the distributor, just in case I had a short that it might blow this fuse rather than cause other problems.
I have wires to the horn relay that are always hot. Even with the ignition off, is this correct? One of the harness wires ran from the hot on the starter to the horn relay which make this hot always.
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